I strop serrations on the edge of denim-over-wood paddle/stick strops I made (I have two), with either a white rouge (aluminum oxide) compound, or with another aluminum oxide compound that's perhaps a little more aggressive than the white rouge. Both are excellent at removing burrs when used this way, with a light touch. They also polish very quickly. I just lightly draw the edge (in trailing fashion, as with all stropping) from heel-to-tip along the edge of the strop, keeping the touch very, very light and the angle such that a light zipper-like feel can be felt via the fingers. The light touch is all-important, so the teeth/points of the serrations don't snag or dig in, and so there's no risk of rounding over the edge.
Stropping burrs burrs from a serrated edge is much easier if the burrs are formed to lean to the back (flat) side of the edge, as most serrated edges will be bevelled on only one side. In other words, do most, if not all, the honing on the bevelled side, using a hone made for the serrations, or a rod that fits them, after which the burrs should roll to the back (flat side). The flat side of the edge will be somewhat easier to strop; and if done with an appropriately aggressive compound as above, will remove burrs pretty quickly & easily. If the compound is sufficiently aggressive, there's little need to 'flip' burrs from side to side; but instead, you're aiming to gently abrade them away from one side mainly, if not only from one side. As for the honing itself, the better (lighter) your touch is with the honing, the smaller/thinner/lighter the burrs will be, which are then that much easier to deal with. Heavy, thick, stiff burrs created with too-heavy pressure are a real pain to remove from serrated edges.
There are also other ways to do it. Some will hone from the back (flat) side, and then use a powered buffing wheel to remove the burrs from, and polish on, the bevelled side. If done with a skilled touch appropriate to the tools used, that could work as well.
David
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