How to make "S" guard for a Bowie

jim moyer

jim moyer

Joined
Dec 8, 2005
Messages
1,158
This is how I make ”S” guards for my Bowie Knives.

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The jig is very simple to make. The steel is mild and the backing piece is brass. The holes and pin are acting as a third hand holding things together while I line them up in the post vise.

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The guard is made with ¼ inch 360 brass designed with an artist template.

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With a 3 lb hammer I make the first curve than repeat this step for the opposite curve.
The guard is now shaped and ready to clean up.

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Here is the finished knife

BF75.jpg

BF75a.jpg
 
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That is slicker than snot Jim, thanks for sharing that technique with us!!!!!!!!
 
I love this kind of thing, simple and effective. I would have never thought of it! Thanks Jim!
 
Thanks for doing the tutorial Jim.

I know it's a bit late for this knife, but when you do another could you show in a bit more detail exactly how the guard is fitted to the tang as well as the ricasso? I've read all the tutorials I can find on fitting guards but I'm still pulling my hair out (what little is left) when trying to fit the guard to my first bowie.

Thanks,
Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
Teknition said:
Thanks for doing the tutorial Jim.

I know it's a bit late for this knife, but when you do another could you show in a bit more detail exactly how the guard is fitted to the tang as well as the ricasso? I've read all the tutorials I can find on fitting guards but I'm still pulling my hair out (what little is left) when trying to fit the guard to my first bowie.

Thanks,
Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
Click to expand...

All I do is mill the slot in the guard so that it is 2-3 thousands under the thickness of the blade area you are asking about before bending. Then I drive it on with a piece of hard wood that has been slotted after bending and clean up..

I will try to put photos out later today or tomorrow as I need to make a supply run this morning.
 
I got to agree, that's really slick! It would sure save on some expensive NS being wasted and save a lot of shop work. Hey, nice knife, too.
 
Thank you for sharing that. I tried bending with a big spanner and it snapped the brass. It seems hamering it is the way.
 
Thanks for the additional pics Jim. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

Are the cheeks of the tang milled at all or is the ricasso and tang the same thickness?

Where the guard meets the top and bottom edge of the tang is there any clearance there?

One last question, is there a radius where the tang meets the ricasso?

Brad
www.AndersonKnives.ca
 
Teknition said:
Thanks for the additional pics Jim. I have a few more questions if you don't mind.

Are the cheeks of the tang milled at all or is the ricasso and tang the same thickness?

Where the guard meets the top and bottom edge of the tang is there any clearance there?

One last question, is there a radius where the tang meets the ricasso?

Brad

www.AndersonKnives.ca
Click to expand...

Thanks to everyone who posted their thank yous and appreciations.

I will see if I can answer your questions Brad.

The ricasso and tang are the same thickness.

Where the guard meets the top and bottom edge of the tang is there any clearance there? No, when you drive the brass down with the hardwood jig any slack will disappear' My shoulders on these blade are filed with a filing jig for very close tolerances. I even mill the shoulders when I think of it when the blade has been annealed after forging.

You third or last question answer is yes.
 
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