How to re- center your blade tip if needed (top secret) good method

B

blairtech

Joined
Nov 26, 2009
Messages
49
So... I did a little work on my ZT 0566, ( http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...proved-pivot-amp-more?p=13329899#post13329899 ), and after re-assembly, the blade was too close to the frame-lock side for my liking. Not rubbing, but being a right-hand thumb stud opener for me, I never wanted it to even come close, after eventual bearing wear or whatever. I wanted it biased toward the G10 (actually now CF) side. I've only seen one youtube vid on how you might try to correct, but loosening all the screws, putting the blade at 90 degrees, or simply wedging with paper, and then re-tightening, didn't seem the best way to correct (IMO).. I think the paper wedge MAY actually help a little, in moving the pivot axis to a slightly different angle, but I think what I've shown here in the pics will have an even better influence in correcting that blade centering, should yours need it. Loosen the pivot, and ALL the handle/scale screws. Use your $5.00 clamp from harbor freight, and clamp it as shown. (opposite, of course, if you need to go the other way. DON'T apply 50 pounds of force, and break your knife :( . That would suck. Just enough pressure to re-orient the parts a little and move the blade. If it helps, but not quite as far as you need, start over, loosen the screws MORE, tap and wiggle the blade and handles to re-seat the screw heads in a better position, and then clamp and snug the screws again. I'm pretty sure this method should correct most centering issues, short of a bent blade, or something mechanically not flat and parallel, or the pivot axis just not being 90 degrees to the handle. Try the paper wedge too... Anyway... worked great for me first shot, and I've never seen this posted before, so maybe I helped somebody out :thumbup: good luck
center_1.jpgcenter_2.jpg
 
Doing that the inverted way will also make your lockup earlier.

/themoreyouknow
 
You dont even really need the clamp. you can put a knife in a dresser drawer with slight pressure. Clamping isnt really necessary. Basically all your doing is influencing the varied tolerances. Every knife is going to have a small amount of give and it really doesnt take clamping force to max these limitations. This is why the paper wedge method is so popular. It achieves the same results without risking bending or damaging parts.
 
fishface5 said:
that's a great idea if simpler techniques have not solved the problem!
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wow... Seemed simple and effective enough to me. But, a lot of quick replies, and maybe by some who have corrected on many more knives than me... :( .. Also to purpled, I'm NOT putting a lot of force on anything- just enough to move the handle(s) and the blade, and hold them there, while I tighten the screws back down. AND... I guess wedging it in a dresser drawer could do about the same thing, if you can hold it and tighten things back up at the same time. Just trying to help here, since I've not seen a great way to do this personally, and this worked just perfect for me. Seemed quick and easy.. Maybe I should have researched the forums more, before I had fun posting and got all bashed... OUCH... somebody put out the flames :eek: Don't EVER use this method! I take it all back. It won't work. I was only joking. I will not try to be helpful again.
jk
 
I've never had to do this, but it looks like a cool way to keep things where you want them before tightening up if you are having problems.

blairtech said:
Maybe I should have researched the forums more, before I had fun posting and got all bashed... OUCH... somebody put out the flames :eek: Don't EVER use this method! I take it all back. It won't work. I was only joking. I will not try to be helpful again.
jk
Click to expand...

Don't be too sensitive, it doesn't look like you're taking a bashing at all here.
 
evilgreg said:
I've never had to do this, but it looks like a cool way to keep things where you want them before tightening up if you are having problems.



Don't be too sensitive, it doesn't look like you're taking a bashing at all here.
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Yeah, I know... I've been bashed way worse, believe me! :) Not that I trust someone named 'Evilgreg' smoothing things over though!!! hahahahhaha!
too funny.. None taken, none given, not going to cut anybody.... today .....
 
blairtech said:
So... I did a little work on my ZT 0566, ( http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...proved-pivot-amp-more?p=13329899#post13329899 ), and after re-assembly, the blade was too close to the frame-lock side for my liking. Not rubbing, but being a right-hand thumb stud opener for me, I never wanted it to even come close, after eventual bearing wear or whatever. I wanted it biased toward the G10 (actually now CF) side. I've only seen one youtube vid on how you might try to correct, but loosening all the screws, putting the blade at 90 degrees, or simply wedging with paper, and then re-tightening, didn't seem the best way to correct (IMO).. I think the paper wedge MAY actually help a little, in moving the pivot axis to a slightly different angle, but I think what I've shown here in the pics will have an even better influence in correcting that blade centering, should yours need it. Loosen the pivot, and ALL the handle/scale screws. Use your $5.00 clamp from harbor freight, and clamp it as shown. (opposite, of course, if you need to go the other way. DON'T apply 50 pounds of force, and break your knife :( . That would suck. Just enough pressure to re-orient the parts a little and move the blade. If it helps, but not quite as far as you need, start over, loosen the screws MORE, tap and wiggle the blade and handles to re-seat the screw heads in a better position, and then clamp and snug the screws again. I'm pretty sure this method should correct most centering issues, short of a bent blade, or something mechanically not flat and parallel, or the pivot axis just not being 90 degrees to the handle. Try the paper wedge too... Anyway... worked great for me first shot, and I've never seen this posted before, so maybe I helped somebody out :thumbup: good luck
View attachment 425686View attachment 425687
Click to expand...

That's pretty smart. I use my fingers but it gets tricky. That is a good idea, thanks!

And as to the haters... whatever. You are sharing a good idea, and they could just move on without reply, but instead choose to contribute nothing. Whatever!
 
The dresser drawer idea is good too, never thought of that either.

But l like the vise idea, because the screws are accessible.
 
wsafetymode said:
Smart idea!
Haters... haters everywhere....
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Awww... now don't be getting anybody riled up again.. :) Those posters have probably been messing with more knives, longer than me, and maybe had good enough luck with just loosening the screws and wedging some paper in there to push the blade a bit. I was just shootin' for maximum control over the results I was going to have, and hopefully only have to do it once! Thanks though... and there's usually more than one way to git-er-done...
 
There is a fella, jdavis882, also called CrimsonTideShooter, who has posted this method (YouTube) with a Sebenza in the past. Your idea is the same as his. He uses it to center the blade, as well as to get a lesser percentage lockup on the tang. Many Sebenzas are "normally" up to 80% or so on the tang, and they stay there without a problem. But you can reduce that percentage to perhaps 30% or so when using the method that you (and jdavis) describe.
Good work, and thanks for your help.
Here is his link...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw3TPYFOp_c
 
Sonnydaze said:
There is a fella, jdavis882, also called CrimsonTideShooter, who has posted this method (YouTube) with a Sebenza in the past. Your idea is the same as his. He uses it to center the blade, as well as to get a lesser percentage lockup on the tang. Many Sebenzas are "normally" up to 80% or so on the tang, and they stay there without a problem. But you can reduce that percentage to perhaps 30% or so when using the method that you (and jdavis) describe.
Good work, and thanks for your help.
Here is his link...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zw3TPYFOp_c
Click to expand...

And thanks for the link too, Sonnydaze... It actually looks like he was starting off with the blade way off-center and more engagement than designed for, so he was basically correcting back to centered, with a more average lockup. That said though, he was basically moving the scales in an opposing way to correct the blade centering, as I did, though using just his fingers instead of in a clamp like me. Same concept either way, and still more effective than the 'wedge a piece of paper' method. Our way acts more directly in changing the axis of the pivot bolt than the paper wedge. With the paper wedge method, once the paper wedge is removed... the blade is going to spring back toward the original off-center position again a few degrees, just because of the play between the blade hole and the pivot.
The paper wedge 'MAY' be enough, if you only need a slight correction, but opposing pressure on the ends of the scales as we show, is a little more direct and effective... Now, just DON'T even get me started on ZT's lack of sufficiently sized pivot washers in their 'speed-safe' (whatever that means) knives. just don't... :( Thanks man.....
 
When I looked up removing the AO on the 0566 on YouTube the fella had a trick for centering the blade that worked for me.

He loosened the scale screws, opened the knife to 90 degrees and torqued the pivot screw so the blade would barely move, then tightened the scales screws and unloosened the pivot bit by bit until it was right where he wanted it. Ok method? My 0566 still functions fine.
 
mrdabble said:
When I looked up removing the AO on the 0566 on YouTube the fella had a trick for centering the blade that worked for me.

He loosened the scale screws, opened the knife to 90 degrees and torqued the pivot screw so the blade would barely move, then tightened the scales screws and unloosened the pivot bit by bit until it was right where he wanted it. Ok method? My 0566 still functions fine.
Click to expand...

Honestly, that method didn't look very effective (to me), and if you read down in the comments, it was tried by others, and didn't have much effect. I wanted something more foolproof. The paper wedge pushing the blade over has a history of working better. And the method jdavis and I have shown, should work every time, as you're holding the loosened parts where you need them, and then re-tightening everything. NOTE: If you have to gradually loosen the pivot until the blade gets centered, then something is wrong! (because the spring is pushing on the blade). That means, as the tiny washer on the G10 side wears, that the blade will go out of center again. Better to have all the parts aligned correctly, and lock everything down. And...... if you want it to stay that way for the life of your knife, I still suggest losing the tiny 5/16" diameter washer on the G10 side, and going with a much better pivot washer on that side, either from KAI/ZT, or usaknifemaker. You lose the spring, but in return get extreme smoothness, better blade alignment, a MUCH stronger pivot, and the longevity to stay that way. Takes some minor tinkering though....

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...proved-pivot-amp-more?p=13329899#post13329899

of course, if yours is fine, and you're happy... then never mind! :)
 
blairtech said:
Awww... now don't be getting anybody riled up again.. :) Those posters have probably been messing with more knives, longer than me, and maybe had good enough luck with just loosening the screws and wedging some paper in there to push the blade a bit. I was just shootin' for maximum control over the results I was going to have, and hopefully only have to do it once! Thanks though... and there's usually more than one way to git-er-done...
Click to expand...

Most of these guys are just messing with you, but there will always be a handful who think every opinion/method you have is wrong and that their opinion is fact. Thanks for posting this.
 
mrdabble said:
When I looked up removing the AO on the 0566 on YouTube the fella had a trick for centering the blade that worked for me.

He loosened the scale screws, opened the knife to 90 degrees and torqued the pivot screw so the blade would barely move, then tightened the scales screws and unloosened the pivot bit by bit until it was right where he wanted it. Ok method? My 0566 still functions fine.
Click to expand...
This is the quickest way I have found for centering the blade. Followed by placing a wooden wedge between the sides to take the force off the locking bar and then adjusting the blade so that it just falls freely. There have been a few ways mentioned many times before and I have tried pressure in opposite directions on the frame using my fingers. Blairtech's method makes it a bit easier to adjust using his method. Any time someone finds a method that work for them, I for one am always open to seeing how they accomplish it. I for one don't know everything about knives so I enjoy being here. I learn from others and try to pass along what has worked for me.
Ron
 
phosgene said:
What is the paper wedge method,please?Thanks a lot.
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Please look at the picture above. Note the yellow paper wedged between the inner liner and the blade. It's one of the most basic ways to re-center a bit. Loosen all your pivot and handle screws. Take a folded over piece of paper, or little wooden wedge or whatever, and wedge it between the inner liner and the blade, to push the blade over in the direction you want to correct. Re-tighten the screws, and see if it got you where you wanted to be. If not enough, then loosen again, and try putting pressure on opposite ends of the handle scales, and you can watch the blade move to where you need, and re-tighten. Clear as mud now? :)
 
blairtech said:
Please look at the picture above. Note the yellow paper wedged between the inner liner and the blade. It's one of the most basic ways to re-center a bit. Loosen all your pivot and handle screws. Take a folded over piece of paper, or little wooden wedge or whatever, and wedge it between the inner liner and the blade, to push the blade over in the direction you want to correct. Re-tighten the screws, and see if it got you where you wanted to be. If not enough, then loosen again, and try putting pressure on opposite ends of the handle scales, and you can watch the blade move to where you need, and re-tighten. Clear as mud now? :)
Click to expand...

I see I see,thanks very much.:D
 
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