How to.... replace the leather???

zzyzzogeton

zzyzzogeton

Joined
Feb 17, 2013
Messages
6,167
Is there a step by step process for the "SAFE" way to remove the pommel and replace the leather and then put the pommel back nice and tight?:)

I have a couple of old beaters that need new leather but I don't want to end up with the leather washers being inadequately compressed, the pommel screwed up or whatever else could go wrong.:(
 
Removing the pommel will depend on how that specific one was attached to the tang in the first place. KA-BAR used at least 3 different methods during WW2 production to attach the pommels.
IMHO I avoid restoring knives that have historical significance because they become something else after the work has been done on them. At the end of the day it’s the owners choice. But I’ve seen too many good knives ruined by being fixed.

There seems to be more than one way to skin a cat. Here are some links to what others have done.

http://www.smithtac.com/KnifeRefinishing.html

http://www.northcoastknives.com/northcoast_knives_tutorials_hints_tips12.htm

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/451680-Stacked-leather-handle-repair

http://www.britishblades.com/forums...ing-the-Cold-Steel-Trailmaster-(56K-Warning!)
 
zzyzzogeton,

We have a kit that has leather washers, spacers, guard, pommell and pin. It is available for a modest sum and if you are handy, it can be done. A word to the wise; old historical knives are best left as is. But if you want to make it a project, you can pm me and I'll give you instructions to guide you through the process.

richard thurman,

This does not fall under the KA-BAR warranty.We do direct people to several craftsmen who can do work for a price.

Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
thank you, everyone.

I kinda figured no warranty available for "pawn shop rescues" 20+ yo knives on their 3rd or 4th owner.:)

I am not planning on doing anything to my 'older'/'historically significant/unusual' knives

my runty - 3 inch blade, unknown model number or name
a pre-model # "maybe it's a Little Finn" with just KABar on the blade
a Cleveland, Ohio 1226
an all-metal 2752

What I have are post 80s USMC/USNs that were not treated with respect. Their leather was apparently allowed to stay wet and rot. I was thinking about trying to replace the leathers "properly" as a project to learn "how to do something else". Until I get around to it, I can always practice my whittling and make some scales out of old pecan or oak and bolt it on "to get by for a while". In fact, right now I make do with multiple layers of duct tape around the leather (or what's left of it).

I really wanted to start getting my ducks in a row (if I had to buy or make something weird like a special press) since I am one of those people who "over-prepare" before doing something. I absolutely hate getting half-way through something and find out that I "should have done xxx". Those half-done projects seem to take on a hibernation of their own and get relegated tot he bottom of the list for a while and by then, any loose parts have decided to participate in Witness Protection Programs.

ZZZ

Paul, I will contact you later when I am ready to get started fixing the old girl.

As an aside, is there a 'fix it' kit for a 2227 KaLok? The bolster moves just fine, but the blade doesn't stay locked. It acts like a slip-joint now.

ZZZ
 
ZZZ,


There is no "fix kit" for the KA-Lok but it is a lock back configuration. Try cleaning the dirt /lint from the notch area. That may help. If that area is clean, the notch or hook has probably worn to the point that it no longer catches and unless you are very, very skilled, it is not worth the effort to dis-assemble and make the repairs.

Richard Thurman,

If the leather comes from the factory and has a gouge or defect in it, we will replace. However, since leather is a natural material and will get beatup by use, that is normal wear and tear and not covered as a defective material from the factory.
Hope this helps.

Best Regards,

Paul Tsujimoto
Sr Eng
Prod Dev and Qual
KA-BAR Knives
 
Thanks for the info, Paul.

I've already done the "try to clean down in that little bitty space" routine, including blowing with 145 PSI of good old air.

So I guess the problem is wear and no I am NOT very, very skilled. I am NOT very skilled. I'm not sure I even qualify for skilled.:D (Please note join date and number of posts. If they gave out Merit Badges and levels here like in Boy Scouts, knife knowledge-wise I would still be at the Tenderfoot level and have been awarded the "Can sharpen a knife without cutting himself too often" Merit Badge. Will change that over time, the key word being time. Nothing but study and PRACTICE will fix it.

As my grandfather once told me back in the '60s, long before Ron White used a variation of it in a comedy routine, "You can fix dumb, but you can't fix stupid." Maybe I'll put that in my signature to remind me to keep learning.

I am enthusiastic, eager and enjoy learning how to do things. So I will put my little KaLok on a shelf and maybe, someday, I may finally think I know enough to try to fix it.

ZZZ
 
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