How to make big holes?

This sounds really stupid, of course, but I was thinking about making a few Perrin-style blades and the only thing stopping me is making the big hole for the index finger. I assume one has two options: a really huge drill bit or reamer or filing by hand. I have previous experience with trying to use a round file to make a large hole and it wasn't a pleasant experience, and I don't think mt drill press would accept a bit as big as one needed for this. What's the secret? Are there big bits that are tapered so they fit standard drill press chucks or something? BTW, I'd be using 1/8" 1084 if that makes any difference. Also, no access to a bandsaw or any other worthwhile saw, for that matter.

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Steve Agocs, D.C.
http://www.geocities.com/Chiro75/frames.html


agocs_s@hotmail.com
 
I would use a piloted counterbore. With these you first drill a hole in the blade where you want the hole centered with a bit just a few thousants of an inch larger than the pilot shaft in the counterbore, then change to the counterbore, insert the pilot ithru the hole you just drilled and procede to drill thru the blade with the cutter portion of the counterbore. These are available in any size you want, some have changable pilots, some are fixed.
Go to ebay and do a search, there are ususlly lots of them there.
Mike

[This message has been edited by Mike Conner (edited 02-28-2001).]
 
I'd find a local metal fabrication shop and have them punch or drill em.

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Take care!! Michael
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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
You never stated what size hole...I a 7/8" and 1" bit that both fit in the 1/2" chuck on my drill press. What ever you drill thru make darn sure you clamp it down!

C Wilkins
 
I use a step drill bit.

the bottom is 1/4" and it goes up by small increments every 1/8"

Lowes has started to carry one that goes to 7/8" for $26

Enco has them and also MSC.

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The Infamous ShadedDude
http://www.inanimatemotion.com
Web Design and Hosting

 
if you know some one with a lathe you can have him or her turn down an inch and a half on the end of the drill to a dia that will fit in your chuck. its about a five min. job so even if you had to pay it probably would'nt cost much to get done.

chris

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I've been working on several index finger designs. I've used O1 tool steel 1/8" thick, 3/16" G10, and O1 tool steel 1/16" thick for a (I hate to use this term!) keyring sized knife.

If you're only doing a couple, here's what I've done. Mark the outline of your intended hole. Drill a series of 1/8" holes around the marking. I got mine so they almost touch each other. Then take a dremel drill with a fiberglass cut off wheel. Play "connect the dots". In case you're tempted...this is a bad time to test the hole for fit on your finger...ouch. After that, use a grinding bit on the dremel to smooth the pointed perforations off. Then, put a large tapered rotary gringing bit (larger at the bottom then your final hole) in your drill press. This will evenly shape your final hole, and give you a nice taper to the hole instead of a hard edge.

I don't live too far south of Holland MI if you want to come down and give it a try with my equipment.

Good luck,
Allan
whiteknight9999@hotmail.com

[This message has been edited by White Knight (edited 03-01-2001).]
 
I second Tom's hole saw idea. You will get the best looking hole for the buck
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Once you have the arbor you can buy different size cutters. You will also be able to drill the the largest hole with the least amount of drill press horsepower.
Use a good cutting fluid and run it rather slow.
Neil

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Talonite......Stellite
Hand Made Knives..High Tech Materials
blackwoodknives.com
 
Thanks, Mr. Blackwood!

Large twist drills are dangerous tools!. Make a thick jig with a guide hole that clamps the part to your drill press table so you won't experience "propeller syndrome!"

The problem with using regular twist drills in relatively thin stock is that last little bit of material you're trying to remove. Many times, a twist drill will grab that last chip and twist, burn, or break something. Large twist drills can also chatter violently when starting a hole in hard material. In most applications where "large" holes are to be drilled and I don't have a jig, I prefer to "step drill" up to the final diameter by 1/16" increments.

Even so, that would put a lot of wear on a lot of drill bits if the final diameter was 1". A good hole saw would be more efficient ($) in this application.
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Tom Anderson
Hand Crafted Knives
 
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