How to Seal Wood handles ?

Joined
Nov 15, 2006
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Anybody have links on Sealing wood handles?

I have a wood-handled HI 15" BAS.. i *think* it is sisau wood..
Kind of dry here, would like to find some kind of "permanent" solution rather than having to oil regularly.
I *thought* I saw some talk on this forum about permanently sealing with (something) ? ..i'm thinking outdoor urethane varnish perhaps?

Thanks in advance :)
i shall bookmark this time!


Notes:
-gonna post pics but nephew busted the battery door on my digi-cam! ::grr::
-Search feature here on BF really acting up today.. giving me infamous 'do=process' error even when i search for "wood"! LOL
 
crazy glue works real well it also stabilizes the outer layers of the wood. i learned it from here.
 
If Crazy Glue is used, do you just slobber it on and then sand it when dry? Can it be brought to a nice polished look?

Bill
 
mineral oil works great on wood, stag, bone, micarta, etc... I have always had good luck with it. It can be found at any pharmacy, and is non-toxic so it can even be used on kitchen cutlery.
 
Take your pick, Watco Oil finish, Tung Oil, Boiled linseed oil, Tru-Oil gunstock finish. Sand with some 220 grit with the grain. Put several thin coats on.

Steve
 
If Crazy Glue is used, do you just slobber it on and then sand it when dry? Can it be brought to a nice polished look?

Bill

I just rub it in like Tru oil and let it dry about a half hour to an hour (latex gloves are a must) then polish with steel wool, repeating the cycle until i have the desired effect. once you get all little ridges out you'll get like an eggshell finish on it. Yvsa had a dicussion on it awhile back you can probably find it here somewhere i'll take a look for it.
 
I just rub it in like Tru oil and let it dry about a half hour to an hour (latex gloves are a must) then polish with steel wool, repeating the cycle until i have the desired effect. once you get all little ridges out you'll get like an eggshell finish on it. Yvsa had a dicussion on it awhile back you can probably find it here somewhere i'll take a look for it.

Thank you sir.
 
I've used a process similar to Steve.

1. Wash w/ Murphy's Oil soap. Use a toothbrush/toothpick to clean out all of the crevices.

2. Thin layer of tung oil
3. Smooth with a little bit of Armorall
4. Dry
5. Sand lightly

6. Repeat 2-5 several to many times, depending on how pretty the wood is and how much you want the grain to come out.

I think I got that right. :cool:
 
i am a huge advocate of boiled linseed oil.

it's the treatment of choice for wood wasters (sword play).

i find that however saatisal and especially chandan doesn't soak it up as well. But twice a year, i treat my wood handle khuks with linseed (be sure to follow instructions), and my horn ones with good ol' hooflex.
 
Take your pick, Watco Oil finish, Tung Oil, Boiled linseed oil, Tru-Oil gunstock finish. Sand with some 220 grit with the grain. Put several thin coats on.

What Steve said, and this works great on rifle stocks as well. The goal here is to work up a good wood/abrasive/oil slurry on the surface of the wood; the heat generated by friction and the sanding itself will help to force this into the surface of the wood, and the slurry will fill the grain. One could alternately use varnish, Crazy Glue or something similar to fill the grain by sanding off each coat but it's a hell of a lot quicker to go the oil route. Once the surface is completely smooth, then hit it with a gloss coat to get that "wood under glass" effect without annoying surface imperfections.

Another gunstock refinishing trick that I've had success with here is to use whiting to draw out the old finish (spray-on oven cleaner works in a pinch, but be careful with it); afterwards, the wood will be bone dry and will soak up whatever you apply to it like a sponge. Be warned, though -- this is rather rough on the wood and if it's already marginal, you may very well crack it by doing this.
 
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