How to protect wood while buffing metal bolster?

L

Leon Husock

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Jul 17, 2019
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I want to buff the copper bolster on this knife to a nice high shine, but the last time I let a buffing wheel with compound anywhere near (unstabilized) wood I had to use 60 grit sandpaper to get it out, and I never quite got it out of the spot where the wood met the bolster. Tape doesn't seem to solve this problem. Is there any way to protect the wood handle from the buffing compound getting into the pores (alternatively, does anyone know a good way to get the stuff out of wood?)
 
I find stabilized wood by K&G is less likely to pick up stain from a buffing wheel. I use 416 SS for all guards and bolsters and don't have much problem with buffing wheel stain. Brass and copper is a problem.
 
First sand to 1500 + so you spend less time on the buffer. Put electrical tape on the wood while buffing the bolster
 
I know this is less of a problem with stabilized wood, but I don't have any at the moment. And yeah, I know copper won't keep the same level of shine as after it's freshly polished, but buffing it to a high grit finish will still make it look better after it's oxidized (and it can always be shined back up with copper polish). I'll try the electrical tape, thanks.
 
another thing you can do is give the wood a coat of mineral oil before buffing. it will sink into the pores, and keep the compound from getting so deep in there. mineral oil will also draw compound out of handle materials. give it a heavy coat, let it sit for an hour, then wipe it all off with a clean cloth. you will see gray compound on the cloth. repeat.
 
john april said:
another thing you can do is give the wood a coat of mineral oil before buffing. it will sink into the pores, and keep the compound from getting so deep in there. mineral oil will also draw compound out of handle materials. give it a heavy coat, let it sit for an hour, then wipe it all off with a clean cloth. you will see gray compound on the cloth. repeat.
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Awesome! That’s super helpful. I’ll try that.
 
I finish the wood first and finalize it with a couple of coats of car wax. Then two wraps of blue painters tape. Works good even on very light woods like olive that is a grunge magnet ready to happen.
 
thats a great idea, the wax will probably work better to seal then pores than the mineral oil pre-buffing.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Wax will also remove most of the buffing compound if applied after buffing, too.
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Yeah its kinda amazing the stuff that comes off with the wax. After buffing the bolster I'll take the tape off and give the whole knife from tip to stern a another coat of wax. Thanks Tom.
 
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