Disclaimer: taking apart your knife voids your warranty. Do so at your own risk. Do not attempt this if you are not confident in your abilities.
I recently got a Para 2 with a sticky lock in a trade. I hear this is a pretty common problem with this knife. It's actually pretty easy to fix, at least mine was.
What causes the lock to stick (at least on my knife) is the slightly rough grind on the lock face of the blade tang. When the lock engages, it gets wedged in the resulting tiny grooves that are parallel to the lock bar. To remove these grooves is fairly simple, all it entails is taking the knife apart, removing the blade and (carefully!) smoothing the lock face with sharpmaker rods.
When filing, start with the brown rod. You have to maintain the perfect flatness of the lock face. For me, I found it easiest to balance the blade upright, spyder hole up, with the end of the choil and the blade tang touching my desk. Then when you file with a sharpmaker rod, one end can touch the desk and the other end will make solid contact with the lock face and be at almost the perfect angle. Just tilt the blade a little until the rod makes positive contact with the lockface and file away.
When filing, start with the brown rod. File in circles or perpindicular to the grooves. Dont worry about taking off too much metal, the amount needed to remove the grooves will not affect the lockup. File just until the grooves are gone. Then polish with the white rods. If you have the UF rods then use them (I don't/didn't).
Then you're all set. Put your knife back together and enjoy. Oh, and don't cut yourself. You may want to tape the blade before you start.
I recently got a Para 2 with a sticky lock in a trade. I hear this is a pretty common problem with this knife. It's actually pretty easy to fix, at least mine was.
What causes the lock to stick (at least on my knife) is the slightly rough grind on the lock face of the blade tang. When the lock engages, it gets wedged in the resulting tiny grooves that are parallel to the lock bar. To remove these grooves is fairly simple, all it entails is taking the knife apart, removing the blade and (carefully!) smoothing the lock face with sharpmaker rods.
When filing, start with the brown rod. You have to maintain the perfect flatness of the lock face. For me, I found it easiest to balance the blade upright, spyder hole up, with the end of the choil and the blade tang touching my desk. Then when you file with a sharpmaker rod, one end can touch the desk and the other end will make solid contact with the lock face and be at almost the perfect angle. Just tilt the blade a little until the rod makes positive contact with the lockface and file away.
When filing, start with the brown rod. File in circles or perpindicular to the grooves. Dont worry about taking off too much metal, the amount needed to remove the grooves will not affect the lockup. File just until the grooves are gone. Then polish with the white rods. If you have the UF rods then use them (I don't/didn't).
Then you're all set. Put your knife back together and enjoy. Oh, and don't cut yourself. You may want to tape the blade before you start.