How to loosen up a GEC slipjoint?

Sisusari

Sisusari

Joined
Jan 29, 2016
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593
Hey all, I've always had modern folders, but, just recently picked up my first slipjoint, a GEC Northfield #98 American Whittler in kingwood. The knife is gorgeous, and I'm looking forward to whittling with it, but its damn hard to get the thing open! I understand that slipjoints have a harder pull, but, I simply cannot get them open. The blades have bit me several times already while trying to open/close the blades. I'm sure I'm not the only one with this issue, so, what are common fixes for an extremely stiff slipjoint? Any advice is appreciated!
 
Results vary, but the easiest thing is some lubrication in the pivot. You can work it on by working the pivot. Some people will also leave the knives half open to stress the back spring, but I honestly have never seen much of an improvement from doing so. If it is truly difficult do operate it may be a warranty issue.
 
Like Jeff said oil the pivot. Sometimes metal shavings get in there from production and you have flush them out. Lot of folks use 3in1 oil for this but I use mineral oil. After you apply your oil work the blades you may have to repeat this a couple of times. If this doesn't fix your problem I also recommend email GEC and send it to them they're great folks and have great customer service.
 
Lube it up and use it. I like both a light oil (to penetrate all the way to the pivot pin) and a white gun grease on the pivots (to lubricate the sliding motion between tang and spring).

Opening and closing a blade is really the best way to loosen up a stiff opening.
 
Just to add to what the other fellas have said, when working oil into the joint I like to wrap the blade with something protective like an old denim rag so as to safely grip it while rotating the blade in an opening and closing motion.
 
All of the above, plus a little technique I use to know when the joints have been adequately flushed. I use oil (3 in 1, hoppes #9, mineral oil are all fine) and liberally add it until it seeps out of the joint upon opening and closing the knife. Then I work the blade back and forth, wiping away the black oil containing gunk from the joint. When the oil comes out clear, the action is usually much smoother and i consider the joint flushed.

I'm sure other people have other methods.
 
tstaut said:
All of the above, plus a little technique I use to know when the joints have been adequately flushed. I use oil (3 in 1, hoppes #9, mineral oil are all fine) and liberally add it until it seeps out of the joint upon opening and closing the knife. Then I work the blade back and forth, wiping away the black oil containing gunk from the joint. When the oil comes out clear, the action is usually much smoother and i consider the joint flushed.

I'm sure other people have other methods.
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I do this, too. I use sewing machine oil, which is very light and thin in consistency. If after it flows out of the joint clear, the blades are still too hard to pull, then I know I have a problem.

There are a few things you can do to tinker with the knife, but I wouldn't really recommend them if you are new to traditionals. Unless you have a familiarity with what they are supposed to feel like, and a good understanding of the mechanics, you risk creating more problems.
 
After the joints are properly cleaned & oiled, it is "possible" to over-stress the spring and loosen the pull a little. BUT, it's a tricky thing to do and you risk permanently ruining your knife.

Since this is your first slipjoint, it may just be a matter of technique & perception. Give yourself some time to get used to it, the pull open needs to be a lot tougher than a modern (locking) folder, since the spring is the only thing that holds it open. If you still think it's too tough after a couple weeks, consider sending it to GEC to lighten the pull for you.
 
tstaut said:
All of the above, plus a little technique I use to know when the joints have been adequately flushed. I use oil (3 in 1, hoppes #9, mineral oil are all fine) and liberally add it until it seeps out of the joint upon opening and closing the knife. Then I work the blade back and forth, wiping away the black oil containing gunk from the joint. When the oil comes out clear, the action is usually much smoother and i consider the joint flushed.

I'm sure other people have other methods.
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This, plus a can of compressed air to blow out the pivot/backspring area works like a charm. Some slipjoints have really heavy pulls, and that #98 is a big knife capable of hard work, so it needs a stout spring.
 
Ordinarily I would recommend very hot water and Dawn dishwashing detergent, but you might try Rem Oil or WD40 to flush it out and use compressed air. Then most any decent oil (I don't recommend 3 in 1 as it has paraffin as an additive and will gum up over time).
 
Good advise all around. This is the process that I employ ...quoted from another thread.

knarfeng said:
I would wash it in the sink under running water and use dish soap. Then rinse it clean in water, then in rubbing alcohol, blow dry it, rinse it with WD40, then apply some oil. Just to make absolutely certain that there are no chips are still jammed in there. In your closeup pictures, it appears to me as if there are little trails like as if some grit was still there. I find the soap and water treatment to be more effective than just running oil or WD40 through it.
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Hey all, just wanted to update....I went with some mineral oil and lubed up the joints, and then used some compressed air on it. That with working the blades with a towel covering them to prevent further cuts seemed to do the trick. The knife is stiff, as one would expect with a slipjoint, but it now opens easier and I'm very happy with it. Thanks everyone for your advice and help!
 
I had a #73 liner lock that became impossible to open even after all the hints lists above. Finally sent it back to GEC. It was repaired at no charge and now works properly.
 
I've got one of those Böker Beer barrell congress knives with the exact same problem. I'm not sure what to do myself. Been working it but it's not seeming like it's doing much good.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
 
GavonKH1993 said:
I've got one of those Böker Beer barrell congress knives with the exact same problem. I'm not sure what to do myself. Been working it but it's not seeming like it's doing much good.

Sent from my SM-N920V using Tapatalk
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Some knives defy all efforts and are just sprung too stiff.
 
JB in SC said:
Some knives defy all efforts and are just sprung too stiff.
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Sadly true. A beautiful 73 I bought from the Exchange rejected all efforts to improve its 9.8 spring ( I swear I felt my nail lifting out of place :eek::barf: ) Tried all the suggestions (this was long before this particular thread) including vice work, leaving it open at an angle for weeks..., then tried filing part of the tang to round it, no better. This latter of course voided any guarantee and as I live overseas I saw little point in sending it in. My other enquiries to GEC about replacing at my own cost a damaged Ivory Smooth Bone scale (hardly rare or complicated) were met with discouraging indifference.

Ah well, can't deny the looks of the 73 though...

IMG_1532.jpg
 
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Clean the joints out well. Re oil. Open a close a bunch.

Leaving it in the 1/4 from open position for a time is also used.
 
I would think you wouldn't want to keep it too oily, as keeping it dry would start to rub the steel away, thus making it smoother/easier. You might want to run oil in it to get the dust out afterwards to prevent galling in unwanted areas.
 
Glad it is breaking in. I think as you go forward, you'll find it gets looser and smoother to open.

Even my most gnarly snappers have really become more manageable over time.
 
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