How to repair my Gransfors Bruks Small Forest Axe?

GhostAlpha0

GhostAlpha0

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I searched everywhere for one of these -- it was kind of hard to find. I took it out in the yard to make some kindling out of some store-bought firewood and I look at the blade and there's a huge chip in the edge! Honestly I have no idea what happened, I never hit anything but the wood and I really wasn't even swinging it hard because I was just making some kindling. Bad luck.

Anyway, I need some advice repairing the edge. I sharpen my knives with an edge pro apex so I haven't really done much freehand sharpening. I'm not really sure what to use or how to go about fixing this.

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You likely hit a knot. Knots in hemlock or even cedar can be glass hard and easily chip an axe or hatchet. You can either ignore it or re-profile.
 
The edge was probably to thin. Sharpen the edge so it is convex. There are countless videos online on how to sharpen. An axe to grind is a great video to watch anyway, and it covers sharpening.
 
It will sharpen out over time, if you dont want to wait then a file and a puck will get it out.

The next log/tree or finger will not mind the little dink in the blade when cutting.
 
Don't lose any sleep over it. Keep using and sharpen as needed. It will disappear in time.

Zieg
 
File it (keeping the same profile) if it really bothers you, but I would simply hone the edge with stones and keep using it. I doubt you'll even notice.
 
I've seen a video somewhere of a guy sharpening a hatchet with an Edge Pro. (Not sure if this one would fit on such an implement, though.) Of course, the edge was a conventional "V" afterwards - and not a nice convex. However, once could approximate a convex by sharpening bevel portions at increasing angles, and afterwards just "blending" in the resulted planes, with whatever stone you fancy.

To get rid of the chip, you'd most likely need a lot of work with anything else than a file. I'd use one but maybe I'd still favor a very coarse stone. Like: https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Utility-File-P119.aspx or https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/Norton-Tradesmans-Utility-Stone-P144.aspx .

Once monst of the chip is gone...try to emulate this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKJhhz-643k .

Just my 2 cents.
 
rumor has it Swedish and axes from over there are tempered to hard for American Hardwoods. Flame on if I am wrong as I really don't know that to be fact just something I read from time to time on the internet.

As to fixing it file it out or you risk chipping it out further, and give it a slightly tougher edge should be good to go.
 
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Thanks for the advice. I was panicking about it but it sounds like it's not as bas as I thought. I'm just going to leave it and continue to use it because it's still very sharp. I'll need to sharpen eventually so I'll wait for it to naturally wear away.
 
akrapacs said:
Thanks for the advice. I was panicking about it but it sounds like it's not as bas as I thought. I'm just going to leave it and continue to use it because it's still very sharp. I'll need to sharpen eventually so I'll wait for it to naturally wear away.
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its your axe so do with it what you like obviously but i think you should consider filing out chips or nicks before they get worse. just my opinion. I heat with wood and split a fair amount year round, its always been better for me to maintain and axe/maul/hatchet edge and easier.
 
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It's all been said, nicks come with the territory. You can keep it perfect forever, just don't use it.
:beaten:
"You knew the job was dangerous when you took it Fred.", Super Chicken.
 
lobo9er said:
rumor has it Swedish and axes from over there are tempered to hard for American Hardwoods. Flame on if I am wrong as I really don't know that to be fact just something I read from time to time on the internet.
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I think there are quite a few US vintage axes just as hard as these.
 
lobo9er said:
its your axe so do with what you like obviously but think you really should consider filing out chips or nicks.
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Correct, stress risers may further propagate the issues. At least "round off" some of it.
 
Moonw said:
I think there are quite a few US vintage axes just as hard as these.
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that maybe true and makes sense i have had only one bad chip and that was a vintage boys axe of no name I have. Took a chip about the size of a dime out of the very bottom of the edge. To its credit though I was hastily removing a deer tail and struck bone while processing a deer a few years ago. I was cold and grabbed it with out thinking twice. It has a fairly thin blade also compared to other hatchets of equal size. That said I do use a few vintage axes and have never had an issue, a MANN tool, chemical double headed axe and I think a DSL, I'll have to check what they are again. Nothing swedish in my rotation as of now so I only have interweb first hand knowledge of that stuff from over there.
 
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That's close enough to the toe that I'd at least reduce the depth of it or else you risk snapping the little peninsula of the remaining toe clean off, probably past the point of the current bottom of the notch.
 
lobo9er said:
that maybe true and makes sense i have had only one bad chip and that was a vintage boys axe of no name I have. Took a chip about the size of a dime out of the very bottom of the edge. To its credit though I was hastily removing a deer tail and struck bone while processing a deer a few years ago. I was cold and grabbed it with out thinking twice. It has a fairly thin blade also compared to other hatchets of equal size. That said I do use a few vintage axes and have never had an issue, a MANN tool, chemical double headed axe and I think a DSL, I'll have to check what they are again. Nothing swedish in my rotation as of now so I only have interweb first hand knowledge of that stuff from over there.
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Gotcha. I read the same thing about them running the axes too hard but I am a little bit skeptical when other vintage axes that can't be filed are discussed every now and then. Probably soo many factors contributing...e.g. geometry (good point), how annealed the metal behind the hardened edge, give of the haft...who can tell...I surely can't :)...just a theory.

As for bones...well, although green bones should be pretty...cleaver-able (is that even a word? :) ), there's a reason the guillotine put the executioner's axe back on the rack for good; I can see why a fine edge would chip when cold, even on a lower-impact tool (compared to a felling axe) as a hatchet .
 
Moonw said:
Gotcha. I read the same thing about them running the axes too hard but I am a little bit skeptical when other vintage axes that can't be filed are discussed every now and then. Probably soo many factors contributing...e.g. geometry (good point), how annealed the metal behind the hardened edge, give of the haft...who can tell...I surely can't :)...just a theory.

As for bones...well, although green bones should be pretty...cleaver-able (is that even a word? :) ), there's a reason the guillotine put the executioner's axe back on the rack for good; I can see why a fine edge would chip when cold, even on a lower-impact tool (compared to a felling axe) as a hatchet .
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agree now the deer in question was hanging all day wasn't frozen but tail bone could have been.
and same here just something I have read he also may have gotten one with bad heat treat or smacked a rock or Knot. anyones guess.
 
Woodcraft said:
The edge was probably to thin. Sharpen the edge so it is convex. There are countless videos online on how to sharpen. An axe to grind is a great video to watch anyway, and it covers sharpening.
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I'm on side with this opinion, and the suggestions on how to set up the blade. These are chopping implements, not knife blades. The more acute the angle the more susceptible it is to damage.
 
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