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How to remove the coating?
- Thread starter Diverliam
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2004
- Messages
- 18,850
You can use a scotchbrite buffing wheel or use sand paper. If using sand paper I would start on about 180 or 240 and go up to what
ever finish you want. About 600 or 800 will give a nice glossy looking satin, any higher will start to give you a more polished look.
We will clearly be needing pictures when your done as well.
:thumbup:
ever finish you want. About 600 or 800 will give a nice glossy looking satin, any higher will start to give you a more polished look.
We will clearly be needing pictures when your done as well.
:thumbup:
OK, tried the WD40 and a scotchbrite pad..... no joy. 240 grip sandpaper was next. That worked. All the surfaces other than those that interact with the locking bar and the stop-pin were cleared of the coating. When that was done I upgraded to 400 grit to finish. End result is a sterile 7 with a satin finish.
On a side note, after finishing the pivot pin now turns an extra 1/8 of a turn due to the change in thickness now the coating has been removed.
On a side note, after finishing the pivot pin now turns an extra 1/8 of a turn due to the change in thickness now the coating has been removed.
Last edited:
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2004
- Messages
- 18,850
That looks pretty good to me :thumbup:
If you go to a higher grit you will get a more glossy less scratched looking satin.
It's also worth just checking the washers are still flat on the blade and liners. (If you can see any sort of gap you can just take a fraction off the back spacer to eaven it out).
Just removing the coating shouldn't make any difference as it get's rubbed off by the washers at the pivot area any way with just using the knife.
:thumbup:If you go to a higher grit you will get a more glossy less scratched looking satin.
It's also worth just checking the washers are still flat on the blade and liners. (If you can see any sort of gap you can just take a fraction off the back spacer to eaven it out).
Just removing the coating shouldn't make any difference as it get's rubbed off by the washers at the pivot area any way with just using the knife.
Thanks for the advice guys, it turned out nice. I'm not worried about the extra movement of the pivot screw, it was less than 1/8 turn, which translates into an insignificant inwards movement of the liner. I think I'll leave it at 400 grit, I'm not after a polished look. I know it looks scratchy in the that photo, but it was taken at night, with a flash, in macro mode from about 20-30cm away, the blade looks a little different in proper light.