how to use sand paper to sharpen

110 Dave

110 Dave

Joined
May 6, 2004
Messages
8,151
ok over at buck forum i have told others of how i sharpen at home
some said yuck and some asked more of it
i learned it years ago doing wood working
but have difculity discribeing it folks
well this video shows what i learned and then applied to my knives

http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/165/videos/sandpaper-sharpening/

if any on you try it
please comment on it here


i am very sure it will work on any hardness of steel
and is why i want feed back if some one uses it
on D2 or BG 42 or others so or email me on it ..
i use only auto finish quality wet dry sand paper
you dont need to use glue on it
jest wet the paper very well to stick it on the glass
 
334dave said:
jest wet the paper very well to stick it on the glass
Click to expand...

Hey, that sounds like a good idea... that'd probably be enough to stick the paper to such a sheer surface. :thumbup:

And here I've been gluin' my wet/dry permanently to paint sticks like a sucker. :confused:

Can't view video from here, but I'll have to give it a view sometime from home.
 
that's a very good video and a nice home made sharpening station , the only thing i would add to that is the importance of cleaning off the tool/knife before switching to the next grit , to avoid contaminating fine grit with coarse grit .
 
This is interesting. I LIKE IT!!! But I have a question. Does this only work on flat grinds and how do you keep a consistent bevel?

HAK
RP#354
 
Okay, I've watched the video at last, and that's a pretty spiffy setup. I suppose the use of a glass backing for the abrasives and an angle jig would help prevent the sandpaper from getting cut. When I use paper on paint sticks, I have to do a spine to edge stroke... cut the paper once too often fer my liking!

This could probably made to work with any small, non-recurved blades.
 
C.S. Graves said:
I suppose the use of a glass backing for the abrasives and an angle jig would help prevent the sandpaper from getting cut.

When I use paper on paint sticks, I have to do a spine to edge stroke... cut the paper once too often fer my liking!
Click to expand...

glass is used because it's hard and perfectly flat .

doing a spine to edge stroke shouldn't tear the paper , just don't apply too much pressure , you could also try wrapping the sand paper around a 6"-8" long piece of either 1"x1" or 1"x2" wood to create a sanding "stick"
 
David Martin said:
How many sharpenings does the paper last? DM
Click to expand...

that all depends on :
1. size of the knife/how much of the surface you utilize .
2. how much pressure you apply
3. how many stroke you need to achieve your desired effect .
4. the company/construction of the sandpaper .
 
HAKnPocket said:
This is interesting. I LIKE IT!!! But I have a question. Does this only work on flat grinds and how do you keep a consistent bevel?

HAK
RP#354
Click to expand...


No. You can put the sandpaper on a mouse pad, or better yet, a hard leather strip and convex.

I don't particularly like convex edges myself, but they're easy to do with sandpaper and leather. :)
 
jimnolimit said:
glass is used because it's hard and perfectly flat .

doing a spine to edge stroke shouldn't tear the paper , just don't apply too much pressure , you could also try wrapping the sand paper around a 6"-8" long piece of either 1"x1" or 1"x2" wood to create a sanding "stick"
Click to expand...

Yeah, I'm thinking any imperfections gluing/sticking the sandpaper to wood would get sliced during sharpening. Not such an issue with paper wetted flat to glass.
 
HandAmerican makes (made?) a nice rig that included a 9x3" piece of glass and a wax-based temporary adhesive for the sandpaper. I've actually been thinking about upgrading to something like what's pictured in the video if only to be able to use whole pieces of sandpaper instead of cut or folded strips, but the wax adhesive is a HUGE time saver. You'll never need more than a paper towel to clean it off when you're done because it never actually dries onto either the glass or the paper; it just provides enough friction between paper and glass to do the job. It's also a good guide for how much pressure to use - if you're sliding the paper off the glass, you're pushing too hard.

Also, you only need light pressure on sandpaper - remember, neither the steel nor the glass is going to give. Pushing harder only serves to dislodge the grit from the paper faster, and while you might see a little more metal coming off, you're also going to end up using more paper and changing it more often to get the same results in the same timeframe.
 
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