How to get rid of lock stickyness?

S

scalemaster

Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
9
Hi all

I got a CRKT S2 with some lock stickyness and i wondered if there is a way of eliminate that to a minimum.
The S2 is a titanium framelock with a ATS34 blade.

When opened normally (read..slow) the stickyness is not that bad, but when i flip it open,it really needs a push.
The S2 is brandnew (old stock) and the lock is about 50%

See pic

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try a pencil and rub some graphite on the lock. it's worked well for me and is easily removed. some like the sharpie, i've had mixed luck with that method.
 
Graphite (pencil lead) or sharpie on the lock. Solvent on the lock to get rid of any oils, break it in.
 
Use the knife. Seriously not being a smart ass. Had striders that I played with anf flicked 100s on times and they would still stick. Take em out and use them and the knife will settle in.
 
I've used pencil and sharpie before on the lockface, but they seem to wear out quickly. Recently I learned of Birchwood Casey Gun Blue marker and anti-oxidant compound. The gun blue seems to work but if the stick is bad, it can still persist. The anti-oxidant compound, Noalox is what I used, seems to work pretty well and it has lasted for a while. You can pick up the Gun Blue marker and Noalox from a lot of places, retail or online.
 
Spartan00 said:
Use the knife. Seriously not being a smart ass. Had striders that I played with anf flicked 100s on times and they would still stick. Take em out and use them and the knife will settle in.
Click to expand...

this is true. it's a pain to wait it out, but they do break in eventually.
 
Spartan00 said:
Use the knife. Seriously not being a smart ass. Had striders that I played with anf flicked 100s on times and they would still stick. Take em out and use them and the knife will settle in.
Click to expand...

While this is true, often the first thing people do who have not encountered titanium stick, is to add oil (gun oil, 3-in-1, wd40, etc). This usually makes things worse, and will make simple "break-in" a very long process. But does work in the long run as I've done just that on both aluminum and titanium lock stick. Maybe it's just the use that helps residual oil to evaporate or wear off.

As others have said, first clean off any residual oils. Then try the methods above. I've also tried powdered graphite. But if you have a bearing pivot, it can make things a little gritty until broken down. So I'd try the pencil lead first, then go on to the others if needed.
 
Yea oil is a no no on a lock face ,a little alcohol on a qtip will fix that right up.

A sticky lock is not a bad thing . It can be annoying if your one to constantly play with your knives ,but I like a lock that will stick on me especially if I haft to grip the knife harder than normal or apply downward force ,a stick is a whole lot better than a slip.
 
Should have think of that before.
This knife is from the mid nineties and came from a small shop who sells a whole lot of cheap knives,axes katana's and airguns.
Next to that there was a seperate floor were they had the more 'premium'' brands from Spyderco to Benchmade to the complete Chris Reeve lineup.

The Midline knives like Crkt and Kershaw and more of that were a little stuffed away.
They still have knives from 25 years ago brand new in boxes or as demo in displays, and mine is such a sample....completely dryed out..

I disassembled the knife, cleaned and lubed it and it feels like it is a little less sticky.
Buy the way....that S2 is one heck of a smooth opener with just that much detent for lightning fast opening (was a little heavy before cleaning)

The Apache next to it has the same problem
 
You can use a blue pen. Gun blueing(sp?) it's a more permanent option than graphite or sharpie and not as permanent as carbidizing.
 
First thing: blade open, cover the knife with dish detergent like Dawn, and then
wash the whole knife thoroughly with hot water especially at the pivot. Then do it again
while gently closing the blade as the water runs on the pivot. (You might want to
wear some nitrile gloves for protecting your hands.

And of course be very careful of the edge.:cool:

Rinse the knife completely with warm water (blade side and spine side), and then
blast the pivot with compressed air while gently opening and closing the blade.

Then dry with a microfiber or other lint-free cloth.

When dry, use your favorite lube (not too much) in the pivot.
There are many good ones; my favorites are Shooter's Choice FP-10
and BreakFree CLP.
 
Dremmel buffing compound (the red stuff) leave it on and it helps break in the parts.
 
I just leave it alone to let it wear in. Adding any lubricant is like using royal purple in a freshly rebuilt motor.
 
Make sure there is zero oil on either side of the lockface! If it is not that, it may have to wear/break in.
 
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