How to form kydex, and get supplies

Joined
Jun 21, 1999
Messages
752
I am taking my first steps in making kydex sheaths to go with my knives. I have been heating kydex with an open flame and getting it to mold (more or less) to the shape of the knife, but nowhere near the accuracy of the ones I see in the magazines (or on Chiro's home page). I am also wondering where to get the "sex screws" used in kydex construction.
Any tips on working with kydex or supply sources would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
HappyCAt

 
Ah, HappyCat, you've come to the right place!
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I just wrote a bunch ofthis to Dr. Lathe not too long ago, so going back a week or two may prove helpful, too. First off, ditch the open flame. You can heat Kydex in your oven, and for regular-sized knives a toaster oven from a pawn shop is nice since your significant other won't be pissed off at all the formaldehyde gas in the kitchen! In other words, good ventilation is of paramount importance, and wear good masks when doing the sanding work, too.
Anyway, oven temp should be about 200-225. Use foam padding for the molding process, which works most of the time, although I am having a hell of a time getting a good mold on a Reeve Mountaineer II right now. May be the Concealex I'm using, too. We'll see. In any case, play with foam padding and temps and you'll get a good balance worked out that works for you.
Best place to get Kydex is through a local plastics distributor. The 0.093" (3/32") thickness works for almost every knife, except for the real thin ones. You buy in 4'x8' sheets, which is plenty for tons of knives! If you want a little Concealex to experiment with, let me know and we can arrange something (I have 4'x8' of that in black, too).
0.093" in 4x8 will run around $100 plus whatever taxes. Most convenient size to have it cut into is 2'x2', especially if you have a table saw you can cut smaller pieces off with. Just personal experience. Cut more off than you thought you'd need and use a hacksaw to cut to rough shape. Use a dremel or belt grinder to do final shaping. Get the mold right first, then drill holes and stuff (this rule isn't absolute, but you need to learn the basics first). I buy my aluminum Chicago screws from a Canadian company, but I am fast becoming partial to the steel ones (black coated) that Blade-Tech sells. I think a set (screws and posts) is $20 for 100, although I can't be positive. Call them, don't email (unless you want to make sheaths without screws!
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). Umm....I think that's it. Email me if you have more specific questions and I will make you a Padawan learner.

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My Custom Kydex Sheath pagehttp://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
 
Thank you Master Chiro. I look forward to learning the ways of the sheath. I also have an email that I tried to send to you re: your trade for services post. I got the address from here, but it didn't work. If you email me, I'll send it to you. I have a blade you might be interested in. Also do you have a number for Blade-Tech?
Thanks!
Happycat
email me at ottercat@hancock.net and I'll send a detailed description of that blade.
 
You can also steam it. I adjusted a kydex sheath with the steam setting on my iron.


Blades
 
You can also get the "sex screws" also known as Chicago screws from leather supply outlets like Tandy Leather at www.tandyleather.com. They don`t have everything on the web site so you may have to e mail or call them. Marcus
 
I do not have anumber for Blade-Tech, but their URl is quite clever: http://www.blade-tech.com
They ought to have a number to call there, although I haven't ordered from them (I do have their screws, which are top-notch, though). Others have emailed me from here with no problems, so I'm not sure what happened there, but I will be emailing you quickly!

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My Custom Kydex Sheath pagehttp://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
 
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