how to establish the first edge on your newly finished handmade knife???

J

jrpsycho

Joined
Mar 16, 2000
Messages
71
i am wondering what method most makers use when putting the first edge on a knife when it is done. i use a course stone on a lansky( a lenghty process) but it seems many others use the belt sander... i dont have the control for that yet and am wondering if there is another, easier way than what i am doing
thanks
james
 
I use a 1x30 belt sander with a fairly fine belt and then strop it..works great! I can resharpen a compleyely dull knife to shaving in under 5 min
 
James, you are right, most makers use their belt sanders to sharpen their knives. I'm not there yet either. I use the Lansky system also but a better bet would be to use a large coarse bench stone for the initial edge, I believe it would be faster than the coarse Lansky stone. Then you could finish polishing the edge with the finer Lansky stones and a rigid leather strop. I think I'll try this on my L6 hunter/utility that is nearing completion.-Guy Thomas

[This message has been edited by Silent (edited 07-27-2000).]
 
Good question!!!!! the first time that I seen another maker set the first edge with his grinder I about had a fit as it was one of my knives that he was sharpening.At that point I was setting the edge with a file.I went home and took a bad blade and kept practicing until I got it.Know I set the edge when I finish grind the blade by setting a Moran edge last this way when I am done hand sanding the edge is set and a medium or fine stone and strap is all that is needed to finish the edge......Hope this helps,Bruce

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Bruce Evans Handcrafted Knives
The soul of the Knife begins in the Fire!!!!!
Member of,AKTI#A000223 and The American Bladesmith Society
 
As another new maker (working on knife #6 now) I understand how scary that belt can be the first few times.
The trick is practice and confidence and a very worn very fine belt, plus a very light touch.
My edge setup just barely removes metal- so I have lots of time to say "Oh Sh*t" and get the blade away before any damage is done.
Long, smooth, even strokes.
If you can get a maker to show you it will be a lot easier.
Good Luck!

Dave Evans
Tenino, WA
 
I made a 15 degree reference guide which bolts to my platen. The blade doesn't contact it, but it gives me a visual reference so I never miss my angle. I take one complete pass then dip in water so blade never heats up. Then take a pass on the other side. I use a 50 grit belt and about three cycles sets the edge. I finish hand honing with a 320 DMT stone using WD-40 as a lube.

BlacksmithRick@aol.com
 
Something else you may want to try is a hard felt buffing wheel loaded with green buffing compound. after I put an edge on the blade with an extremely worn out 400 grit belt (probably well over a 1000 grit), I mirror finish the edge. Take note that you should hold the edge at as small an angle to the wheel as possible. To perpendicular will defeat the purpose. With this method you can literally go to shaving sharp in a couple of minutes. Good Luck!!

Hugh

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Scraped, burnt, sliced, smashed. AHHHH, knifemaking!!!!
 
Try an extra coarse diamond stone from Lansky, they are about ten dollars.
 
I too am a newbie maker. As with any time I learn how to sharpen using a new technique, I'll be going to the thrift store and buying a cheap kitchen knife and grinding away. If I wreck it, oh well. If I put a good edge on it, I'll do it again on another $1 knife until I get consistent results and am confident to do this on knives #4, #5 and #6.

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"Come What May..."
 
I establish the edge on a slack belt. It makes a slight convex grind that I find lasts longer than a stright grind. I grind edge up to the fineist belt. Then to a "scotchbrite" wheel and finish on the buffer. Skip the buffer and it makes a better whittler.
Later, Lynn
 
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