How to fix leather stains on old sheaths?

tsavickas36

tsavickas36

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Hey everyone I had a buddy ask me to clean up a couple of old Western knifes and either make a custom double stacked leather sheath or refurbish the old. His uncle had duct taped them together so I took warm soapy water and removed the adhesive but there is some staining on the leather still.

The knives came out pretty good on the buffer, leaving scratches so they still look used but I hate to send back subpar sheaths for him.

I am wondering if there is a way to strip the leather back to start fresh or is that just part of the character of the leather at this point?

Any help would be great
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Soap and water won't remove that dried adhesive.

Use denatured alcohol first and use it plentifully. Use a fresh paper towel regularly. If there is still some remaining residue, try acetone.

Do the whole sheath, as the rest probably has oil and wax on/in it.

Once cleaned and allowed to dry a couple days, apply Fiebing's tan stain, or their antique finish. Seal with a coat of Fiebing's Leather Balm with Atom Wax.
 
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tsavickas36 said:
Okay thank you I was nervous about anything more than water and soap but I will trust the expertise.
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Let us know how that turns out. I’m curious. I’d a probably started over but then you lose the cool lineage.
 
The knives look good and are displayed nicely - good job.

WD40 might help removed some of that old duct tape adhesive. I wouldn't worry about damage to leather in trying to remove the old adhesive, just make sure the damage would be even all over the sheath. When the old adhesive is removed, use a medium to dark stain over all the leather and call it "distressed".
 
I use WD40 for many things, and buy it in gallon cans, but as a solvent - no.
Ken is usually spot on in advice, but I would avoid WD40 on those sheaths. It will soak into the leather and stain it as well as smell almost forever. I also don't find it all that good of a solvent. It works fine on metal and such as a solvent for sticky stuff, but acetone or alcohol is usually quicker. It is great for protecting blades in the grinding stages.
I have a tall thin gravy pot with a lid I keep for blades. I dunk them in WD40 and put in the pot. The pot ends up with a couple inches of the oil eventually, and the blades stay ready for the next session, whether tomorrow or next year. Large blades geta heavy application of WD40 and then are wrapped in an old towel.
 
Another vote acetone, I've used it to remove crappy sealants from leather.
 
Not sure why I mentioned WD40 for use on leather - for sure NOT the right place for it.
 
Nope, Goo gone is a petroleum product/oil. It has other stuff you really don't want in the sheath leather.

Ingredients:
  • Petroleum distillates (hydrocarbon)
  • Solvents
  • Limonene (hydrocarbon)
  • Orange sweet extract
  • Aliphatic ether alcohol
  • Glycol ether
  • Solvent orange 60

The manufacturer says NOT to use Goo-gone on:
  • Silk
  • Leather
  • Suede
  • Rubber
  • Unfinished wood
  • Unsealed stone
  • Unpainted walls (drywall)
  • Faux stainless steel


Seriously,
Use 99% denatured alcohol and then acetone if needed. Rub the adhesive off the leather, not in it. Change the paper towel often and keep it wet with new clean solvent.

Let dry well.

If there is more, repeat.

If the leather shows a color difference or stains, re-dye it. I like Fiebings antique finish for the old look. Leather Balm with Atom Wax goes on all my leather as a last finish.
 
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