how to fill a cavity on a hickory haft?

foxx

foxx

Joined
Sep 5, 2010
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Actually it's not a haft, it's a bokken, both go through impact stresses. Basically I've got a worm hole that goes in makes a turn and keeps going. What can I fill it with, epoxy, wood glue, or liquid nails? Any other suggestions? This bokken is a subrito, not really made for paired use, but I still want to fill it. What if I have to bash a Zombie skull I don't want the hole to cause a problem nor do I want the filler to crack or break up. Thanks for any input.

Mods feel free to move this if you see fit. I'm not just filling a small hole in a knife scale, this is more like an axe haft problem.
 
Ive had a lot of luck useing jb weld epoxy for wood i used it on a wooden boomerang a few years ago and its still going strong but that was to join two pieces together and fill some gaps if the worm hole is really small dont know how youd get it in there . Rich
 
The wormhole is big enough to get the tip of a caulk tube in there, or just pour in wood glue. I know wood glue is strong, but I don't know if it would do well to fill a cavity. I think I could stuff a cigarette in there(if it could survive the 90 degree turn going in).
 
foxx said:
The wormhole is big enough to get the tip of a caulk tube in there, or just pour in wood glue. I know wood glue is strong, but I don't know if it would do well to fill a cavity. I think I could stuff a cigarette in there(if it could survive the 90 degree turn going in).
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Then it will work just tape off one end of the hole and fill it up try not to over fill it cause its hard to sand i know this because i used to fill a screw hole on a hawk head and over did it and let it dry had to use a file to even it out . Better to get it smooth while its still wet . Rich
 
I've shaved off excess JB weld with a razor blade. Surprisingly easy to do and leaves a decent finish.
 
LEGION 12 said:
Never thought of that was it cured when you shaved it off ?
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Yeah, like the next day. It stays somewhat pliable for a few days. JB Weld is awesome stuff. With a roll of duct tape and some JB Weld...the possibilities are endless...
 
Thanks for all the input guys. I've used JB Weld on metal before, but never wood. Is there a reason it would be better than liquid nails. Which one wouldn't break during hard use, impacts, or impacts during cold weather?
I'd like for what ever I use to fill the space, and be as strong and tough as the wood itself, and maybe even look pretty good. I'm thinking black would look best. Does JB weld come in black? Maybe the last little bit could be black epoxy?
 
I think an epoxy would flow into your hole better than something like Liquid Nails. Get an epoxy with a slow setting time to give it time to run deep inside. Add additional epoxy as necessary as it settles in.
 
Square_peg said:
I think an epoxy would flow into your hole better than something like Liquid Nails. Get an epoxy with a slow setting time to give it time to run deep inside. Add additional epoxy as necessary as it settles in.
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That's probably a good idea. You can also color clear epoxy. Just read up on it to find out what to use to add color.
 
You can paint or stain once it cures and it will dry and fill all the voids if can handle the vibrations from a car it should should be able some pretty hard impacts .
 
I fill in voids with gorilla glue or epoxy and small wood wedges driven in. Trim them off and you have the eye filled with wood on the surface and jammed full with glue or epoxy. I fill very small voids this way using toothpicks. My intent is to keep all moisture our and leave no voids for any possibility of the handle shifting.
 
Awesome info, thanks guys. The handle is mostlythe usual blond hickory, but the hole is in line with a very dark brown stripe. If I use black epoxy, and/or a wood wedge it should look like a knot. Mostly, it will fill the void, keep moisture out, and make it stronger, if it looks good that will be a plus.

When I got this, I thought the hole was only on the surface....

Subrito.jpg
 
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thunderstick said:
I fill in voids with gorilla glue or epoxy and small wood wedges driven in. Trim them off and you have the eye filled with wood on the surface and jammed full with glue or epoxy. I fill very small voids this way using toothpicks.
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That's a great idea. The soundness of epoxy with a chunk of real wood visible at the surface. The best of both worlds.
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I do something similar when repairing stripped out screw holes behind door hinges.
 
Yeah, wood flour cement with 100 grit sandings makes a good filler for color match. Maybe he could use straight epoxy for most of the hole and then cap it with cement/sandings putty. Just seems easier to do it with a plug as Thundersitck suggested. If the hole had an irregular shape then a putty might be better.
 
Square_peg said:
Yeah, wood flour cement with 100 grit sandings makes a good filler for color match. Maybe he could use straight epoxy for most of the hole and then cap it with cement/sandings putty. Just seems easier to do it with a plug as Thundersitck suggested. If the hole had an irregular shape then a putty might be better.
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This is the case Square peg, it's an irregular hole. I have other darker hickory tool handles, plenty of sandpaper. Now, do I get clear or black epoxy? Would the black epoxy even take on the color from the sawdust?
 
Just sharing what I do ... I form a wedge as close as I can to the shape of the cavity with a knife and then make the point of the wedge smaller than the cavity to help get it started easily. Fill the hole with gorilla glue or epoxy and then drive the wedge in. The wedge should be driven till it curls wood on the metal sides to get a tight friction fit. This will block also off all glue or epoxy leakage. It also forces the cavity to fill tight under pressure, by removing all air pockets, and ensures no void is left.
 
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