How to put custom scales on a Buck 501 - with pictures!

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Sep 9, 2014
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This is a pretty straight forward mod but I took the time to take the pics so it is going up! Seriously though, it may help someone out someday...or at least give them the confidence to go for it! If you are new to this stuff make sure to wear safety gear...if you are a seasoned shop worker you have already seen the results if you don't ...so you do!

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Start with a Buck 501, mine was new and fresh out of the box.

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Grind or file off the heads of all four pins to just below the flat. I used an oscillating spindle sander but it can be done just as quickly with a file or even an angle or bench grinder. Use something thing to pry off the scale if need be. Mine had no adhesives.

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The pins will be just a little too long to fall out of the body on their own so nip them off with some dykes.

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Trace the original scales onto your material and cut with a bandsaw, scroll saw or any other saw you have. A jewelers saw or other handsaw will work... you could do it with a hack saw if you take your time. Leave a small amount of material around the edge...the pencil line will do if you make good cuts. Finish the shape with a sander, files or sand paper until they fit just right.

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Slight backtrack: Make sure that the thickness of your scale material is at least the thickness of the original. This can be done with a thicknessing sander, a belt sander or with some elbow grease. A 16th of an inch extra is a good idea, enough to be sure your aren't below the bolster but not so much that it is a pain to get rid of when you shape them.

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I will be using 2 part epoxy to fasten the scales so I want to rough up the body with a rasp (or file) and cover the pin and holes with a small piece of tape to keep the adhesive out of the knife. I used very thin masking tape. Scotch would work too, you just need a barrier.

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I inlaid mine at this point and laid everything out to check the fit one last time.

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Mix the epoxy and apply an even coat to both scales and clamp in place. Any clamps will do but make sure to look at the scales as you clamp to keep them where you want them. Things tend to slide on me when I give the clamps a good squeeze. Things to keep in mind: Clamp so it is sturdy but not crazy tight. The epoxy will hold as long as there is even squeeze. If you clamp too tight you may "adjust" the pinning on the blade and tighten up the action. Make sure that the squeeze out doesn't run into the knife, that would be bad.

Insert pic i forgot to take :confused:

After the epoxy sets, shape the scales to the bolsters using sandpaper. I use paper stuck to a granite or hardwood block to keep it real straight but hand sanding will work too. Start with rough grits (120/220) and work to the finer stuff (320/400/600). I do a lot of fine finish work so I run them through a series of fine papers, micromesh and a polish (600/800/1200/1600>MM2400/3200/6000/8000/12000) This is 100% not necessary but it looks great

Finished knife:

Unfortunately I had to remove the final pics from this "how to" because a mod deleted my braggin' pics thread in The Gallery. Not 100% sure why but Rycen said it was probably the pictures.

Here is link to that thread at least:

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...custom-ebony-scales-and-mother-of-pearl-inlay


Ebony looks so awesome with these nickel silver bolsters and I can't tell you how much better the 501 is when you get rid of that "Dymondwood". Planning this mod on a 505 for after Thanksgiving. Thanks for reading!
 
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I hope that someday someone reads this and decides to go for it on their own blade. I stalked the forum for a long long time picking up ideas before I started...when I did I wished I had started a long time ago. Only way to learn is to get in there and get at it.

Thanks for the compliments, I get a kick out of doing the how to threads. Hope to do a lot more.
 
It's not clear from the photos or description, but did you put a satin finish on the bolsters and exposed metal parts?
 
Nice photo posting.

I put the tape on the inside , blade well, then tiny amount of epoxy will get in them and help hold scale. I use one or more popsicle sticks with wraps of tape to the width of the blade well behind the taped holes to keep the tape from poping loose and support the blade well while clamping. The older brass liner versions need this support to keep them from bending in middle. In the three spring model 300s the Delrin scales use this method to hold the scale tight. the fairly large holes in the liners make a sort of plastic rivet head of delrin as they melt it against the liner. You can use this slightly tapered hole to let epoxy grab in the model 300 three springs. Rivet holes are smaller in the 500 and 700 series but you should get a small toe hold.

If you can find Loctite E - 120HP epoxy, it is the best.

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AreBeeBee- I forgot to mention that! I finished the entire knife as I described above. This leaves the bolsters with a finish close to chrome. I prefer the satin with the ebony so I hit the bolsters again with a 600 or 800 grit in only one direction. This leaves that satin or brushed look.

Mathews - The 110s I have had have the hinge/lock pin coming through the scale as well so it would be a little different.

300 - That's a great idea and I will try that on my next one. I will be doing a similar inlay on a 505 after the holiday and need all the space I can get on those super thin scales. I'll keep an eye out for the 120HP.
 
I guess so, David. The pin that runs through the body that the lock is hinged on. Didn't know what is was called :)
 
Great write-up! And I agree, the ebony looks great on this knife. I put ebony scales on my 501 a month or so ago, and it hasn't left my pocket yet.
 
Very cool. Being a truck driver for 35 years, the Peterbilt really caught my eye, even though I've mainly only driven Kenworths :D
 
Glsj- did you use a similar procedure? Always looking for an improvement!

It was almost identical to the way you did it. The only power tool I used was a dremel to remove the top of the pins, other than that it was all sandpaper and a small hacksaw for fitting. It was my first attempt at something like this, and although I made a few small mistakes, I was very happy with the way it turned out.
 
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It was almost identical to the way you did it. The only power tool I used was a dremel to remove the top of the pins, other than that it was all sandpaper and a small hacksaw for fitting. It was my first attempt at something like this, and although I made a few small mistakes, I was very happy with the way it turned out.

Awesome! That looks great, this mod really makes the 501 look like a whole different knife in my opinion. Great minds......:)
 
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