How to quench a hammer?

Joined
Nov 26, 2001
Messages
1,375
I've heard various theories about this, but don't know how to do it properly.
Somebody says just quench and then temper, others say quench should be done with a water jet on the center of the face, or the corners will be too brittle...
Somebody can help?
 
Thank you very much Sam!
So, big tank of water with a couple handfuls of salt and a dab of dishwasher soap in it.
 
The thermal mass of a hammer head made a full and agitated brine quench essential. This is needed to convert the steel to martensite. After it is the right structure, tempering can make it the desired hardness. Chipping at the sides is a sign of not enough tempering. A good 10 minute soak at austenitization temperature is important,too.
 
Thank you very much Sam!
So, big tank of water with a couple handfuls of salt and a dab of dishwasher soap in it.


If you're quenching a 10XX steel - yeah.

If you're quenching something deep hardening (4150 etc) you might do better with a fast oil. If using an oil - stay submerged while agitating or risk igniting the fumes (and your eyebrows), heavy stuff stays hot a lot longer than a blade.

You're going to want at least a gallon of quench per pound.
 
If you're quenching a 10XX steel - yeah.

If you're quenching something deep hardening (4150 etc) you might do better with a fast oil. If using an oil - stay submerged while agitating or risk igniting the fumes (and your eyebrows), heavy stuff stays hot a lot longer than a blade.

You're going to want at least a gallon of quench per pound.

Yeh I was using 1045, hence the need for the brine soap solution. I used Park's 50 for the other hammer I made from 4340. Either way agitation is key!
 
Uhm... the hammer is made out of a 2 pound sledge similar to this

mazzetta_manico_legno.jpg


I don't know the exact steel.
I also don't have a source of quenching oils. All I have is a 5.56 NATO ammo can full of hydraulic fluid and another full of 15W40 motor oil.
The amount of oil is too small, I fear.
I can try plain water... shouldn't it be less harsh than brine?
Or I can get a larger container and fill it with 15W40, and quenchi in it. If it remains too soft, I can try quenching in water...
What do you think?:confused:




... guess is some tool steel. Unfortunately,
 
If you don't know the steel, you're guessing at tomcats.

I've used old 18-wheeler truck axles, many of which were 0.45% carbon content, a medium carbon steel. Ideally, one doesn't harden the eye. If the entire head is heated to a cherry red and hardened in liquid, there is a good chance that the thin eye cheek may crack. In doing so, the eye quenches from the inside out and outside in, hardening before the hammer faces do, thus causing a difference in the contraction rate. Not good.

After normalizing the entire head, I take a localized cherry red heat on one of the faces at the edge of a coke fire. I quench vertically in water while agitating, withdrawing it when it quits screaming (making the cush sound). It should be around 150 - 200F when taken from the water; this helps prevent cracks. I abrade that face so that I may watch for tempering colors. The head goes into the vise, bare metal face upward.

I made a simple tempering tool of 7/8" square MS. It is a turned eye which makes a snug fit over the hammer head. I left enough extending from the circle to form a haft. The tool is used for conducting heat. Heating the circle to a full welding heat, it is placed over the hammer face until the face draws to a dark straw color, 465ºF. I hold that temper by pouring water on the face.

For the other face or peen, I use the "wet rag method." I wrap a wet rag around the tempered end and using large bolt tongs, I take the localized heat on the other face. The rag protects the finished face from undue heat. Again, I quench vertically keeping the rag in place. Agitate. This newly abraded face or peen faces upward and the head is clamped in the vise. The rag stays on while tempering. If it's a hammer face, I treat it with the tempering tool, as above. If it is a peen, I temper with an oxy tip flame "washing" the area near the eye, thereby chasing color toward the peen end, and this normally goes to a purple, 525ºF. Another water pour.

This is not a "my way or the highway." I'm just sharing my experiences.

http://www.turleyforge.com Granddaddy of Blacksmith Schools
 
Last edited:
Back
Top