How to peen wood handles

I

itrade

Joined
Jul 3, 2002
Messages
645
OK Here's the deal. On a full tang knife, using stabilized burl, I'd like to peen the pins, but I don't see how it can be done and use epoxy?

Issues: If I epoxy first, then push the pins I'll have epoxy in the holes. If I peen after the epoxy is hard, it'll break up the epoxy around the pin. If I peen the epoxy wet I'll still have epoxy in there and it'll show up or will it? Doesn't that make a mess.

Should I even attempt this without a pin press? Won't hammering on a 416 pin run a huge risk of either splitting the wood before getting consistent peening effect or the odds of stricking the wood is ....

Do you epoxy it up, clamp, remove, clean the pins, wait for it to set, and then peen?

I know some of you do this, and I think it's a great idea. I just don't see how I can pull it off.

Steve
 
I do mine wet. Cut the pins close, just enough to peen a little bit, (maybe about 1/16 of an inch sticking out). You wont need clamps cause the pins hold it place. Flatten on the belt sander and polish. Obviously the pins add strength but the holding power is in the epoxy.
 
I do mine as a two step process. Epoxy first, let dry. Then come back and drill the holes through the wood and tang at the same time. Although peening pins in wood calls for some delicacy of touch, it is very doable. Chamfer the pin holes slightly, make sure you pins are a firm push fit in the holes, and peen with lots of little blows with a small hammer. Oh, ya, what ever the pin stock, make sure it is annealed dead soft. Brass pin stock is usually in a work hardened state, to the point of being springy. Nails make great pin stock if you want an iron pin. They are made of a very low carbon steel engineered specifically for ductility. I would say never use "drill rod" for pins unless you plan to epoxy them in place and do no peening.
 
Have everything ready. Butter the slabs with epoxy, put the handle down on one, set the other on, and take each pin, scoop it in the epoxy, and shove it in. You don't have to peen them, in fact, it's a good idea not to. Big chance of cracking your scales. Clamp everything up, and when dry, grind to shape. If the pins are clean(acetone wipe), they will not come out.
 
Mike Hull makes me feel better about the way I've been doing it.

I pre-drill the tang before heat treat. Epoxy a scale. Cure. Drill through the scale from the tang side. Epoxy the next scale. Cure. Drill through from the first scale side. Cut pins to a bit over length. Score the pins near the center of their length. Roll in epoxy and press through the pin holes leaving approx. the same length sticking out each side. Cure. Grind to scale surface. No peening.

Roger
 
FWIW here's how I do it:


Without a bolster:
Clamp one slab to the tang.
Drill the holes.
Clamp the second slab to the first and drill thru.
Now I can pin the slabs together and shape the front edges to match perfectly.


With Bolster
Set the bevel on the dovetail
Clamp one slab in place
Drill the holes
Clamp the other slab in place (on the other side I learned;) )
Drill holes

Now I put the whole thing together with glue and clamp.

Just the way I've done it.

Steve
 
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