How to fix a sticky lock bar

[sawbone]

Hey everyone.
I was recently able to get, what was said to be, a new
Direware Solo V4 with a Damascus blade.
It looks to me like the lock up is at about 60-70%.
I thought a new frame lock knife usually had solid lock up
at about 10-20% max.
Anyhow, the lock bar on this particular knife sticks
horribly. There's been several times I've had to use something
to pry the lock bar out to disengage it in order to close the
blade. It's sticking so bad that trying to disengage it by
wedging my fingertip between the two frame halves has
actually bruised my fingertip under the nail.
Someone suggested rubbing pencil lead on the blade where
it meets the lock bar, but this only works for about 5-6 times
of lock up. Then, I'm prying it again.
Does anyone know of a way to fix this problem more permanently?
I just want the lock to disengage smoothly and easily how it should.
Anybody, please let me know.
Thanks, Chad

 

[Mossyhorn]

That's a very expensive knife. I'd send it back if it's that bad.

 

[STR]

A Sharpie marker works better than the pencil actually. I've tried both and it seems to last longer. Adjustment will mean travel in further. Every single CQC12 I ever bought was like this exactly then one day they all just worked. But the lock was all the way across the tang forever after. No play but it traveled all the way over each time everytime you opened it.

 

[Mossyhorn]

I see from the original post that you've had it for a month. Why did you wait until now to complain about it?

 

[sawbone]

I haven't had it for a month.
I've only had it for about 3-4 days now.
I haven't tried the sharpie so thanks for that idea.
I'll try that. I'm also curious as to why a new knife would
have lock up at 60-70%.
I've always found new frame lock knives to be at about
10-20%.

 

[Krav]

Crk lock up are 40 to 90 percent , not sure what is the norm for direware. Give them a call or email see what they have to say.

 

[sawbone]

Thanks STR for the Sharpie idea. It does work better than
the pencil lead.
I appreciate the suggestion Krav and have emailed them to
see if they have any ideas or thoughts on this issue.
That also puts my mind at ease for the lock up percentage.
The only problem is that if the knife needs any work, Direware
is so backed up with orders, that they won't accept this one
for repairs until the beginning of January.
I'm hoping that this just needs some serious use and break in
time and it'll just work and be fine.
Like you said about the Emerson's STR.
I'm hoping that with a little break in, one day it'll just work.

 

[sawbone]

Mossyhorn,
The Direware knives are only very expensive on the secondary
market. Unfortunately, I had to buy this one on the secondary
market so it was very expensive.
To buy Direware knives straight from Direware, they are not
very expensive at all considering how much knife you get for
the price.
You can get a new Solo V4 for $625 or an S-90 for $600.
For full Ti just add $100.
I'd say for a Solo with a Damascus blade would be no more
than $850-$1000 tops.
However, it's not very easy to order from them.
You have to wait for a personal email invitation just to place
an order. Then, there's the 12-18 month wait and a 2 knife
limit per customer.
However, in my opinion, now that I have and own this one, I
think it's all worth it to have a couple more of their knives.
These are super high quality, usable, knives that you don't have
to be uneasy to carry. Built for carry and use, and it's still a very
aesthetically pleasing knife and the Damascus on this one just
makes it like looking at a Bugatti Veyron. Beautiful Performance!
I think this is overall, one of my top 3 best knives I've ever owned.
Maybe even top 2, and that's after having it for only 3-4 days.
I just need to take care of the sticky lock bar.
I'm not complaining. Just looking for advice on how to fix this problem.

 

[dkb45]

I have found permanent marker to be an excellent solution... for about 20 openings. Mine never lasts very long, but it does usually help the stick a little after it wears off. The best ones I have used, though, are the big fat chisel tip ones. The fine tip ones don't have any give and apply to too small of an area. The fat chisel tips take one wipe across the lock face or tang (I only do either me, that could be my issue) to coat it black.