How to sharpen a Sebenza?

B

BoySetsTheFire

Joined
May 11, 2004
Messages
41
My Sebenza came with a great edge - looks like it may have been convexed. But I ruined it trying to sharpen with a Lansky system. The bevel angle became very severe at the tip. Chris Reeves recommends this system, however it makes for a very fragile or delicate tip. I called Lansky and they said their system could not be used on curved blades, because of this problem. What to do? At this point, I would be willing to buy a grinder with various wheels, if necessary. But can they be fixtured for maintaining an angle, and especially around the curve of the blade. So, how can I sharpen my Sebenza? Also, any good books out there on sharpening pocket knives. I am not a good free-hander, so a system or wheel would be best.
 
Hi,
I´m sorry to hear about your Lansky expirence. I used to use the same system, but made a mess of too many blades with it.... :(
Not being a good free hander is only a matter of time. Get a Spyderco dobbel stuff stone (Best for the $ IMHO) and start sharpening a cheap blade or 5... After a couple of try´s you´ll get it, I´m sure :) Being able to freehand is great, you can sharpen your blades anywhere, anytime -and you won´t make a mess that easy!! :D
If that speach didn´t turn you on...get a Spyderco Sharpmaker!! :D
ALIass
 
Well, a good friend is a master cabinet maker and has given me his less preferred Japanese water stones - several grits. I just have not had the nerve to try them, figuring that I will not keep a straight line or scratch the side of the blade. But having ruined one of my Sebenzas, I guess I could do worse than the Lansky. Any tips on keeping the angle or making a guide? And the same problem will arrive with freehanding - how will I maintain a uniform angle as I go around the curve into the tip? If I lock my wrist on the straight, I will somehow have to change wrist position as I come around the curve. But you're right - freehand is the way to go. Any tips on learning will be appreciated.
 
i use the spyderco sharpmaker and have no problem getting killer edge. for 50 bones i think this is the way to go
 
Well, basicly I move the knife over the stone while moving the stone back and forth. This meens that the angel of the stone stays the same and that the knife is kept in the same position/angle also. It´s NOT an easy way, but the best way for me. Both knife and stone in hand.
Most place the stone on the table and then "cut" thin slices of it whit the knife... :)
However, the Sharpmaker IS the best "device" around IMHO.
ALIass
 
Clamping closer to the tip will help. I have been doing that as well. However, I have discovered the "real problem". A William Henry knife will sharpen up fine on the Lansky and a Sebenza will not. This is because the Sebenza tip runs up high where the blade is thick. So the tip bevel on the Sebenza looks very severe, but is the same angle as the rest of the knife. Because the stock is thicker up at the tip, the bevel rides a greater distance from the edge. The only way to really sharpen a Sebenza is the way Chris Reeve Knives does it. Grind the bevel on a belt sander. If you use the unsupported area of the belt, natural convexing will occur - like on a mousepad. Then use a felt wheel charged with polish to finish. As you grind the blade on the belt, you need to roll the edge so that the tip portion is less keen. This will maintain a uniform bevel line and make for a stronger tip. That, plus the convex edge, gives you the CVhris Reeve edge job. They say it takes a bit of practice and learning.
 
Chris Reeve recommends a Spyderco Sharpmaker. That's what I use on my Sebenza and it works great.

It works great on my other knives too. Very simple system - comes with an instructional video.
 
I used my Spyderco Sharpmaker 204 to reprofile my large Sebenza with S30V blade with no problems. I would recommend when using the corners of the rods not to go all the way to the tip; this may round off the tip. I only sharpen to the tip when using the flat of the rods, and pull the tip about halfway across the width of the flat. This ensures you sharpen the entire edge but don't round the tip off.
Just my .02.

Jim
 
I've used Spyderco, Lansky, and stones. My experiences with sharpening has taught me two things, patience and practice. All systems have strenghts and weaknesses, you need to try different methods find the system you feel comfortable with and practice. With that said I prefer the Lansky. I've used it on my Sebenza for almost 10 years. Slow controlled strokes, always careful of the tip.
 
See this:

"...I also wanted to point out that when using Spyderco ceramic sticks you want to be using the flat side, not the edge. Starting with the knife at the top with the inter edge against the stick move down and back with a nice steady motion."

Ken Hunter

General Manager


From this thread:
Click me
 
I have never had a problem with using a Lansky on my Sebenza. Where are you placing the clamp? It should be about centered on the blade. Too close or too far from either end will change you final angle.

The Lansky is great for keeping a semi-convex edge, I use the 17 degree setting, follow it up with the 20 degree setting and then lightly hit the edge at the 25 degree setting with the medium, fine and sapphire stones. Strop with a loaded leather strop and the edge will come very close to resembling the factory edge, only sharper :-D I will use the Sharpmaker for touch ups in between sharpenings.

Be very careful if you decide to use a belt to sharpen. Most inexpensive grinders run at high belt speeds, and it only takes a little error to make a big boo-boo, especially at the tip.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top