how to sharpen BM 970 chisel grind?

Joined
Feb 7, 1999
Messages
94
Hello all,
I tried sharpening my pal's chisel grind (bm 970)with my spyderco 203 while manually maintaining a 30 degree angle; however, my results were lousy - I think I made it worst. What am I doing something wrong, or can anyone advise if a Lansky would be a better choice for Chisel grind?
Thnxs.
 
Did the same thing. Made mine worse too. Finally decided that "Life-Sharp" was there for a reason and sent it back to Benchmade to be sharpened.

Razor sharp again.
 
Bob, I have no experience with Lansky, but a traditional honing stone will fit better for chisel ground tantos. Put the blade on the honing stone, lightly rub the blade along it a few times, then slightly change the angle and do the same, to find out the smoothest angle, where the second bevel is touching just right and the ridge is not rubbing the stone. When you find out the right angle, just make enough strokes.
Chisel gound blade has a wider second bevel, you find it easy to "feel" the right angle.

Hope it helps.

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Bob:

I have used Benchmade chisl grind knives for a long time, and also used the sharpmaker 203 for sharpening. I got good-excellent results after practice. To use the sharpmaker on chisel grinds you have to have a steady hand.

If you need help, I am more than willing to sharpen the knife for you. Send me an email if you want, people around here will vouch that I'm not going to steal your knife
smile.gif


Dark Nemesis

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Dark Nemesis,

The thought of stealing never entered into my mind, and thank you generous offer; however, it's best learn the proper technique on my own. I gonna give it the 203 another try tonight. Approximately what angle do you do use to sharpen your Chisel grind blades?


 
This was clipped from the Bladeforums.com Knowledge base..

- The Chisel-ground Edge

Phil Hartsfield has for years been making tantos with a chisel grind, but Ernest Emerson's CQC-6 design and Benchmade's Emerson-designed 970 have really popularized the grind. Typically, the blade is an Americanized tanto format that's ground on one side only (the other side comes straight down). An edge bevel is ground from the middle of the blade and goes all the way through the edge. It is extremely sharp.

The chisel ground edge owes it sharpness to the fact that the edge bevel is typically ground at around 30 degrees. Since the opposite side of the blade is essentially at 0 degrees (it comes straight down with no bevel), that's a total of 30 degrees + 0 degrees = 30 degrees edge angle. With a more traditional edge, you'll typically have each bevel being ground at around 20 degrees, so that's 20 degrees + 20 degrees = 40 degrees total edge angle.

To sharpen the chisel-ground edge, you'll place the entire edge bevel on the stone and grind it until a burr is formed. Many people then strop the edge on a piece of cardboard on the other side, to remove the burr. Optionally, you can lay the flat side *flat* on a fine stone and do a little grinding from that side as well (something guaranteed to mar the finish). If you can't bear to mar the finish that way, lay the flat side as flat as you can -- maybe 5-degrees off the stone at most. What is critically important is to not grind a big second angle into the back (flat side) of the blade. The chisel grind's sharpness arises from the acute angle formed between the front bevel and the flat back. You can then try to use decreasing pressure to grind off the burr, and finishing with a steel provides really nice results.

Hartsfield and many other believe that for a right-handed user, the edge bevel should be on the right side of the knife (that is, the side that faces you when the knife tip is pointing to the right). Following Emerson's lead, most makers are grinding the left side of the knife instead, apparently because that's where the maker's stamp is traditionally positioned, and advertisements look better if the stamp and edge are on the same side.

To see why the grind should be on the right side for a righty, think about trying to make a precise cut in, say, a carrot, or a piece of material, or whatever. If you're like most righties, you want to hold the work in your left hand and cut with your right hand. If the knife is ground on the right side, then the flat part of the blade is the part you can see, and you can make sure the flat part of the blade is exactly along the line you want to cut. If the grind is on the left side, the material is diving underneath the bevel, and it's difficult to eyeball whether or not you're cutting in the right place. This adds to the chisel-ground tanto format's existing problems: 1) no belly, and as such not the best general utility format, and 2) unsymmetrical grind, making precise cutting difficult.

The most popular chisel-ground folder, the Benchmade 97x series, uses a 30-degree secondary grind to form the edge [Note: Benchmade uses a secondary bevel; most custom makers bring the primary bevel all the way down to the edge]. The Lansky system includes a 30-degree position, but for some reason most users have found that the angle is not quite right (it's unclear at this time whether it's Lansky or Benchmade whose angle is not precisely 30 degress). Some Lansky users on rec.knives has fashioned an extension to the Lansky system to get the proper grind angle for the 97x, by extending the post using plastic from a milk carton. The Edge Pro, a similar but much more expensive system, will get the 97x's angle properly.



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I could never get my lansky to work with my emerson cqc7. The angle is wrong.Makes the knife duller.Chisel edges do not cut well, become dull real quickly, and are a pain to sharpen. I gave up on it and sold the damn thing. Too bad really I really liked its looks.
 
Toe cutter,
I was going to purchase a Lansky system just for the cqc7. After listening to what you have to say, I'm glad I held off. I got good results last night with my sharpmaker 203. I held the cqc7 blade slightly tilted towards the right in attempt to duplicate the 30 degrees. A burr didn't form on the edge until 300 + swipes against the medium grit stone while applying firm pressure. Finally I removed the burr with 5 swipes against a 20-degree medium stone. This method seemed to produces a good sharp edge, albeit now as good clean as factor condition.
Thanks for everyone's help and suggestion.
 
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