How to grind bevel like this?

Instead of grinding Straight up and Down for a Plunge Line you grind at an Angle...This is a Very Thin Blade steel looks to be a Kitchen knife so no Plunge/Ricasso actually necessary.
 
The curve on the top of grind suggests disc grinder
You can do it with a belt grinder top will just be straight and angled
It's flat stock with a flat grind with 2 obvious planes,nothing blended together
Looks good actually
 
John mc c said:
The curve on the top of grind suggests disc grinder
You can do it with a belt grinder top will just be straight and angled
It's flat stock with a flat grind with 2 obvious planes,nothing blended together
Looks good actually
Click to expand...
I know. I like the sweeping look of it, but have no clue how to make that happen. Even if I used a disc grinder I would just wind up grinding a hole in it I think. I may need to hold off for a lot of years until I understand this grinding thing more.
 
You can do it on a disc grinder, but a belt grinder will work just as well. The curve "plunge" is made by rotating the butt down and slightly turning your wrist as you make each pass (starting at the heel). Practice on some thin mild steel.
 
Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
You can do it on a disc grinder, but a belt grinder will work just as well. The curve "plunge" is made by rotating the butt down and slightly turning your wrist as you make each pass (starting at the heel). Practice on some thin mild steel.
Click to expand...
I will practice..., but new question....does the bubble jig work for something like this? Looking at this guy's website he tends to do this radius bevel grind on everything he makes. https://www.haslinger-knives.com/gallery

I don't know if I like the look on a hunter, but it is a unique cool look that I haven't seen done by other makers....might be some, but I haven't noticed it before.
 
Okay, I'm glad I got to see those two videos. The motion needed to make the sweeping plunge in the second video was pretty well backwards to what I imagined. Flipping the blade over and grinding like Bill Luckett does in the first video never occurred to me, but I think I would be more likely to be successful with that one.
 
It’s exactly what I do on my plungeless kitchen knives. It’s a sweeping plunge. From there I blend it all together. I pretty much do as Butch’s video shows as that’s where I learned from. Thanks Butch!
 
I can see Butch is pushing pretty hard in his video and he is grinding post ht with a 50 grit belt. Is it a little easier not to have things go wrong when you are grinding post ht because he isn't taking quite as much off each pass?

Matt Rochester Matt Rochester I wondered what was happening with the tang on plungeless blades. I didn't know if the tang was sort of beveled too. But you just sort of blend the transition from one to the next.

Is 1/8" 154CM too thick for a kitchen knife? It's all I have left at home here.
 
Correct. I grind post heat treat for 2 reasons. One is to minimize or eliminate warping. Two is it’s less likely to screw anything up beyond repair. High speed ceramic belts will eat a lot of annealed steel in a hurry. 1/8” is pretty thick but if you grind in some distal taper and take the edge down thin you’ll be alright. It really depends on the knife. 1/8” paring knife probably won’t perform well. 1/8” chef’s knife 8” long with distal taper will be fine. 3/32” is as thick as I go for kitchen cutlery.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top