How to use Super Glue as a finish?

Chiro75

Chiro75

Joined
Feb 4, 1999
Messages
5,786
This question is mainly for Tom Mayo, but anyone else who uses Super Glue as a handle scale finish on wood may feel free to lend some help, too. I used a cotton cloth to spread on the Super Glue (from a tube) in thin layers onto the scales (granadillo wood), but it is left with streaks and rough lines and bumps. What is the step by step method for doing this the right way, or do I just need to sand it out and it will look good?

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My Custom Kydex Sheath pagehttp://www.geocities.com/CollegePark/Lab/1298/knifehome.html
Palmer College of Chiropractic
On Two Wheels
 
I just use the tip of my index finger but I sand between coats. I usually use about 6 coats and after the last coat and fine sanding with 600 grit I lightly, I said lightly, buff with white compound to a high gloss.

The glue on the index finger wears off eventually or you could use acetone.


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george
www.tichbourneknives.com
sales@tichbourneknives.com

 
Scott Slobodian uses those lint-free wipes made for camera lenses as applicators. More coats the better.
I like George's idea....won't run out of fingers!
 
O.K.

How much super glue would I need for a set of average size lacewood scales?
Do you try to rub it in or do you float it on?
Thanks for any help.

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~~TOM~~
 
i thought i explained it really well in the very long email i sent you a while back... here goes.....first and most important...you need to buy a bottle...you can get a Giant bottle for around 20$/// i have the web site out in my shop...will email it to you...think you can get a pint for 23$// i use qtips....get the bulk pack at costco...try to put it on even....the best way to get it even is to put glue on qtip and then apply..but thats too slow for me.. i just squirt it all over the handle and rub it around with the qtip...when its completely covered with super glue i sand it smooth on my belt sander...very dull 400 or maybe a new 600 grit belt....usually i only put one coat...but more would definitely be nicer...my friend that makes pool cues puts 4 coats on...sanding between like george says to do......get the big bottle....it works great for small cracks in super hard wood too...like ebony and desert ironwood.. seals the checks in endgrain ebony so that they totally disappear....one thing i really like about the super hot stuff kind is that it is really thin and soaks down into the wood and gives them a glass finish like ironwood has when it is polished...

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http://www.mayoknives.com




[This message has been edited by tom mayo (edited 16 September 1999).]
 
Quick question for all of you CA junkies out there...what brand of 'superglue' do you use? Does it matter? I've always been a fan of ZAP, but I know that there are others out there (JET, SUPERGLUE, etc...).

Does it make any difference which brand? And how about accelerators? Do they give the same nice results, or do they hose the process? I know that a gentleman who made swordcanes in the area would use ZAP and Quickset to seal cracks and endgrains, but it was usually in places that didn't particularly show. I remember those spots looking a bit dull, even after buffing with tripoli. I was just wondering if a white buff would shine 'em up, or if accelerators should just be avoided...

Thanks!



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It's the SUSPENSE that kills me! --Bugs Bunny
 
Hello,

Does this make the grips more slippery? My hands tend to sweat, especially during strenuous activity anyway, so I'm worried this finish might cause a problem for me.

Thanks,

Dave Fulton
 
I've found that super glue doesn't stick to latex gloves just sguirt it on and smear around with your finger. I also use epoxy in the same manner, plus I use epoxy to recap the toes of my steel toed boots. The guys at work think I stepped in mucous or something.
 
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