How to increase lockbar tension

LimpCroissant

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Hey guys. I have a situation that I've never come across before and am wondering if anyone has any tricks on this. I was given an integral ti framelock. I didn't really want to bring up what knife it actually is because it sparks controversy. But... I know people are going to ask anyway and since I was given it, I can't really be called a promoter of such things. It is a Strider SNG clone. I know, I know... But this is what I have and this is the knife with the problem. It's a full Ti integral framelock. I'm hoping that this particular one just somehow passed QC unintentionally and that they're not all like this but this knife has been the biggest knife disappointment I've ever had I'm pretty sure. It has a host of issues including an off centered blade, detent lash, pivot lash, not great action, and lastly and that which is worst: lock rock and vertical bladeplay. Being that it's an integral, one cannot simply bend the lockbar towards the opposite scale to increase lockbar tension. The mating faces of the lockbar and blade tang are done decently so if I could just get more tension on that lockbar, it would solve the lock rock and the rest of the issues I could kind of look passed. I took the blade out and bent the lockbar as far as possible (until it touches the opposing scale), and it was not enough to give the bend memory and give it more sideways force. Does anyone have any tricks to making this happen? The only thing I can think of is heating up the lockbar relief with a torch until it is very hot, bending the lockbar to the opposing scale, and clamping it while still hot until it cools. I'm thinking that MAY kind of "reset" the lockbar memory and make it have more force. The other thing I did, which did partially work is bend the clip so that it has extra pressure. The clip presses on the lockbar and it did actually increase the lockup and help with the lock rock a bit. The problem with that is that it puts so much pressure between the clip and the scale that it pretty much renders the clip useless as it's too strong to clip in and out of your pocket without tearing your jeans all up after a bit. Any ideas would be appreciated, thank you.
 
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Fixing lock rock on a frame lock is not an easy task. Normally, I would suggest sending it back to the manufacturer, but I'm not sure if they have a warranty.
 
Fixing lock rock on a frame lock is not an easy task. Normally, I would suggest sending it back to the manufacturer, but I'm not sure if they have a warranty.
Yea that's what I would do also but in this case I don't think it's possible unfortunately.
 
Hey cut me some slack man😂, this isn't my normal type of thing. And I'm not a clone supporter. I do have a infatuation with integral framelocks though so if I can possibly change my mindset of this knife from "I can't hardly stand to look at it", to "Shoot, ya know I might actually carry this thing around when I need a good beater knife", then that would be awesome. I couldn't, in good faith, sell this thing and the guy doesn't want it back, so I might as well try to make something of it rather than a paperweight. Honestly, what I'd like to have it around for is trying different mod techniques like anodization, different finishes, maybe testing my engraving skills, that sort of thing.
 
Hey cut me some slack man😂, this isn't my normal type of thing. And I'm not a clone supporter. I do have a infatuation with integral framelocks though so if I can possibly change my mindset of this knife from "I can't hardly stand to look at it", to "Shoot, ya know I might actually carry this thing around when I need a good beater knife", then that would be awesome. I couldn't, in good faith, sell this thing and the guy doesn't want it back, so I might as well try to make something of it rather than a paperweight. Honestly, what I'd like to have it around for is trying different mod techniques like anodization, different finishes, maybe testing my engraving skills, that sort of thing.
HEAVY beadblasting in the lockbar relief will curve it away from the blasted side👍
 
HEAVY beadblasting in the lockbar relief will curve it away from the blasted side👍
Aha! Huh, now that's interesting and a good idea. I'm trying to figure out the physics behind it and why it would curve it away from the blasted side, but I believe it coming from you. Thank you for the tip!
 
Aha! Huh, now that's interesting and a good idea. I'm trying to figure out the physics behind it and why it would curve it away from the blasted side, but I believe it coming from you. Thank you for the tip!
You're spreading the surface on one side, if one side gets bigger and the other side stays the same...🤷‍♂️ 💡
 
It is an Evil Eyes Strider SNG clone. I know, I know... But this is what I have and this is the knife with the problem. It's a full Ti integral framelock. I'm hoping that this particular one just somehow passed QC

I'd be surprised if clones underwent any type of quality control at all.

this knife has been the biggest knife disappointment I've ever had I'm pretty sure. It has a host of issues including an off centered blade, detent lash, pivot lash, not great action, and lastly and that which is worst: lock rock and vertical bladeplay.

When I read this^ sentence I couldn't help but think "Why would you want to fix it?".

Makes me think of a guy who says "My girlfriend cheated on me, stole all my money, wrecked my car, burned all my clothes, and gave me the clap, but I don't want to lose her. I know we can make it work". 😁


The knife sounds like it started out as a piece of junk, and will forever be a piece of junk. Based on your own description of it, maybe you're better off without it.

EDIT: HOLY CRAP! I just looked up those knives. First, ANY knives sold by those Chinese vendors are best avoided (well-known for clones and counterfeits), but one priced that high, I would DEFINITELY say "Don't walk away, RUN!". Based on who's selling those knives I'm not at all surprised that it's a disappointment. No matter how appealing a particular style of knife might be, or how many people give it positive reviews, one should never pay that much for a knife that they can't easily return for a refund if it turns out to be defective. Just some friendly advice.
 
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If it has a stop pin you could try to get one of a slightly larger diameter
Good idea my friend, however this one uses the thumb studs as the stop pin so one would have to drill out the blade a little bigger and get press fit thumbstuds that would fit. A good idea, but the lockbar still wouldn't have enough tension to be solid. I appreciate the advice though!
 
I'd be surprised if clones underwent any type of quality control at all.

mor

When I read this^ sentence I couldn't help but think "Why would you want to fix it?".

Makes me think of a guy who says "My girlfriend cheated on me, stole all my money, wrecked my car, burned all my clothes, and gave me the clap, but I don't want to lose her. I know we can make it work". 😁


The knife sounds like it started out as a piece of junk, and will forever be a piece of junk. Based on your own description of it, maybe you're better off without it.

EDIT: HOLY CRAP! I just looked up those knives. First, ANY knives sold by those Chinese vendors are best avoided (well-known for clones and counterfeits), but one priced that high, I would DEFINITELY say "Don't walk away, RUN!". Based on who's selling those knives I'm not at all surprised that it's a disappointment. No matter how appealing a particular style of knife might be, or how many people give it positive reviews, one should never pay that much for a knife that they can't easily return for a refund if it turns out to be defective. Just some friendly advice.
Yup, I hear you. I would never buy this thing myself. Someone gave it to me. It's just one of those things that you run into and decide would be a fun thing to try different mods on to hone your skills before moving onto your more serious knives. I have a few knives that I'd like to get certain parts blasted. I used to have a bead blaster myself but moved and no longer have a place for an air compressor. But, if I find someone local who can blast a few small things for me I'll throw this into the pile to see if I can't improve upon it.
 
But, if I find someone local who can blast a few small things for me I'll throw this into the pile to see if I can't improve upon it.
Unless you're doing it for the sake of knowledge, I wouldn't put any time or effort into it. Even after spending effort on it, you may not get the result you want. Have you tried using the blade to see if the steel is any good?
 
Unless you're doing it for the sake of knowledge, I wouldn't put any time or effort into it. Even after spending effort on it, you may not get the result you want. Have you tried using the blade to see if the steel is any good?
I am actually doing it for the sake of knowledge and experience. It's not something that I'd ever cherish and keep as a serious user. Just a fun little project is all. No, I haven't really done any cutting with it other than cutting a plastic water bottle up for the fun of it. It's claimed to be M390, probably run soft as a smoothie. Either way It's not something I'll stress over. Just wanted to ask for a quick bit of friendly advice on something that I'd like to use for practice. I've got some knives that I'd like to do a few different mods with but don't feel quite confident enough to put the tools to them yet. This will give me a kind of blank canvass to try different voltages and heat methods for anodization and maybe some engraving.

Edit: Spelling.
 
If the thumbstuds are the stop pins you could try making little collars for them by cutting hollow steel pins that would slip over them, secured either by press fit or jb weld, then sand down the diameter slowly until it locks. Or even try little rubber grommets
 
If the thumbstuds are the stop pins you could try making little collars for them by cutting hollow steel pins that would slip over them, secured either by press fit or jb weld, then sand down the diameter slowly until it locks. Or even try little rubber grommets
That's a good idea man and one that I'll keep up my sleeve. I've thought of getting lttle o-rings to put over thumbstuds on another knife that had a similar type issue. However the main thing is the lockbar tension. If I take the blade out and set the integral handle down, bladeless, the lockbar only goes over a tad, so even with bigger stop pin/thumbstuds it'd still just barely be locked, even after bending the lockbar as far to the opposite scale as possible. There's just not enough travel room to make the Ti set and "remember" the lockbar tension. However I believe that heavily bead blasting the relief could very well give me just enough tension like WValtakis suggested.

Alright, thank you guys for your suggestions, I appreciate it very much!👌
 
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