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How to grind blacksmith/viking knife?

J

JulianF

Joined
Oct 19, 2024
Messages
12
I forged a dozen knives last year after I got my first forge.
Now that I have a good grinder (2x72), I'm learning how to grind them.

The finger guard/wrap-around part of the handles on the blacksmith/viking knives I made is really in the way.

Can you tell me the order of the steps you would do make a knife like this in terms of overall construction, heat treat and grinding?

I had already heat treated and was not having fun grinding as the guard was in the way.

So I wrapped the blade in a wet rag, heated the curved part of the handle with Map/Pro torch, bent it out of the way, ground it and then re-wrapped in a wet rag, heated with the Map/Pro torch and tried to bend it back. The rebending part was not good. The shape sucks, it's out of alignment,...

So what order and/or methods would you do things in to avoid this problem? Advice and ideas much appreciated.
https://flic.kr/p/2rhcnmc
 

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Mk-211 said:

Around the Grinder

KnifeMaker's Chit Chat Area. For off topic posting, humor, bs'ing, etc for our hard working Knifemakers. Private Forum, Knifemaker Members & above only.
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com

Hammer & Tongs

Knifemaking Knowledge & Discovery. Share your works in progress, ask questions, and continue the traditions.
www.bladeforums.com www.bladeforums.com
Click to expand...
"around the grinder" requires a knife maker membership to post.

Moving thread to "Shop Talk - BladeSmith Questions and Answers"
 
I would either grind plunge lines ahead of the end of the handle, or leave the handle part straight and bend it after grinding and polishing. If you go the second way then wrap the blade in a wet cloth to keep it cool while heating the handle
 
Use a wet rag and the torch again, curl the rat tail end of the handle into a scroll shape.
It'll make your handle shorter, but it'll also give you access to grind and sharpen it. Plus, it'll look better/more finished
 
MS Lin Rhea has a video on YouTube making this style (or similar to) this.
 
I will generally forge the tang to shape, and bend it to about 80% from finished. Basically just enough clearance to get the blade on the belt. Then once the blade is ground and polished I'll use a torch to just heat the bend, and finish moving it around to the final position.
 
Thanks for the responses.

The only torch I have access to is a Map/Pro and it really wasn't getting enough of the handle hot enough for me to adequately re-shape or finish the bend in the handle in a pleasing way.

I'm using a propane forge and I can't get enough of the handle hot without overheating the tempered blade.

I've seen lots of different shapes and styles for these kinds of knives. I really liked this design - but still really feel stuck with this hurdle.
 
You only need to heat the "U" at the end.

Wrap a wet rag around the blade and put it in a vise.
Heat the "U" end of the handle with the torch. A Mapp gas torch should be sufficient.
Once it is red, open it up by pulling the guard part down.
When done grinding the blade, reheat the tang and bend back in shape.

You also could wrap the blade and stick the end of the handle in your forge. When red, straighten the tang and proceed as above.
 
JulianF said:
Thanks for the responses.

The only torch I have access to is a Map/Pro and it really wasn't getting enough of the handle hot enough for me to adequately re-shape or finish the bend in the handle in a pleasing way.

I'm using a propane forge and I can't get enough of the handle hot without overheating the tempered blade.

I've seen lots of different shapes and styles for these kinds of knives. I really liked this design - but still really feel stuck with this hurdle.
Click to expand...

Look at a "two brick forge"

The secret is IFB
Insulating Fire Bricks by Morgan Thermal Ceramics

k2300

The local fireplace firebricks are not at all the same.
 
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