How to fix pinned Chiruwa handles

oldschool45

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Oct 15, 2007
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1,211
This is a quick fix for Chiruwa type handles.

The M43 is the one from this DOTD http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=762865

There are a lot of things going on here but I think t is safe to attribute it to the dry climate in Reno Nevada drying out the laha. Under heavy or in my case inexperienced chopping the horn handle were coming away from the Tang and the pins were drifting a bit. Not a big deal for a wall hanger but unnerving when you are swinging a 2 pound 19" long razor. The first picture is of the separation of the handles from the tang. It looks worse than it actually is because I have pried the scales away from the tang to give me more room to "apply" the "fix."
In the second pic you have the glue-up. I basically dumped and worked Gorilla Glue between the scales and the tang. Since Gorilla Glue expands at such a high rate your really need to clamp it up or it would have pushed the scales clean off the pins and tang. I think a tight warp of saran wrap or spring clamps would have worked. 6" Wilton Vice with rubber teeth guards is certainly optional.
The next 2 shots are just there to show how much that "crap" expands. To give you some idea how much force is at play here there was the faintest crack where the pommel was attached and the glue pushed though and left a pea sized bubble of expanded glue on the outside of the pommel. That is beyond what it did around the one pin shown. I glued this up in the morning around 8:30am and the "after" pictures were taken around 4pm. I suggest leaving it glued up compressed overnight. Side note here I probably just prevented myself from re-handling this one in the future as them horns ain't coming off!
Last pic is after I scrapped and sanded the excess glue off.
Next post will show the handles sanded to 4000grit after I tested the integrity of the glue up.

Additional notes here. Horn is neat stuff aside from that fact that it stinks to high heaven when you sand it. It works an awful lot like dymondwood or other synthetic handle material. I could shape this handle anyway I wanted to and could probably carve it fairly easily. This fix would also work with wood handles or if, sacrilege, you wanted to use say canvas micarta (which isn't actually a bad idea).
I'm going to do a similar work-in-progress on the re-handle I'm doing on my 12" CAK too.
Hope this helps some people re-handle or fix their Khuks.
Ray
 

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Finished product and test results. Nothing worked loose after hacking through that branch.
 

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Nice job OS. I live in the high desert at 7,200 ft where wood handles can crack just from being exposed to our dry air. Good to have a fix it post available when the inevitable happens. :thumbup:
 
Oldschool45,
That is a fine job you did there. I love gorilla glue and use it often myself. Im sure those scales are not going any place now. Again great job and thanks for posting.
 
hi os
thats some very usefull info there thanks for showing ive a similar glue called sumo glue dose the same job as gorilla used mine to rehandle a partial tang
khukuri its now solid as a rock .
mick:thumbup:
 
Hey Killa do you recognize this?
Eventually even the above fix gave out there was just too much of something between the tang and the horn and the handles started separating again.
This time I left the bolsters and pommel intact and pried the handles off and pressed the pins out. I used the handle scales as models to cut the cocobolo set out of a 3/4" board and removed everything (epoxy???) down to the metal on the tang.The pin holes I opened up from 1/4" to 3/8" because I bought the wrong size dowel and didn't want to wait. The dowel/pins are 3/8" Birch wood.
I used temporary wood pin to hold the scales while I glued it up (gorilla glue again). And I sanded the top and bottom of the tang which revealed a noticeable gap. So I mixed some cocobolo dust with some 2 part epoxy and filled the gaps in (also seen around the pins).
I did the handle shaping with a 2" diameter sanding drum chocked up in my drill press. Then sanded from 220grit to 1500grit by hand, saturated it with Satin Tung oil and finished with beeswax(Thanks for that idea Jay).
The handles are thicker than the originals but fit me better and the 1500grit finish isn't as slippery as you would expect even wet (I've been chopping bottles of water).
Thanks for looking
 

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OS... I like that fix even better than the horn one. I'm going to re-handle my M43 before shipping it off to Afghanistan for my girlfriend's son to use. I was thinking of using a canvas micarta for grip material. I'm still stumped on what to use for pins... wood might work... but I think that metal would be better.

Thanks for some great tips/ideas.
 
Finished product and test results. Nothing worked loose after hacking through that branch.

and it never ever will with Gorilla Glue on the job, that stuff is the shiznit! :thumbup:

Another great How To Oldschool45! Thanks a bunch for lending us your expertise. :)
 
Thanks Warty the original horn handle had too much of something on the tang and handle scales when it separated the second time it wasn't the gorilla glue that gave out as much as that "something" shearing off again. The horn scales came off intact so I could have just cleaned everything up and re attached them and been done.

ACStudios, you can get delrin or micarta pin material look up Jantz supply http://jantzsupply.com/cartease/item-detail.cfm?ID=MI223 I don't like killing all the handle work hitting it with a hammer and peening pins so I prefer adhesives. The Japanese have been using bamboo pins on knives for centuries and wood has a lot of fibers in it. My best guess is that anything that shears wood pins off a knife like this is going to be deliberate anyway you look at it.

Now that my office is moved I have time and it has cooled off here I can spend time in my shop without starting an IV bag of saline solution first:p Now we just need more rain so I can burn some of this wood I've been chopping:(
 
and it never ever will with Gorilla Glue on the job, that stuff is the shiznit! :thumbup:

Another great How To Oldschool45! Thanks a bunch for lending us your expertise. :)

You're not kidding.

I use GG to attach a tomahawk head to a haft. After Robin Hooding it (second thrown 'hawk splits the handle of the one already in the target) I had to drill, grind, curse and swear for hours to get the bit of haft left in the eye out, and grind all the crap out of the eye so I could rehaft it.
 
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