How to heat treat a knife so that it can withstand rough operations without breaking?

H

Henry007

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Nov 28, 2021
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According to the experience of netizens, if the knife is expected to have good sharpness and edge retention, it should be tempered at 175°C to obtain the maximum hardness. When the tempering temperature is lower than 175°C, although extremely high hardness will be obtained, the material will be very brittle. Similarly, tempering temperatures higher than 350°C should also be avoided, as this will lead to reduced brittleness and corrosion resistance. How to properly quench and temper? To achieve a good balance between the hardness, toughness and corrosion resistance of the finished blade?
 
you have to make sure the tiger blood is fresh, and by that I mean you have to make the sacrifice and quickly quench the blade in the warm, rapidly draining blood, by the count of 13. Failure to do so will require you to find another tiger by the next full moon and do it right, or forfeit your soul.

that's how I do it. Still have my soul, so far as I can tell
 
Lorien said:
you have to make sure the tiger blood is fresh, and by that I mean you have to make the sacrifice and quickly quench the blade in the warm, rapidly draining blood, by the count of 13. Failure to do so will require you to find another tiger by the next full moon and do it right, or forfeit your soul.

that's how I do it. Still have my soul, so far as I can tell
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You are the best！😁
 
Henry007 said:
pure carbon steel 1060
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1060 is very very tough, provided that the heat treatment and geometry is decently executed. Just don't expect much edge retention and corrosion resistance from it.

For almost all simple carbon steel, the heat treatment process is:
aust to non magnetic or slightly above, quench
temper at 150C/300F for hardness, or 200C/400F for toughness

Higher temper, 350C-500C is only applicable for high alloy steel, they have Tungsten and Molypdenum which leads to "secondary hardening hump". Don't worry about that if your steel don't have those elements.

Also, use thicker geometry.

You can break anything if you hit it hard enough, but in practical use, 1060 can take one hell of an abuse and laugh it off.
 
PMQ said:
1060 is very very tough, provided that the heat treatment and geometry is decently executed. Just don't expect much edge retention and corrosion resistance from it.

For almost all simple carbon steel, the heat treatment process is:
aust to non magnetic or slightly above, quench
temper at 150C/300F for hardness, or 200C/400F for toughness

Higher temper, 350C-500C is only applicable for high alloy steel, they have Tungsten and Molypdenum which leads to "secondary hardening hump". Don't worry about that if your steel don't have those elements.

Also, use thicker geometry.

You can break anything if you hit it hard enough, but in practical use, 1060 can take one hell of an abuse and laugh it off.
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I am green. There is a lot to learn. Thank you so much.
 
Welcome Henry. Fill out your profile so we know where you live. It helps give better answers.
What is the source of the 1060 steel?


PMQ pretty much has the answer for 1060 steel.
Harden at 800-815°C, which is a full shade brighter than non-magnetic.
Quench is a fast oil or brine. Canola oil will work enough while you are learning. Brine is better, but may cause some cracked blades. Parks #50 fast HT oil works fine.
For a knife blade:
Temper twice at 200°C for a good toughness.
Temper at 175°C for max hardness and edge life. (I think 150°C is too low and may chip easily with any rough use.)
(For cutting tools that need the highest toughness, temper at 300°C.)
 
I think you need virgins and a compass. Eclipses are a good thing to have as well. I'm not sure what you do with all of them but you should try to get some before you start.
Virgins driving a Eclipse don't work. Not even if you run them over in a Compass. The virgins might need to be female. Males are just to easy to find probably. Maybe I should try the tiger thing next.
 
if you can find a virgin tiger, you're off to the races!
 
If I've learned anything from Forged in Fire then the steel is definitely canister Damascus.
 
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