Automatic knife sharpeners remove so much metal, I hate to use them. And, I can do better by hand. But worthy of note is that certain steels have microsructures such that it is nearly impossible, or requires special techniques to get a razor edge. I don't own expensive sharpening gear. I have a 10" diamond slab 1000 and 400 grit on each side, two really rough diamond slabs for train wrecks, like broken tips, and a 2000 grit diamond slab.
One thing, the finer the grit, the more you have to keep rinsing it, because otherwise you're sharpening on a slurry of metal, and you're not in contact with the sharpening grit. Oh, I forgot, I have a 1/2 piece of plate glass with 7000 and 12000 grit self-adhesive sandpaper stuck on it.
So, keep you sharpening surface clear of slurry. For 1000 and below, it's not that much of a problem. Pick your angle, and stick with it until you take the burr off at the end. A steeper angle gives a fatter edge that is stronger. A shallower angle gives a thinner, potentially sharper edge, but more prone to dulling and chipping.
I just got in 4 Damascus blades that are about rockwell 48, which is softer. Softer steel develops a larger burr. It takes a bit more skill to take it off. But because it is softer, if you get most of it off, you can take a few layers of toilet tissue, and wrap the edge, but not so your cutting the tissue. Leave a bit of space at the bottom of the V. Then, pinch tight and rub the edge about 30-50 times. You should notice a big difference afterward. Damascus blades also respond to rubbing the entire blade, to smooth out the surface and make it look like real Damascus.
For most quality blades, even a SAK, keep your angle and get it pretty sharp by dragging across the stone. By stone, I mean any sharpening slab. To take off material, use a swirling motion, both dragging and pushing with the edge. Once you've got your edge shaped, and your just dragging, feel the edge, if it feels pretty sharp, start on your next grit up.
Always keep your angle. I prefer about 35-40 degrees for most knives. But more commonly, 28-35 degrees is used if your going for a razor edge. Drag across your higher grit about 20 times, alternating each time. Keep your stone free of slurry. I keep a small pitcher of water next to me, and on very fine grits I wipe them with a paper towel periodically.
You can kind of get a feel for when the edge is as sharp as the grit your on will get it. There's less grinding, smoother feel on the strokes. On your final grit, keep your angle, and draw about 20-30 strokes, alternating each one. Then, tip the knife about 3-5 degrees steeper than you angle, and with the lightest touch, swirl off the burr. You need about 1/2 a second on all parts of the edge, It only takes the slightest touch to take off the burr.
Sometimes you can feel the burr. But if your finish grit is very fine, probably not. Try to shave some arm hair. OK, then your done. If not, do the same thing to remove the burr again. 3-5 degrees steeper than your angle. The lightest touch in a quick swirl action. The swirl can be as small as 1/4". Other times I drag the blade in a straight line with the blade edge. Not pushing or dragging across.
The most difficult things are keeping your angle, and removing the burr without dulling the edge. I finish with 2000 grit. But for high chrome steel I'll go to 7000. Everyone tries to get a razor edge, and they get to the two yard line and drop the ball. Make sure you're 'just' getting the burr off, and nothing more. Don't rush it. Use the lightest touch.
If you just can't get it, look at your edge in the light, Does the grind look even. Is the edge straight. Unless you found the knife buried in a field somewhere, you don't need to spend much time on any particular grit. And I use a lighter touch on the last 10-20 strokes before I take off the burr.
Oh, and I did get a razor edge on the Damascus blade using the toilet tissue trick. It's a 500 layer blade, so each layer is very thin. B UT MAN IS IT A TOUGH, STRONG BLADE! NO flex at all. And it holds it's edge. I'm going to try to get more of those. The blades are fantastic, the construction is solid, but the finish is abomidable. It takes me about 4 hours to get them ready for sale. It would be impossible if I hadn't learned a few tricks over the years.
If you still can't get it, either the steel is poor, or your not keeping your angle through the whole process. Get a cheap practice blade for 40-50 bucks and practice keeping your angle. Some say you can get a razor edge by pushing. I never could, and I don't know anyone else who could either. But guys on here say they can do it. I could probably do it with S30V or similar.
One thing, the finer the grit, the more you have to keep rinsing it, because otherwise you're sharpening on a slurry of metal, and you're not in contact with the sharpening grit. Oh, I forgot, I have a 1/2 piece of plate glass with 7000 and 12000 grit self-adhesive sandpaper stuck on it.
So, keep you sharpening surface clear of slurry. For 1000 and below, it's not that much of a problem. Pick your angle, and stick with it until you take the burr off at the end. A steeper angle gives a fatter edge that is stronger. A shallower angle gives a thinner, potentially sharper edge, but more prone to dulling and chipping.
I just got in 4 Damascus blades that are about rockwell 48, which is softer. Softer steel develops a larger burr. It takes a bit more skill to take it off. But because it is softer, if you get most of it off, you can take a few layers of toilet tissue, and wrap the edge, but not so your cutting the tissue. Leave a bit of space at the bottom of the V. Then, pinch tight and rub the edge about 30-50 times. You should notice a big difference afterward. Damascus blades also respond to rubbing the entire blade, to smooth out the surface and make it look like real Damascus.
For most quality blades, even a SAK, keep your angle and get it pretty sharp by dragging across the stone. By stone, I mean any sharpening slab. To take off material, use a swirling motion, both dragging and pushing with the edge. Once you've got your edge shaped, and your just dragging, feel the edge, if it feels pretty sharp, start on your next grit up.
Always keep your angle. I prefer about 35-40 degrees for most knives. But more commonly, 28-35 degrees is used if your going for a razor edge. Drag across your higher grit about 20 times, alternating each time. Keep your stone free of slurry. I keep a small pitcher of water next to me, and on very fine grits I wipe them with a paper towel periodically.
You can kind of get a feel for when the edge is as sharp as the grit your on will get it. There's less grinding, smoother feel on the strokes. On your final grit, keep your angle, and draw about 20-30 strokes, alternating each one. Then, tip the knife about 3-5 degrees steeper than you angle, and with the lightest touch, swirl off the burr. You need about 1/2 a second on all parts of the edge, It only takes the slightest touch to take off the burr.
Sometimes you can feel the burr. But if your finish grit is very fine, probably not. Try to shave some arm hair. OK, then your done. If not, do the same thing to remove the burr again. 3-5 degrees steeper than your angle. The lightest touch in a quick swirl action. The swirl can be as small as 1/4". Other times I drag the blade in a straight line with the blade edge. Not pushing or dragging across.
The most difficult things are keeping your angle, and removing the burr without dulling the edge. I finish with 2000 grit. But for high chrome steel I'll go to 7000. Everyone tries to get a razor edge, and they get to the two yard line and drop the ball. Make sure you're 'just' getting the burr off, and nothing more. Don't rush it. Use the lightest touch.
If you just can't get it, look at your edge in the light, Does the grind look even. Is the edge straight. Unless you found the knife buried in a field somewhere, you don't need to spend much time on any particular grit. And I use a lighter touch on the last 10-20 strokes before I take off the burr.
Oh, and I did get a razor edge on the Damascus blade using the toilet tissue trick. It's a 500 layer blade, so each layer is very thin. B UT MAN IS IT A TOUGH, STRONG BLADE! NO flex at all. And it holds it's edge. I'm going to try to get more of those. The blades are fantastic, the construction is solid, but the finish is abomidable. It takes me about 4 hours to get them ready for sale. It would be impossible if I hadn't learned a few tricks over the years.
If you still can't get it, either the steel is poor, or your not keeping your angle through the whole process. Get a cheap practice blade for 40-50 bucks and practice keeping your angle. Some say you can get a razor edge by pushing. I never could, and I don't know anyone else who could either. But guys on here say they can do it. I could probably do it with S30V or similar.
