How to sharpen this blade

J JCFC Welcome! Unfortunately I can't view the video on the computer I'm using. Which side does the cutting? It looks to me (from the pictures) like you could lay it flat on a stone and do the figure 8 motion until you bring it back down to a keen edge.

Edit: If its the other side or the end that needs sharpening, then a bench grinder aganist the platten would work well. Otherwise, I'd put it in a vise and work it with a diamond file.
 
Last edited:
I agree. The best method is peobably to sharpen on the flat side, then knock the burr off from the rim of the other side.

That would be my guess anyway.
 
I can't really see the blade to tell you how to sharpen it.

But a word of caution. From what I know about oboe reed knives, they work more like a scraper than a knife. So, it that applies in this case too, than a lot of the recommendations you'll get here (like deburring) won't really apply. Fine abrasives, maintain the same bevel, and a way to burnish the edge are the way most are sharpened. Not sure if it applies to the knife in your machine... but the blade doesn't look like it would need more than a fine abrasive.

Does the maker of the machine offer any guidance? That's where I would start.

Be interested in knowing the outcome. Thanks!
 
Since it seems to be part of a specialist tool, my real suggestion would be factory sharpening or a new blade.

Otherwise, if I were going to attempt it myself, as others have suggested I would sharpen it by working on the flat side on a well-flattened water stone of 1000 grit to start, and work up to about 5000 grit, watching very carefully for any burr formation. I would then strop away the burr carefully using a hard strop with some very fine compound on it, being careful to follow the edge on the other side.

Oh I see, they want 100€ for a new blade and about 40€ to sharpen them. Makes sense to want to do it yourself for those prices.

It looks like they must use some sort of broad conical grinding tool attached to a vertical mandrel of some kind, with the point of the cone pointing downwards and and then move the blade around it using a jig of some sort to keep it at a constant curve around that central point.

https://www.reedsnstuff.com/en/Oboe...rofiling-Machine/Accessories/Spare-Blade.html
 
Last edited:
First of all thank you everyone for the replies.

My first guess would be to lay if flat on the stone, like most of you suggested, but since its to be used on such a delicate and precise work (scrapping oboe reeds, ex: the tip of the reed is to be finished at about 0,8 - 0,10 mm), and the price of the blade ( about 100$), I wont risk it unless I'm very sure of what to do. The burr is my problem because if that side of the blade isn't perfect the reed will be ruined.

Yes, I can send it to the manufacturer, but its in Germany, and without shipping costs its about 40$ to sharp the blade, wouldn't be such a bad deal if the blade didn't started to wear off after 40 or so reeds. And they say they use a machine to do it.
 
JCFC said:
First of all thank you everyone for the replies.

My first guess would be to lay if flat on the stone, like most of you suggested, but since its to be used on such a delicate and precise work (scrapping oboe reeds, ex: the tip of the reed is to be finished at about 0,8 - 0,10 mm), and the price of the blade ( about 100$), I wont risk it unless I'm very sure of what to do. The burr is my problem because if that side of the blade isn't perfect the reed will be ruined.

Yes, I can send it to the manufacturer, but its in Germany, and without shipping costs its about 40$ to sharp the blade, wouldn't be such a bad deal if the blade didn't started to wear off after 40 or so reeds. And they say they use a machine to do it.
Click to expand...

Have you seen that Victorinox makes a swiss army knife made for Oboe reeds. I have seen other knives in the same style as it called oboe knives. From what I had seen they look like just chisel ground blades with zero grinds. Is there some way to learn to use this type of knife for the job? At 40$ a sharpening is it not cheaper to just buy cut reeds?

show_image.php
 
Was trying to search the web for sharpening these 'oboe reed gouger blades', as they're apparently called. Of the few sharpening services that provide any clues about sharpening them, all seem to show them being sharpened from the bevelled side, using Tormek-like wet wheels and alignment jigging/fixturing, set up to rotate the bevelled, radiused face against the wheel, much like a woodturning gouge might be sharpened. Pics all appear to show the back surface is always dead-flat, and seemingly untouched in the sharpening process. I'd be concerned, if there's a need for the back side to remain dead-flat as they're used in the reed profiling machines, attempting resharpening from the back side might be risky in altering how the machine functions with them.

I don't otherwise know, or assume to know, how these are best done. Just putting it out there.


David
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Was trying to search the web for sharpening these 'oboe reed gouger blades', as they're apparently called. Of the few sharpening services that provide any clues about sharpening them, all seem to show them being sharpened from the bevelled side, using Tormek-like wet wheels and alignment jigging/fixturing, set up to rotate the bevelled, radiused face against the wheel, much like a woodturning gouge might be sharpened. Pics all appear to show the back surface is always dead-flat, and seemingly untouched in the sharpening process. I'd be concerned, if there's a need for the back side to remain dead-flat as they're used in the reed profiling machines, attempting resharpening from the back side might be risky in altering how the machine functions with them.

I don't otherwise know, or assume to know, how these are best done. Just putting it out there.


David
Click to expand...

I think it all depends if it cuts with the beveled side or if the bevel is just for relief. I would assume the machine allows for blade adjustment of some kind.
Interesting little blades though.
 
Obsessed with Edges said:
Found a .pdf article, linked below, with instructions for the use & setup of oboe reed gouging machines. In pages 27-30 of the article, there's a section on resharpening the blades by hand. It does appear they emphasize sharpening the bevelled, curved face first, and then removing the burr from the backside.

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=3&ved=0ahUKEwiC_87xm5vXAhWkq1QKHW9XDbIQFgguMAI&url=http://diginole.lib.fsu.edu/islandora/object/fsu:181066/datastream/PDF/view&usg=AOvVaw2v7jwZBcocKgCwVvDPHh3t


David
Click to expand...

Nice Google-Fu David!!
The Appendix at the end has some very good pictures of whats involved in sharpening these blades. It doesn't look very difficult at all.
It's a shame that they are "short lived" blades and they only recommend sharpening them once. They are quite pricey!!
 
danbot said:
Nice Google-Fu David!!
The Appendix at the end has some very good pictures of whats involved in sharpening these blades. It doesn't look very difficult at all.
It's a shame that they are "short lived" blades and they only recommend sharpening them once. They are quite pricey!!
Click to expand...

This is all very interesting stuff. A new tangent to sharpening that I didn't know existed, and piquing my curiosity yet again. I don't know anything about music or musical instruments; but, it's fascinating to see how much goes into making them work, like the intricate, specialized machines for making the reeds alone. I had no idea...


David
 
@ Lapedog - Yes of course, I have a couple of reed knifes, in fact all professional oboist should know how to scrape reeds without the machine, its just a matter of time saving.

@David - Wow, I feel so stupid now, of course the blade of the gouging machine is similar to the profiler blade, its so obvious it never came to mind, and that method on the appendix seems to be the correct one, ill investigate a bit more. Thank you !!!

In general oboists and bassoon players are the only one to make their own reeds. In relation to the oboe the reed is such a personal thing, influenced by so many factors that its mandatory you know how to atleast tie it and scrape it, and it takes years to master that art. We can buy them of course, but they are quite pricey (between 15-20$ dollars each) and they last about a week if you have rehearsals every day, also theres a big chance they are not good enough, you also need to be able to tinker it a bit to your liking, etc, etc. I could go on all day :).

Here s a little video, old, but mentions some curious stuff about the oboe in case you are interested

Thank you all again, very helpful and friendly forum.
 
JCFC said:
@ Lapedog - Yes of course, I have a couple of reed knifes, in fact all professional oboist should know how to scrape reeds without the machine, its just a matter of time saving.

@David - Wow, I feel so stupid now, of course the blade of the gouging machine is similar to the profiler blade, its so obvious it never came to mind, and that method on the appendix seems to be the correct one, ill investigate a bit more. Thank you !!!

In general oboists and bassoon players are the only one to make their own reeds. In relation to the oboe the reed is such a personal thing, influenced by so many factors that its mandatory you know how to atleast tie it and scrape it, and it takes years to master that art. We can buy them of course, but they are quite pricey (between 15-20$ dollars each) and they last about a week if you have rehearsals every day, also theres a big chance they are not good enough, you also need to be able to tinker it a bit to your liking, etc, etc. I could go on all day :).

Here s a little video, old, but mentions some curious stuff about the oboe in case you are interested

Thank you all again, very helpful and friendly forum.
Click to expand...

Thank you for all the info. Its great having someone who is knowledgable in another area come here. I know little about reed instruments besides that they were popular with local jazz bands when I used to live in New Orleans
 
I'd still sharpen it on the flat backside and remove the burr with a firm strop or polishing stone. I cannot imagine freehand maintaining the factory curvature of that blade - much easier to work the side with the easier reference.
 
I would be examining the manner in which the blade attaches to the machine to see if it's able to clamp to anything thinner than the blade is currently. If able to do so, I would hone chiefly from the backside and deburr with great care from the beveled face. In fact, I would treat it very similarly to honing a straight razor and would do my very best to avoid forming a burr at all, if possible, and would use extremely fine stones in as hard of a bond and flat of a surface as I could manage to obtain. This is an example where honing using a sintered ceramic stone, lapped flat, would be a potentially useful sort to have.
 
the blade kind of reminds me of a giant dog nail clipper.

I wonder if after sharpening if the blade could be more easily maintained with some kind of stropping. That way maybe it will last longer before needing resharpening.

Lots of good advice this thread.
 
Lapedog said:
the blade kind of reminds me of a giant dog nail clipper.

I wonder if after sharpening if the blade could be more easily maintained with some kind of stropping. That way maybe it will last longer before needing resharpening.

Lots of good advice this thread.
Click to expand...
Funny, I was thinking the same. I'd try a 10-micron diamond paste on a soft dremel polishing felt. Make sure the felt wheel apexes just behind the edge so as not to round it off.

I don't play the oboe, or any other reeded instrument for that matter, so I can' say for certain, but I wouldn't expect any real edge damage that needed to be sharpened out. Stropping could probably extend the life quite a bit.
 
I get the impression in reading about these, that the cane reeds used for oboes actually do induce a lot of quick wear in the blades. The earlier-referenced .pdf document has a picture of the crescent-shaped wear pattern on the edge of the blade, which apparently happens on both sides of the apex and eventually rounds it over. That sort of damage probably won't be fixed by stropping alone. If the cane is anything like bamboo, for example, it might contain a lot of abrasive silica. If the edge were simply getting rolled in use, I could see stropping working to fix that, or stave off any major resharpening necessity. But it sounds like there's more wear to the edge than that, with these.


David
 
Update:

I tried to sharpen the spare blunt blade I had with the method described in the book mentioned here, I only made it worse :), its hard to maintain the correct angle and movement. I already shipped it to the manufacturer. Anyway, thank you very much to everyone that tried to help.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top