How to remove beadblasting on 154 cm if i dont want to...

T

Threethreethree

Joined
May 30, 2013
Messages
117
Yo guys

I got a Benchmade auto resistor which i just reprofiled 2 days ago, i never really warmed up for the finish mainly because it weakens corrosion resistance a lot... So i wanted to buff it off but i dont really want to botch the edge i just done, making scotch brite a no go, i got a decent fake dremel but i dont really want to powerpolish as the wheel is small and that will be a pain to make the polishing even.
Also i don't want to take it down ( at least not now ) as i never disassembled an axis lock and even less an auto.

So i planned to use a flat balsa bit and put white compound on it and rub it manually, i would like to know if it is possible to do it that way without spending a whole week on it or getting a tendonitis... Given the knife is a flat saber grind and the swedge is ground flat too the balsa block will make contact everywhere.

Im not really into mirror polish, i just want the beadblasting to go off and get a decent hazy finish, i might even go for scotch brite satin lenghtwise when i i have to reprofile it next time.

I'm all ear if you got ideas...
 
Depending on which 'white' compound you have, it may leave a pretty high polish. I have some Ryobi white compound that polishes very aggressively (fast). If you're not wanting to polish, but instead leave a satin-type finish, some wet/dry sandpaper wrapped snugly around your balsa block would do it better. Something in the 400-800 grit range would likely work best.


David
 
I dont know the grit but it does turn'carbon black' in a couple minutes of rubbing the said blade on it.

In fact i buffed the blade for maybe 10 minutes, the left side is a little bit more shiny but still needs loads of elbow grease, i already have twitches in my arm... I might try to do the grunt work with the dremel and finish it by hand.
 
A Dremel is a very risky process. I just recently took the bead blast off a blade because I hated how it made it rust. I use the wire poof wheel thing (no idea what it is called) and I got super lucky I didn't Butcher the edge. If the blade is flat ground, sandpaper will work much faster and be easier. If it is hollow ground just affix the sandpaper to a rounded surface (like a soda can) and if you are super worried about the edge put some clear finger nail polish on it (it will come right off with a little acetone).
 
I tried a few minutes with the dremel and a felt wheel and i gave up, kinda hate powertools and sharp edges...
So i went on with the balsa piece, in about 2 hours or so i had a nice shiny finish, no mirror yet but definitely not beadblasted anymore ( i think it was more a very fine stonewash though as i could see during the job very fine random scratch patterns), the black laser etched logos arent black anymore you can still see them when playing with the light they just look like very fine stampings, thats pretty cool !
I left the ricasso as it is, so the only marking left is 154 cm, almost sterile looking.
I had an issue with a faint line remaining less shiny at the edge shoulder so i used another balsa block in which i cut a groove lenghtwise, poured oil and compound then proceeded to slide back and forth to polish slightly above the shoulder, it worked like a charm with minimal edge dulling excepting now the shoulder is slightly shinier than the rest.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top