How To Strop?

Joined
Jul 17, 1999
Messages
795
OK folks, I just received a good razor strop and a stick of compound from KnifeCenter.Now, can someone PLEASE tell me the proper way to strop a knife edge, and properly use the compound? My "Illinois" strop has a leather side and a "fine weave linen finish" side made of what looks to be canvas. I will be most appreciative of any instructional tips you can pass on to me, no matter how basic or fundamental.I have no experience with a strop. My main reason for getting the strop is to maintain my convex ground Big Country Kampr,which recommends stropping.I will, of course, try stropping others I want a keen edge on.Thanks!

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AKTI Member #A000934
"Always just one knife short of perfection!"
 
I have been using this method for many years now to give that final touch to the edge of my blades.

Being I do leather work (carving) I picked this up from sharpening my leather carving tools. I have a piece of old leather about 8 long by 4" wide I have been using for a LONG time now. I rub jewelers rouge into the leather. That's what gives the sharpening action. The older the leather gets and the more rouge that gets inbedded into the leather, the easier it becomes to use as well as getting that blade to it's full sharpness capabilities.
I only use this on my blades after I have completely sharpened them with my Spyderco Sharpmaker first.

I just hold it at what I think is the proper angle that the edge has and I do one side at a time, not back and forth flipping sides.
I find this method works out extremely well for me and there are never burrs or flipped edges on my blades afterwards.

Mark
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" Knife Collectors Are Sharp People "
 
BTTT just this one time please!

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AKTI Member #A000934
"Always just one knife short of perfection!"
 
I have two factory made strops that were found at a local flea market. Neither one of them had the right texture to do what I wanted. Maybe for a very thin carbon steel razor, they would work OK. For the way I use a strop, they are too smooth to hold any compound.
My blades are sharpened on my belt grinder, running a worn 30 micron belt very slowly. I use a COOLMIST system to spray the belt before the point of contact. Once I have sharpened both sides of the blade and have a small burr roled over along the complete edge on one side, I begin to strop.
Both of the strops in my shop now are just 2"X 18" strips of 9oz leather that I lay on the work bench. All stropping is done on the rough side.
One strop is loaded with brown Sisal wheel polish that I use for "rough" stopping, mainly removing the wire burr. Then I switch to my 'finish" strop that uses green polish for final scarry sharpness
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I've mentioned in other posts that I swear by, and sometimes AT my microscope. I can examine the entire edge and easily see areas that are not perfectly sharp. You would be surprised at what many big$$ factory knife edges actually look like when they FEEL sharp
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!!
For me the strop is mainly a way of holding the polishing compound while providing the proper texture to stroke the knife against. I am still working on the best method for Talonite!!!
Neil

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Blackwood Knives
More knives in stock soon!
http://www.geocities.com/Eureka/Meeting/5520/index.html
 
The most important thing to understand about stropping is what is happening at the edge. ALL edges are really miniature saw blades. How large the 'teeth' are depends on the final grit size used in honing to establish the final bevel. A 4000 or 8000 grit final honing step will leaves very small teeth along the edge. A 600 or 1200 grit final honing will produce much larger teeth.

In either case, stropping will Align the teeth along the cutting plane. If there is a burr or wire edge left after honing, which is much more likely to be observed with rougher grit stone, stropping will remove this.

Wire edges form as the honing process pushes metal off the end of the sharpening plane. If you use only one stroke per side on a double edged blade, this wire edge buildup will be very small or unoticeable. However, if you like to use multiple stokes and each side before turning the knife over, the buildup of the wire edge will be very noticeable by dragging your index finger along the flat of the blade from the spine side towards the edge.

The metal buildup is caused because metal is malleable and ductile. Sharpening grinds metal away. But it also pushes it around. Especially on the small scales encountered at the junction of the two sharpening planes (the edge). Stropping will align the edge and further reduce the size of the teeth. Using a low powered microscope or magnifier will make this Very clear.

As with stones, you can use different grits of stropping polish to have different effects on the edge. I like green chromium oxide rubbed into the smooth side of a 4" by 6" piece of tanned leather I got at a boot repair shop. Sometimes I use aluminum oxide powders on other pieces of leather treated with vaseline to hold the powder. My green polish and many others come in stick form. Just rub the stick on the stop until you have color everywhere. I use these pieces of leather on my bench, laid over a stone, and on or in rounded forms I made for stropping large wood carving gouges. I have other strops which are glued to boards or forms. For wood carving, using 4000 to 8000 grit stones, followed by stropping with green polish (10,000 grit), leaves a very strong, beyond razor sharp edge. You can see immediately if the edge is sharp enough because any edge faults will be seen in the nature of the cut. A good edge will leave a clear, polished, waxy surface. A poor edge will the dull, hazy, or even streaked.

Properly sharpened, with good even bevels on both sides of the blade, and with occasional stropping during use (just a few strokes per side), a good woodcarving knife will be serviceable for several hours of work before requiring honing.

Your knife has convex bevels. I find stropping has its most dramatic and useful effects on convex and flat ground blades. I sharpen these with only a single bevel on each side. Strop at a shallow angle and use only light pressure. Remember, you are manipulating a very thin piece of metal. It moves. To much pressure, or failure to pick the strop up at the end of the stroke (AWAY from the edge obviously) can Roll over the edge. Of course you can push it back the other way on your next stoke. Too much stropping can round (dull) the edge. Hold edges up to a strong light source. Looks for 'candeling' along the edge. This is small bright spots that show up where there is enough mass (dullness) left along the edge to reflect light.

Stropping does not replace honing. It will improve and strengthen an edge. It will maintain the edge for a long time. It works on rough edges and it works on very fine edges. Honing and stropping take a lot of practice and sensitivity to do well.

I still suggest searching "strop" in the general forum from the last 30 days. There have been several excellent threads discussing strops. One of the reasons I and others have not responded more to your question is because it has been well discussed Very recently. Please find and look at those threads.

Paracelsus, compulsive stropper and very near-sighted person

Oh, I agree with Dr. Lathe, most factory edges are woefully inadequate. Even those from some highly touted companies. But a couple of strokes with a ultrafine ceramic stone and a few strokes on the strop left a perfectly suitable edge. By using the strop frequently, you can avoid the need to use honing stones as frequently.

[This message has been edited by Paracelsus (edited 02-12-2000).]
 
Greg,
Thanbks for the link to HandAmerican. Neat site. Just bought the Leather hone and slip making kit. I'll report how it all comes out. The person I dealt with there was very helpful and may well be joining us on this forum unless I miss my guess.

Chris


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Stay Sharp!
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AKTI Member A000987
 
You guys have been more help than you know! One other thing: for what do I use the fabric side? Does it take compound too? BTW, I only intend to fine hone the edge by stropping.I start with a sharp blade.Thanks again!

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AKTI Member #A000934
"Always just one knife short of perfection!"
 
Paracelsus,

Thanks for the info, much appreciated. I strop every now and then but I have to admit that while it produces fine edges, I know almost squat as to how the whole process works. I use green 'honing' compound and not knowing what it is, chromium oxide, aluminum oxide, or what (no info on the label)? Where did you find 10,000 grit green polish, BTW? This is one aspect of sharpening that is not really clear to me (yet).

One suggestion: since this is a recurring topic, why don't we add stropping FAQs so that members can easily access the information. It doesn't have to be long, I think, or it can also be embedded to Joe Talmadge's Sharpening FAQs. I myself have been gathering as much info on stropping from old posts as I can, and put it in files where I can conveniently study them.

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Reynaert
 
What I've seen for stropping razors is to use no compound, or only a wax/oil (yellow compound) with no grit on the leather side. On the canvas side, use the white (chalk) compound. If you use a very fine (8000 +) hone, you do not need to have a compound on the leather, it will align the microscopic teeth of the edge just fine without it.

This is not to say that compound on a strop is a bad thing for a knife, but the chalk on the canvas, and nothing on the leather, will leave a _very_ sharp, relatively fragile edge, suitable for shaving with. And not just one that will remove hair from your arm, one that will comfortably shave your face.


Stryver
 
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