How to hand polish a blade

L

lightman

Joined
Dec 8, 1999
Messages
36
What is the best way to hand polish a blade? I start with 240 from tip to handle. then 400 cross grain, then 6oo from tip to handle. I use water in all these steps. Then one pass of new 600 paper for a final finish. this pass is with dry paper. Is this correct.

Cliff
 
lightman,
You are going in the right direction. You might want to use 320 grit in between 220 & 400. It will make the 400 go quicker. When you do the final rub, make sure your paper is dust-free and watch out for those bothersome little hairlike scratches. Keep the paper moving and rub the entire length without stopping. Oh yeah, inspect the blade under a good light source for any imperfections.

Barry
 
In find that wet/dry silicon abrasive paper works better with light oil than water. Other than that, sounds great!
 
I hand sand by sanding the length of the blade with 150 grit silicon-carbide, look at a low light, to see any scratches, make sure you get every scratch and dip out of the blade. Now switch to 220grt silicon carbide sand across the blade, look at a low light to see scratches. Again switch to length-wise with 320grt. switch over to acrost the blade with 400 grt. again switch over to 600grt, lenght wise. Now wash of your blade with soap and warm water, dry off you blade well. Now sent for heat- treating. When you receive your blade sand lenght wise with 600grt. Get out discoloration and decarb if there is any. Make sure to check at a low level light for scratches. Now sand across with 1000. stay at 1,000 and sand lenghtwise, it'll give your blade a mutch better finish then ending with sanding across. Make sure you get all areas of the blade before moving to the next grit, i.e. flats, and bevels (i just do the profile with the grinder, becuase it gets scratched when putting handles on). Wash the blade off with soap, and dry before buffing for a mirror (continue with a satin finish wheel if you want a satin finish) if not skip it. remember to tape up the blade, so it doesn't get scratched when your working other parts, i. e. handles.
 

I didn't know you could polish any other way than hand
smile.gif


------------------
KSwinamer
 
George,

7.5? WOW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I would hate to have a blade ripped out of my hand by that monster.

Buffers scare the HELL out of me, so I very rarely use one.

Barry
 
Here's my 2Cents worth........
What ever grit you finish with, try using CoolTool2 cutting fluid instead of oil or water. Also works good on my D2 through the entire grit range. For the final passes with the finest paper, I use a wooden toungue depressor with a thin layer of rubber between the sandpaper and the wood. It sort of conforms to the shape of the blade and evens out the pressure. Also..........
I like to go one grit higher than I'm going to finish with, then go back and put the final "lines" on with the previous grit.
It makes for a more distinct line patern.
I often wonder what the neibors think Im doing when the shop door is open and they see me hunched over polishing a troublesome grind line out?????
Neil

------------------
Update in process! New knives, pictures, Sheaths!!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html


 
Thanks to everyone,

I polish with a buffer most of the time, but not a BIG one. I am trying to hone my skills on the hand finish. So far I haven't made a good one but i'm still trying.

Cliff
 
it is possible to make one, i'm making plans for a sharpener, one of them big ones, with the 14"x 2" wheel, i'm sure it would be just as easy to make a buffer, even easier if you can cast iron.
 
Dr. Lathe

Thanks for the tip on the tounge depressor and rubber pad. I'll try it, also will go to a higher finish before the final 600.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top