How to Strip for Food

JWheel

JWheel

Joined
Jun 18, 2015
Messages
518
What? That title can't possibly be misleading.

If I'm stripping a BK15 that will primarily be used for food prep (and seeing a lot of water), should I strip the area under the handles as well or leave the coating for extra corrosion protection?

And if the answer is to leave the coating, do I need to tape that area off when stripping, or do I just leave the handles on?
 
I would leave the coating under the handles (mind you i never did when i stripped mine but in hindesight wondered why i didnt) - will cause no harm and add protection. If you do this - i would remove the handles and tape it up to prevent the stripper bleeding. I used a gel stripper, no need to worry about bleeding.

If you want to strip the whole blade remove the handles and do the whole thing.
 
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If you use the super strong chemical stripper taping probably won't help. Well, for sure it didn't work for me. The next one I strip I am going to use a dremel with a wire wheel and strip the area close to the handle. Then soak a towel in the stripper and wrap the blade to keep the chemical away from the handle.
 
I taped my bk2 off to try keeping it under the handles, but using jasco paint and epoxy stripper the tape didn't do any good. It ate right thru it
 
Bobby3326 said:
I taped my bk2 off to try keeping it under the handles, but using jasco paint and epoxy stripper the tape didn't do any good. It ate right thru it
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Ouch! dont know about you lads in the U.S, i can get a gel paint stripper here where i can paint it on where needed. Just try it if it bleeds a bit, doesnt matter.
 
Gassy said:
Ouch! dont know about you lads in the U.S, i can get a gel paint stripper here where i can paint it on where needed. Just try it if it bleeds a bit, doesnt matter.
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Well the stuff I used was thick and I was able to "paint"it on, but I was attempting to strip the blade and exposed area around the handles. So I taped it up then put the handles on and trimmed the excess tape around the handles. I then removed the handles coated it and let it sit for 30 minutes. When I came back it had ate thru the tape on the side it was resting on from run off, so i said screw it and just removed it all.

This was also my first attempt stripping a knife so there was the trial and error effect too. Next time I'll be more cautious on the areas i don't want stripped.
 
I was wondering about the pictures where I see guys leaving the paint on just under the scales, and moister migrating under the painted part and rusting under the paint.
Some powder coat paints Ive seen that happens. Its like brittle plastic coating. I dont know what that paint is that Becker uses

I was thinking a guy could use rustolem under the scales. I know Rustoleum would seal good from moister and rust and isnt a brittle material when dry
 
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For food prep, you just need a smooth blade. Whether you strip the whole knife is a personal preference.

The handles are pretty tough but it's another reason to use a 'milder' stripper like Citrustrip.
 
I stripped mine completely as I thought it was easier for doing a boiling vinegar patina. I just masked off the blade and clearcoated the tang before adding the scales back on.
 
Id like to know about the "boiling vinegar patina".

Ive used vinegar to clean axe head rust and stuff . Ive seen videos of boiling vinegar and then putting a knife in it, then washing and carding off the black off the knife blade and then doing it again

What is the purpose of the vinegar being real hot?

How long to you leave the blade in? Wash and card it how many times?

Seems kind of like rust blueing on a rifle except backwards.

Does it give the blade kind of a rust blue patina that seals it from rusting more?

Does anyone have some good before and after pictures?
 
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Don't have any before pics but here are a couple of crappy after ones.
 
I used the hot vinegar approach on my 15 after masking the handle and applying a stripper. Came out a dark grey that I really liked. I'll need to get pictures up eventually.
 
JDMiller said:
I was wondering about the pictures where I see guys leaving the paint on just under the scales, and moister migrating under the painted part and rusting under the paint.
Some powder coat paints Ive seen that happens. Its like brittle plastic coating. I dont know what that paint is that Becker uses

I was thinking a guy could use rustolem under the scales. I know Rustoleum would seal good from moister and rust and isnt a brittle material when dry
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Moisture won't migrate under the "painted part".

It's not really 'paint' but a thick epoxy coating and will hold up better than Rustoleum.
 
Let us know what you end up doing and let's see pics - I'm planning something similar actually
 
I used aircraft paint remover on mine with blue tape on the handle to preserve the coating there. It came out fine, I use it for food a lot.
 

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When I stripped my nine I just used sandpaper. I didn't want to lose the coating under the scales because I knew I wouldn't take them off very often to check for corrosion. Takes some time but it is also a little therapeutic. Cleans up some of the grind lines also but I didn't go to the full polish level. My hats off to those that do though. For some reason I just like a stripped blade with a natural patina from use. It kinda tells a story of what you have done with the knife.
 
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