How to make 110 open smoothly?

A

aza77

Joined
Apr 19, 2007
Messages
268
Quick question, I just got an ag110...very nice...but very slightly gritty when opening and closing. I cleaned and cleaned it and then wd40'd it...then cleaned it...is there anything else I can do to make it glass smooth opening and closing?

Thanks a lot :)
 
Try washing it with dish washing soap and water. Work the blade good. Rinse it in warm water. Blow it real dry with a compressor or canned air. Then lubricate it. That will almost always get it smooth as silk.
 
DaggerBlade said:
Try washing it with dish washing soap and water. Work the blade good. Rinse it in warm water. Blow it real dry with a compressor or canned air. Then lubricate it. That will almost always get it smooth as silk.
Click to expand...

What he said.^^^^^

And use a good lubricant; there are many available. FP-10, Tuf-Glide, Militec-1, BreakFree CLP are a few.
All will give you better performance than WD-40 - which is better for cleaning and water displacement ("WD") than as a lube.
(Silicone spray, mineral oil, and synthetic motor oil will also lubricate better than WD-40.)

Enjoy your 110! :thumbup:
 
I did the dishwashing soap and water a bunch of times and it's still a bit gritty. Does a little bit of vaseline work well?

If not, anything else which I might have laying around the house?

Thanks a lot guys. :)
 
I use Rem Oil, with Teflon. I'd wash and blow it out like suggested, then use some good lube. Rem Oil works well for me.

schiesz
 
I use firearm action cleaner/degreaser,followed by a product called gunslick,a firearm action lubricant.Its made any folder with a rough gritty action work as smooth as glass.

Compressed air after the action degreaser really gets out the gunk.good luck.
 
Make sure that the tang of the blade does not have any burs.
With the blade closed, feel along the tang, in the groove between the bolsters, from the locking notch to the locking-bar itself.
If there are any burs or imperfections there you can file them smooth with fine grit sandpaper.

HPIM3791.jpg


Good luck,
Allen
 
I've never personally tried this because I have never had the need to, but I have been told to use some type of polishing compound and then work the blade back and forth a number of times to "polish" out any rough areas that might be contributing to the problem. Kind of goes along with what AllenC has said. Good luck!!
 
allenC said:
Make sure that the tang of the blade does not have any burs.
With the blade closed, feel along the tang, in the groove between the bolsters, from the locking notch to the locking-bar itself.
If there are any burs or imperfections there you can file them smooth with fine grit sandpaper.

HPIM3791.jpg


Good luck,
Allen
Click to expand...

Allen, what scale material is that? Gorgeous.

I like CLP myself. But do use a good lubricant. Makes a world of difference.
 
aza77 said:
I did the dishwashing soap and water a bunch of times and it's still a bit gritty. Does a little bit of vaseline work well?

If not, anything else which I might have laying around the house?

Thanks a lot guys. :)
Click to expand...

I wouldn't recommend vaseline to lubricate a knife pivot.

Do you have any 3-in-1, mineral oil, or silicone spray?
Any one of those would do a decent job.
 
Toothpaste can ease burrs - wash it out with warm sudsy water followed by a rinse - then lube. RemOil & Breakfree/CLP are gun cleaner/lubes - available in small aerosols at the Sporting section of Wally World for $3-$4. The solvent vehicle they use can float out trash, too - and leaves a bit of Teflon in it's wake. Stay away from the sandpaper... shape a super-fine emery board to fit the slot, if you feel the need... better yet, send it back to Cabela's for exchange - or Buck in ID for service, if it's still gritty. I've never experienced that in a Buck 110.

Stainz
 
awesome...thanks so much for the advice...it's invaluable. I am pretty sure that it's the tang that's causing the problem. The coating is wearing off there and I think it's making it a little rough when the lock slides over it. You think that could be it?

If I put toothpaste on it and open and close it a bunch of times...will it smooth things out? Also, isn't the toothpaste hard to get out afterwards?
 
Guyon said:
Allen, what scale material is that?
Click to expand...
It's walnut.
There's a better pic on the "Let's see those 110's" thread.

I've have gotten so many compliments on those scales that I'm considering walnut for my next Custom Shoppe 110....but I still might go with the sambar stag....I just can't decide.
:o
 
okay...i spoke a little soon...for some reason, it's become catchy again. After using the toothpaste, I noticed that more of the coating was coming off of the tang (not all of it though)...do you think that is the problem and should I try and scrape the rest away?

None of my other 110's have been this stubborn... I must've washed and dried it almost fifteen times already.
 
I think maybe you have identified your problem. I don't think this part of the blade should have any 'coating'. I'm guessing you have got some kind of buildup there that needs to be removed.

schiesz
 
This part is definitely coated with the same stuff that is on the rest of the blade. It has been scraping away as I work the joint. Unfortunately the blade is now sticking in mid way. If I clean it again I'm sure it'll get better but so far I haven't had any luck getting it to be really smooth.

I'd like to do it without using and lubrication because the other ones I have don't require any so I know it's possible.

Thanks again for all the help :)
 
My AG 110 has a coated blade,but the tang is not coated,it looks like a mirror finish on the tang,I would say you need a dremel tool with a cotton wheel and some flitz polish on it.,Go ahead and polish the tang up removing the coating will make it open smooth.:thumbup:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top