How to satin finish a blade? NEED HELP!

A

aiu

Joined
Aug 4, 2004
Messages
9
Hi guys,

I'm really new at this kind of stuff and I need your help. On one of my blades (a SOG Dessert Dagger) made of AUS-6 steel with a satin finish some corrosion appeared. I used some sandpaper (240 grind) to remove it and now the finish on that part of the blade has some horizontal scratches. Please tell me how can I remove those scratches and obtain the same finish (satin) that the blade originally has on both sides.

Thank you very much for your help.

Alexandru,
Bucharest, ROMANIA
 
I learned a method here on the forum that has worked very well for removing a bead blast finish and/or markings on the blade. I use 1500 grit sandpaper wrapped around a small block erasure. I rub the sand paper coated erasure on the blade while holding it under running water. The water cleans the blade as I am rubbing. I hope this helps. I've removed several bead blasted finishes and (mostly Gerber folders) and an emblem off of a fixed blade.
 
To get a true satin finish you need to determine at what grit the original finish was done. I normally start at 400grit firstly with the W&D wrapped around stiff leather and then work in strokes along the length of the blade then I move to 600grit across the blade this will quickly show up any scratches you have to work on. I then use 800grit back along the length of the blade. I use WD40 to assist in the process. Be warned you will have to tape the edge of the blade to protect it and your fingers.
 
JDBLADE said:
To get a true satin finish you need to determine at what grit the original finish was done. I normally start at 400grit firstly with the W&D wrapped around stiff leather and then work in strokes along the length of the blade then I move to 600grit across the blade this will quickly show up any scratches you have to work on. I then use 800grit back along the length of the blade. I use WD40 to assist in the process. Be warned you will have to tape the edge of the blade to protect it and your fingers.
Click to expand...

Thank you JDBLADE!

Please tell me what W&D stands for? And also when I look to the original finish (on the other, unaffected side of the blade) I notice that the original one appears to be done not along the length of the blade but instead perpendicular on the length of the blade. What do you think? I say this because I’ve observed some perpendicular fine lines on the length of the blade in the original finish!

Thanks again.
 
W&D is wet and dry abrasive paper. I would suggest that the original finish is done by hand and the perpendicular markes may actually be the original grind marks. The reason for going one way then another is that it will show up the scratches that you have to work on plus you will find that rubbing horizontally along the blade is easier so you make sure that is where you finish your work. Hope this helps - you may care to do a search in the knifemakers forum. I am sure this subject has been up before.
 
Best bet is to go back to the grit you started with (240) and sand in the same direction as the scratches you want to keep. ;)

Then when it's all even, go to 400, then 600.

Keep 'er oiled to prevent further tarnish.

Dan
 
i have refinished blades that have deep perpendicular grinds using 220, 600, then 1200 grit w/d. no oil or water necessary, no wrapping of the sandpaper around anything. cutting a small piece & just using my hand (& feel with the fingers applying the pressure) worked beautifully for me. i just sharpen the edge after i finish the grinds. i really like the look of a longitudinal satin finish. leaving it at a 600 grit looks good, but taking it to 1200 is just a few hairs under a mirror type finish, & i find that to have the most seductive look. people's mouths drop when you show them the finish, it really lends a gem-like vibe to the knife.
 
This is an enlightening topic...would you say that "Flitz" is equal to about 1200 grit W&D?
 
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