How to Get a Razor Sharp Axe Edge?

B

BackwoodsPlaid

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Apr 16, 2012
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I have a new S&N axe that I'd like to put a razor sharp edge on and am wondering the most accepted product for doing so.

My current direction is to get a Lansky Puck and follow up with my leather strop.

Only concern is the description of the puck calls the finishing side "medium". I don't know if this is fine enough to do the job.

Any advice is appreciated,
Rhon
 
I use a Lansky Puck and most of the time strop on my hand. I keep shaving sharp edges.

I just noticed there is another Lansky Puck on that site thats $4 cheaper. It's a dark gray and tan but says the same grits. I have the dark gray and lighter gray.
 
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BackwoodsPlaid said:
I have a new S&N axe that I'd like to put a razor sharp edge on and am wondering the most accepted product for doing so.

My current direction is to get a Lansky Puck and follow up with my leather strop.

Only concern is the description of the puck calls the finishing side "medium". I don't know if this is fine enough to do the job.

Any advice is appreciated,
Rhon
Click to expand...

There's a great pamphlet on the care and maintenance of axes called "An Ax to Grind" found at this web site:
http://www.fhwa.dot.gov/environment...blications/fs_publications/99232823/index.cfm

Enjoy!
 
"Razor edge" (the ability to shave hairs) is a sort of trick that I've never considered that important.
I've always felt that edges could work well without being "razor" and that on the other hand some razor edges happened to perform not so well.

Anyway, if you want to shave hairs, you should take some time stropping. Stropping can generally put a shaving edge pretty quickly, particularly on low alloyed carbon steels like those often used in axes.

If you want a more durable edge, you might want to consider adding a finer polishing/honing stone to your sharpening process.
 
I have a delta 1" X 42" belt sander if the edge needs a touch up and then strop on an old piece of leather belt on a board with green compound.
 
i get my best results using my Delta 1 X 30 belt grinder w/ fine grit belts or a treated leather belt.

I also have a 8" hard felt buffing wheel that I will do the ob but its harder to use.

Double Ott
 
For razor sharp--use a file to get the right profile--then a Lansky puck honing form rough to fine--then crossed rods that contact both sides to true up the edge--then I finish with a smooth butcher's steel that I swipe along the edge. Once you get the edge honed in evenly with the puck along the whole width of the cutting bevel its fairly easy to maintain in a variety of ways--with light touch-ups from a puck, or crossed rods, or a butcher's steel, or by stropping.

The key is to file and hone the profile correctly after that its easy and not that essential to performance. An axe that that is properly honed to a fine edge will cut great even if it does not shave.
 
[video=youtube_share;fKY8vCejX2U]http://youtu.be/fKY8vCejX2U[/video]

I've had good results using sandpaper backed by a piece of glass then stropping just like you would for a knife. I may be a "little" odd though. I mainly use my axes for carving so I like them pretty sharp.
 
Thats a really nice edge you got there. How long does it stay that shiny though? Mine always mar up pretty quick when I'm using them.
Bridger said:
[video=youtube_share;fKY8vCejX2U]http://youtu.be/fKY8vCejX2U[/video]

I've had good results using sandpaper backed by a piece of glass then stropping just like you would for a knife. I may be a "little" odd though. I mainly use my axes for carving so I like them pretty sharp.
Click to expand...
 
It really depends on what kind of work you are doing and geometry plays a big role. One of the biggest problems is that these European axes, while very nice and made of quality steel with a good ht, usually have a softwood grind. The Wetterlings I used to have tended to bounce off of the hickory and oak I am usually chopping in Missouri and can chip out after going through just a few trees. For carving work they hold an edge as long as a knife with a similar grind would. They can sure power through birch and pine though. For carving, the polished edge excels at removing wood quickly with minimal effort making clean, smooth cuts just like any carving or bushcraft knife.

This is my bearded axe by the German smith Mirko Gunther.
IMG_0152.jpg


I am currently using this axe as well as a custom puukko to make a couple throwers to launch atlatls and it has no problems with chipping for this purpose even though I am using shagbark hickory. I have less experience with more typical American style felling axes, but I'm looking to remedy that soon. I feel that it is worth it sharpen to this degree for a carving or hunting axe, but may not be as important for a felling axe. I really like the pattern of the axe shown. I have used it to fillet a trout just to see if I could and it dressed 2 deer last November so I can attest to the fact that it is very dextrous and can take the head off a buck in one swing without damage fairly easily.

Here's a pic of the chipping from chopping some seasoned oak and hickory.
IMG_0155.jpg


So to sum it up. It depends on what kind of axe it is and how you intend to use it. I'm in the process of changing the geometry on this axe to a more American style to have more success with lighter chopping work like for firewood collection or fast wood removal for other projects.
 
omniviking said:
I have a delta 1" X 42" belt sander if the edge needs a touch up and then strop on an old piece of leather belt on a board with green compound.
Click to expand...



Exactly the same here, except I often use black compound on the back of a worn sanding belt to polish the edge.


p1012737.jpg





Big Mike
 
Ravaillac said:
"Razor edge" (the ability to shave hairs) is a sort of trick that I've never considered that important.
I've always felt that edges could work well without being "razor" and that on the other hand some razor edges happened to perform not so well.

Anyway, if you want to shave hairs, you should take some time stropping. Stropping can generally put a shaving edge pretty quickly, particularly on low alloyed carbon steels like those often used in axes.

If you want a more durable edge, you might want to consider adding a finer polishing/honing stone to your sharpening process.
Click to expand...

I agree. I've had edges that looked to be finished on a 200 grit belt that would shave hair but really sucked when used for wood working. I've had mirror polished edges that wouldn't shave but worked wonderfully on wood. My advise is to get a good polish on your edge if you really want performance. At least that's been my experience. My process is to use a medium bastard file to set the edge, sand paper on a wood backed strop from 200 grit to 2000 and then strop with black and then green compounds.
 
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