How to Polish Scratches Out of Nickel Bolsters:

Quiet

Quiet

"That Guy"
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I didn't uncover anything when doing a search, so if anyone has a thread where this is already covered, by all means direct me there!

That said, I have multiple Traditionals which have the polished nickel bolsters that all have been scratched up by carrying them, and I'm wondering how best to refinish them back to being shiny. I know I won't be able to polish all the scratches out, but I WOULD at least like to try to make them look better. I have little experience with this side of the "Maintenance house", so to speak, so I'm reaching out to the folks here for help.

I appreciate any advice, even if, as I said, it's just linking me to any threads where this has been discussed before.

Thank you, gents!
 
Sand them with 600-800 grit sandpaper, then 1000, then 2000, then polish with Simichrome on a soft cloth. The'll look like new. Don't get the polish inside the liners- jut "wet" the cloth with it.
 
Bill, do I wet the bolsters with anything before sandpapering them, or just outright dry sandpaper? I appreciate your help, by the way.
 
Mother's polish has always polished the bolsters on my Case knives very well...
 
Use wet/dry automotive paper. Use it dry.
Mothers, Flitz, etc. all work. I prefer Simichrome.
 
91bravo said:
Mother's [Mag Wheel] polish has always polished the bolsters on my Case knives very well...
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This is the correct answer. :)

Actually, there are many correct answers. But Mother's applied with a rag will do the trick quickly, and without much expense. And you can buy it anywhere.
 
I would first want to verify that they are solid nickel and not simply nickel-plated carbon steel. If you sand them and they are plated, you could remove too much of the plating and expose a lot of rust-prone steel.
 
The polishes (Mother's, Flitz, Simichrome, etc) won't remove heavy, deep scratches on their own. As Bill said, a sequence of wet/dry sandpaper from ~600 and up usually handles that well. Really deep dents or dings might need a coarser grit to start out (320/400), but most can be done @ ~ 600-grit and up. Finishing through 2000-grit, and THEN following with the polishing paste will have them looking brand new again. If scratches are light, you might start at around ~800-grit and see if that's enough to clean them up; if so, you won't have to spend as much time cleaning up coarser scratches from lower-grit sandpaper.

Hint:
Wrapping a piece of wet/dry paper around a flexible rubber eraser makes a nice 'sanding block' which evenly distributes sanding pressure (reduces flat-spotting) and also conforms around & over the rounded profile of bolsters & such. Makes for more even-looking sanding patterns, which will make for better results at the high end of the grit range. Make sure to COMPLETELY remove scratches from coarser grits at each & every grit step. Coarse scratches missed in later steps will stand out like a sore thumb when the polish starts to come up at 800+ grit and beyond.


David
 
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This is all excellent advice. Thank you all very much.

Killgar, the knives in question are a couple of Case knives and a couple of GEC knives. What might the probability be that they aren't full nickel?
 
Quiet said:
This is all excellent advice. Thank you all very much.

Killgar, the knives in question are a couple of Case knives and a couple of GEC knives. What might the probability be that they aren't full nickel?
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I'm not familiar enough with either of those brands to say.

Before I start sanding on a bolster I like to make sure I know what's underneath the surface BEFORE I start sanding. I offer this advice to anyone who might read this thread and decide to start sanding on their bolsters. :)
 
Like Bill says, starting with 6-800 and going through the grits, then finishing with paste is best for a flawless finish.

I use to do this, only to have it last untill the next use.
Nowdays I prefer the scratches and just occasionally hit it with fine crocus. Puts a shine back on but leaves the character. Same with my non stainless steels.
I suggest you try this first. If not satisfied, go with the whole process.
 
I use a bit of mouse pad with a little polish, lee valley green, or some of the other stuff I have, whatever really. Just a little buff to add the shine back, but it leaves the big scratches. doesn't take much at all
 
Few knives have plated bolsters. Case and GEC use nickel silver.
 
Quiet said:
This is all excellent advice. Thank you all very much.

Killgar, the knives in question are a couple of Case knives and a couple of GEC knives. What might the probability be that they aren't full nickel?
Click to expand...

Zero probability with either, as to plated bolsters anyway. All of Case's bolsters are solid; most are nickel (Case's standard line), and some higher-end knives, like the Bose collaboration knives, are stainless steel, and Case might've occasionally featured limited runs in brass or copper. None are plated though. GEC has a line of knives with 'iron' bolsters (carbon steel); again, they're solid, and not plated. The rest of theirs will be solid nickel.


David
 
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I've put chips in my bolsters by dropping them on concrete by accident. Try sanding out the imperfections by progressively working down to a finer grit. One thing I will add that I used with great success was using the finest belt (honing belt) on my Worksharp and working the bolster in a manner that allowed me to polish all the surfaces. It really did a great job and quickly too. Good luck
 
Tape the blade up first. Hand sand. Use a Dremel with a thick buffing wheel and some kind of compound. I usually hand sand up to about 2000 grit then follow with a Dremel with a coating of of about 8000 grit followed by a different wheel with semichrome. It'll leave a mirror finish. On rougher knives I just sand up to 600 grit followed by the semichrome.
 
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