How to put satin finishes on traditional folding knives?--questions

Bladenoobie1

Bladenoobie1

Joined
Jul 20, 2012
Messages
1,261
I've already done the first step and figured out how to put extremely clean brushed/satin finishes on bolsters, but I'd like to figure out how to do the same on blades. I do not have a belt grinder so I simply can't scotchbrite on a new nice finish. What I am trying to figure out how to do is to add a clean brushed/satin look going horizontally along the edge of the blade. I know others have done so and I'm asking if you have, to please post how you did it in this thread. I specifically want this in the traditional forum not the MTE b/c I want to apply this finish specifically to small traditional knives so mods please do not move this thread.

Thanks,
BN
 
I use different grades of sandpaper and the final finish on my satin knives is done with a Knife Eraser block. You can find them online by searching, sometimes in knife stores. The Knife Eraser block is around 800-1000 grit, in my opinion. It is easier to work with and not so hard on the hands. It is made for knife cleaning. Here are a couple of my old Primble knives with that finish:

2jv86a.jpg
 
I am not sure of the grit on the Knife Eraser block - my guess is between 800 and 1000 grit, probably closer to 800 grit, but, different from 800 grit. I get questions all the time about that finish via email and PM's from other members that like that look. It is by no means shiny and it is much easier to handle than sandpaper. :)
 
I use different grits of sandpaper with backing sticks. You can make your own backing sticks. I use a hard backing stick until final grit finishing. Then I use a backing stick that has thin leather glued to it. The leather cushion gives a nice clean finish. I also use glass and window cleaner and wet finish. The hard backing stick helps keep you from "washing" out the grind lines. Crisp clean grind lines add to the appeal of the final finish.

Chris
 
Chris Montgomery said:
I use different grits of sandpaper with backing sticks. You can make your own backing sticks. I use a hard backing stick until final grit finishing. Then I use a backing stick that has thin leather glued to it. The leather cushion gives a nice clean finish. I also use glass and window cleaner and wet finish. The hard backing stick helps keep you from "washing" out the grind lines. Crisp clean grind lines add to the appeal of the final finish.

Chris
Click to expand...

I agree with keeping the grind lines and if you only use the eraser for the final rubbing, it will do no harm. I always enjoy new ideas. I have purchased sanding sticks from Wilson's Combat, but, have not made any. Can you post some finished knives that you used your method on - I would be interested in seeing pics?? :)

Mark - I would enjoy seeing some closeups pics of your satin finishes as well. :)
 
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Primble said:
I am not sure of the grit on the Knife Eraser block - my guess is between 800 and 1000 grit, probably closer to 800 grit, but, different from 800 grit. I get questions all the time about that finish via email and PM's from other members that like that look. It is by no means shiny and it is much easier to handle than sandpaper. :)
Click to expand...
So are you doing this finish on the blades? In those photos of yours is the finish you applied done on the bolster and the blades, or just the bolsters? Also is this the eraser block you are talking about:
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/UC135A/Super-Rust-and-Tarnish-Eraser-One-Eraser-Block

I want to put a fine satin finish on the blade, but at the same time not introduce flat spots or whatnot. I've found what works for me getting clean brushed look on bolsters, but I haven't done so for my blades. The reason I ask is because I may want to to this to restore old beat up knives that do not already have a nice aged look.
 
Primble said:
I am not sure of the grit on the Knife Eraser block - my guess is between 800 and 1000 grit, probably closer to 800 grit, but, different from 800 grit. I get questions all the time about that finish via email and PM's from other members that like that look. It is by no means shiny and it is much easier to handle than sandpaper. :)
Click to expand...
So are you doing this finish on the blades? In those photos of yours is the finish you applied done on the bolster and the blades, or just the bolsters? Also is this the eraser block you are talking about:
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/UC135A/Super-Rust-and-Tarnish-Eraser-One-Eraser-Block

I want to put a fine satin finish on the blade, but at the same time not introduce flat spots or whatnot. I've found what works for me getting clean brushed look on bolsters, but I haven't done so for my blades. The reason I ask is because I may want to to this to restore old beat up knives that do not already have a nice aged look.
 
Bladenoobie1 said:
So are you doing this finish on the blades? In those photos of yours is the finish you applied done on the bolster and the blades, or just the bolsters? Also is this the eraser block you are talking about:
http://www.knifecenter.com/item/UC135A/Super-Rust-and-Tarnish-Eraser-One-Eraser-Block

I want to put a fine satin finish on the blade, but at the same time not introduce flat spots or whatnot. I've found what works for me getting clean brushed look on bolsters, but I haven't done so for my blades. The reason I ask is because I may want to to this to restore old beat up knives that do not already have a nice aged look.
Click to expand...

Yep - that is the block eraser I was talking about and yes I use it CAREFULLY on bolsters shields, and blades. One needs to be careful around the nail nicks and swedges to keep away from them and avoid rounding the lines. I usually lay the knife blades on a scrap piece of soft wood , 1x6x6 piece, to support the blades. On my old knives I usually start with 320 or 400 grit sandpaper and get any bad spots out with that and only final finish with the eraser bar. I just like the look of the eraser block finish a little better than sandpaper. Keep in mind that I am not talking about cleaning badly rusted old knives - I usually buy a pretty decent old knife. It saves a lot of work and not so much metal smoothing. I usually stop when the knife looks proud again, before it looks like a new knife. I like to leave some small remnants of patina or light pitting to show the age of an old knife. I think the knife gets a new chance to get the GOOD KIND of patina, after a light to medium cleaning. ;):)
 
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