How traditional is your sharpening device?

A

Amos Iron Wolf

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Mar 7, 2006
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While we are enjoying good, old fashioned type knives I got to wondering. What does everyone use to sharpen their knives on? Do most here use traditional Arkansas Stones or have many gone over to the diamond hones?

I can see with knives in D2 and like steels that diamond hones might have some advantage.

I have an ulterior motive for this topic I must confess. My stones are getting old, so am I for that matter. I've been thinking more about the modern sharpeners and am curious how others find them to be.

Somewhere around I think I still have an old Lansky system. Thinking about that also got me wondering about something else. I see people here talking about sharpening different blades to different angles. How are you determining and maintaining those sharpening angles? Do you use devices or are you eyeballing and free stoning?

Just thought it might be interesting to see what we all use and how far we carry traditional. Lol, reminds of reading about guys who bought kilns to heat treat their flint and obsidion for the "primitive" art of flint knapping. I find that as funny as reading all about primitive living on websites on the internet. Mind you I have several bookmarked, but I just find the contrast amusing.

But back to the topic. Whatya usin'?
 
DMT Double Diafold. Two compact, inexpensive units give you four grits. Great for camping. Diamond is really the only way to go on D2. It's still a lot of work, though. ;)
 
I too like traditional methods, in general, especially in my woodworking although I often break down and fire up the power tools.

I have some arkansas stones, and I would use them if I could get anything sharp with them. I must confess, I've pretty much gone to my Sharpmaker exclusively. I guess my only consolation is that it doesn't need to be plugged in.

Regarding angles, Sharpmaker gives you two preset angles -- 15 and 20 degrees. I use 20 for all but my S30V knives. It's perfect for a lamo like me.

Great topic!
 
sharpening.jpg

Do these count?
Accumulating sharpening stuff is right up there with knives for me :D
 
I have traditional but since the popularity of the newer Super Steels I've found myself relying more and more on diamond hones.
 
95% of my sharpening is done with a leather strop, sometimes if I let a knife get to dull, stones and ceramic sticks get brought out.
 
I use waterstones and ceramic bench hones. I haven't used my Ark stones in a long time.
 
I use an old arkansas stone and some form of oil. works really well but i'm going to have to get another one since this one is getting pretty well worn. later, ahgar
 
Looks like a little variety and some shared tools too. Thanks for the input gang.

Confederate, would you mind telling us about your stopping technique, what you use?
 
An occassional workout on an old Lansky, and some leather stropping with green compound (whatever that is, but it works. I got a brown stick as a gift at the Oregon show in April, and I touch up my edges with it! It really works. I believe it's from Sal Glesser at Spyderco. Thanks SAL!!
 
I use the medium Arkansas stone followed by a crockstick if I need a shaving sharp edge. On really dull as heck blades its a few passes over the belt grinder followed by a coarse Norton & the fine Norton then to the Medium Arkansas etc.. A lot of work!:eek:
 
I am old school.. I sharpen in circular motions a little on each side freehand by eye(about 18-19 degrees I guess) with light oil on soft Arkansas. Then repeat same with light oil on a hard Arkansas untill hair popping sharp.. Yes even with my Doziers which are all D-2 steel..:cool:
 
I use an Edge Pro Professional which will let you be as precise as you want regarding your angles. Lately, I've been learning how to freehand on Japanese Waterstones; 200 grit, 800 grit and a 4000 grit.

I still get a better edge with the Edge Pro but the 200 grit waterstone will slog of a lot of steel faster if I'm trying the thin out a relief bevel.

Even though I'm a 59 year old fart, I'm too new to this to have ever tried Arkansas oil stones. I don't use oil based paint either:D
 
Personally, I use a strop, arkansas tri-hone, lansky sharpenign system, DMT dimaond hones. And lasnky crock sticks.

Now, what receives the most use. The strop and arkansas stones. A good tri-hone is sufficient for most needs. Its worked for me for over 25 years.
 
I prefer free hand sharpening, it is much more controllable.
My dad taught me when I was 12 how to use a water stone first, then an oil stone to get the final edge. I used to sharpen his wood chisels and plane blades for him. Now, his woodworking days are over.
I find that an oil stone on its own is fine for most carbon steel blades, and for good quality stainless. It avoids nasty scratching on polished blades and enables you to follow the factory grind if you need to. You don't always need to add much oil. Very often, just a touch on the blade will do.

For cheap users - a different approach... I always use diamond hones to get the right edge...one that I can see, then maybe polish this down with a fine grit diamond hone...400 or finer.
Very often, for example on AUS6 or other cheap stainless blades, I do not bother to finish off the edge, but leave it pretty coarse and toothy, so that it cuts nicely, and so that you can tell easily when it starts losing the edge. Sometimes, I use an old worn out diamond hone to finish off.

Sharpening SAKs is a breeze... I just use one of those disposable fine grit nail files that you get from the hardware stores... they are just right for very thin blades like on Swiss Army knives.
 
EZE LAP diamond sharpener for me, I use the 2 1/2" widith X 11 3/8" length. Model 121F (600 Grit) Retail price $59.95 and Model 121SF (1200 Grit) Retail price $59.95. Either of these will produce hair popping results. The more you use them the better they get. These stones work really well and you don't need any lubricant. Clean up is easy rinse them off in good hot water when done and pat dry with a paper towel.
 
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