How to fix my round handle

[Beastchopper]

I have a condor kukri machete that's a great chopper, but the handles are dangerously round. The last thing I want a forward heavy kukri doing is rotating and deflecting on me. As you can see there are some brass pins and a brass lanyard tube oddly in the middle. I have a KO worksharp grinder. If i were to use that to thin out the sides of the handle laterally, would I screw up the wood or have a problem with the pins or hole? How would I refinish the handle once I have it to shape? I appreciate any advice, hopefully i can make it better and not worse!

 

[Beastchopper]

I have a condor kukri machete that's a great chopper, but the handles are dangerously round. The last thing I want a forward heavy kukri doing is rotating and deflecting on me. As you can see there are some brass pins and a brass lanyard tube oddly in the middle. I have a KO worksharp grinder. If i were to use that to thin out the sides of the handle laterally, would I screw up the wood or have a problem with the pins or hole? How would I refinish the handle once I have it to shape? I appreciate any advice, hopefully i can make it better and not worse!

Almost forgot....here's a pic to show what I'm working with.
http://imgur.com/gallery/n5zVYON

 

[Mr.Wizard]

 

[jpm2]

Fairly easy to flatten the sides with a file, and finish with sandpaper.

My preferred final finish for wood handles -
Strip the handle down to raw wood,
soak for an hour in ~90% rubbing/denatured alcohol,
let sit a day or so in a dry climate to completely dry of the alcohol,
apply 3 coats of tung oil, 1 week apart, fine steel wool and wipe clean before each application, and a week after the final coat.

 

[Beastchopper]

Ok, so you think I should go hand file over belt sander. I have some teak oil, but you think the tung oil would be optimal. Interesting. Also, I never would have thought to soak the wood in alcohol after filing and sanding since the handle is currently already sealed and finished. I want to finish it nicely like it is now, but I'm a little surprised at how this is turning into a big job. Thanks for the advice.

 

[jpm2]

Ok, so you think I should go hand file over belt sander. I have some teak oil, but you think the tung oil would be optimal. Interesting. Also, I never would have thought to soak the wood in alcohol after filing and sanding since the handle is currently already sealed and finished. I want to finish it nicely like it is now, but I'm a little surprised at how this is turning into a big job. Thanks for the advice.

Hand filing is slower but more precise and forgiving.

From what I understand, there's really only 2 oils for wood finishes, linseed and tung.

Teak and danish oils don't really exsist, except as marketing terms. Finishes labeled as "tung oil finish" and "tung oil varnish" are also in this category.
These type finishes can have tung or linseed oils, or something else. They will also usually contain varnish and thinner. Some might include wax.
There's just really no way of knowing what you have unless you get 100% tung or linseed oil.

I've used some of the blended stuff, and it works ok, but like 100% tung oil.
Whatever you use, don't apply too thick of coats without removing the excess within an hour or so.

I soak in alcohol to remove a thin layer of the wood's natural oil, so it will absorb the tung oil better and provide what I feel is a better bond, and more durable seal. A side benefit to the alcohol soak is removing the natural oil lightens the color, slightly offsetting the darkening effect of tung oil. This results in the wood coming out closer to its natural color.

There are some woods that are naturally very oily. and unless you need a harder more durable coat, they are just fine in the raw, it just depends on what they're exsposed to.

 

[Beastchopper]

Hand filing is slower but more precise and forgiving.

From what I understand, there's really only 2 oils for wood finishes, linseed and tung.

Teak and danish oils don't really exsist, except as marketing terms. Finishes labeled as "tung oil finish" and "tung oil varnish" are also in this category.
These type finishes can have tung or linseed oils, or something else. They will also usually contain varnish and thinner. Some might include wax.
There's just really no way of knowing what you have unless you get 100% tung or linseed oil.

I've used some of the blended stuff, and it works ok, but like 100% tung oil.
Whatever you use, don't apply too thick of coats without removing the excess within an hour or so.

I soak in alcohol to remove a thin layer of the wood's natural oil, so it will absorb the tung oil better and provide what I feel is a better bond, and more durable seal. A side benefit to the alcohol soak is removing the natural oil lightens the color, slightly offsetting the darkening effect of tung oil. This results in the wood coming out closer to its natural color.

There are some woods that are naturally very oily. and unless you need a harder more durable coat, they are just fine in the raw, it just depends on what they're exsposed to.

Thanksfor going into deta

Hand filing is slower but more precise and forgiving.

From what I understand, there's really only 2 oils for wood finishes, linseed and tung.

Teak and danish oils don't really exsist, except as marketing terms. Finishes labeled as "tung oil finish" and "tung oil varnish" are also in this category.
These type finishes can have tung or linseed oils, or something else. They will also usually contain varnish and thinner. Some might include wax.
There's just really no way of knowing what you have unless you get 100% tung or linseed oil.

I've used some of the blended stuff, and it works ok, but like 100% tung oil.
Whatever you use, don't apply too thick of coats without removing the excess within an hour or so.

I soak in alcohol to remove a thin layer of the wood's natural oil, so it will absorb the tung oil better and provide what I feel is a better bond, and more durable seal. A side benefit to the alcohol soak is removing the natural oil lightens the color, slightly offsetting the darkening effect of tung oil. This results in the wood coming out closer to its natural color.

There are some woods that are naturally very oily. and unless you need a harder more durable coat, they are just fine in the raw, it just depends on what they're exsposed to.

Thanks for going into detail about all my why questions. I ended up having a chance to do it last night. With 2 babies around, trips to the hardware store and time to sand handles is pretty limited. I used the file and sand paper. It was kind of slow going. I might not have taken enough off. The 3 brass pins take a while to file down and concentration to file them and not gouge out the wood next to them. Well, I didn't soak it in alcohol and i did use the "teak oil". Like you said, no list of ingredients there. I put 3 coats on with a paper towell. I'm sure i put it on too thick but i sanded it a little after applying. I don't mind the dark color, makes the shiny pins pop. I'll have to use it tomorrow before I decide to try to carefully file the pins down more. I'll see how it feels. Thanks again.
http://imgur.com/gallery/OPl8ipN

 

[jpm2]

Thanks for going into detail about all my why questions. I ended up having a chance to do it last night. With 2 babies around, trips to the hardware store and time to sand handles is pretty limited. I used the file and sand paper. It was kind of slow going. I might not have taken enough off. The 3 brass pins take a while to file down and concentration to file them and not gouge out the wood next to them. Well, I didn't soak it in alcohol and i did use the "teak oil". Like you said, no list of ingredients there. I put 3 coats on with a paper towell. I'm sure i put it on too thick but i sanded it a little after applying. I don't mind the dark color, makes the shiny pins pop. I'll have to use it tomorrow before I decide to try to carefully file the pins down more. I'll see how it feels. Thanks again.

Good to see you making an improvement instead of just living with it, so many don't.
Round sided handles are a no-no on choppers for me too.

When I modify something, I do a little at a time, stopping for a few days or weeks to use it as is. There's been times I stopped short of what I originally planned because it worked so well, and going further I felt would be negative. I can always continue on later if I change my mind.
The times I went too far were always using powered equipment. I never get in a hurry anymore.