How well do SAKs hold their edge?

I think they hold their edge fine. I think they use Sandvik steel which is pretty good.

I honestly don't know how well they compare because I only cut stuff with them that knives should cut. I don't go nuts and cut wires and CAT5 cable and other stuff like that. I cut food, wood, paper, and some cardboard.

Now I would have no problem cutting CAT5 cable or other wire that was a little thicker with my Benchmades but I still don't make a habit of it.
 
From sosakonline faq:

* Blades – Stainless chrome molybdenum steel, mixed from carbon, chrome, molybdenum, manganese & silicum.
* Blade Hardening – 1,900 degrees F. (and annealing temperature of 140 degrees). RC 56.
* Wood saw, scissors and nail files – RC 53.
* Screwdrivers, tin openers and awls – RC 52.
* Corkscrew and springs – RC 49.
* Separators – Nickel silver until 1951; Alox since 1951.


It is apparently their own proprietory steel :o They hold their edge quite decently, but dont expect it to be like a supersteel - it just isnt.
Heres a funny test. Darkops vs SAK : http://sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=45&Itemid=35
Serious stuff: Huntsman and Paramilitary: http://sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=62&Itemid=35
Cutting tests / comparision : http://sosakonline.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=51&Itemid=35



Inspira, sosak.
 
My experience with my old soldier has been very good. seems to hold an edge pretty good. go buy several, you need them. later, ahgar
 
No, they arent big or heavy.

P1060280.jpg

Heres mine.
 
inspira said:
From sosakonline faq:
* Blades – Stainless chrome molybdenum steel, mixed from carbon, chrome, molybdenum, manganese & silicum.
* Blade Hardening – 1,900 degrees F. (and annealing temperature of 140 degrees). RC 56.
* Wood saw, scissors and nail files – RC 53.
* Screwdrivers, tin openers and awls – RC 52.
* Corkscrew and springs – RC 49.
* Separators – Nickel silver until 1951; Alox since 1951.
Click to expand...

Here's a bit more info -
QUOTE:
For both blades we use chrome molydenum stainless steel with 0.52% carbon, 15% chromium, 0.5% molydenum, 0.45% manganese and 0.6% silicium. After a sophisticated hardening process at 1040°C and an annealing temperature of 160°C the blades achieve a hardness of RC 56.
*​
The woodsaw, scissors and nail files have a hardness of RC 53, the screwdriver, tin opener and awl a hardness of RC 52, and the corkscrew and springs RC 49.
*​
The metal saw and file, in addition to the special case hardening, are also subjected to a hard chromium plating process so that iron and steel can also be filed und cut.
*​
The separators have been made from aluminium alloy since 1951. This makes the knife lighter and easier to carry in one's pocket. Formerly these separating layers were made of nickel-silver.
UNQUOTE

Taken from (Steelinfo) at www.pizzini.at
and credited as Info by Victorinox

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
UnknownVT said:
For both blades we use chrome molydenum stainless steel with 0.52% carbon, 15% chromium, 0.5% molydenum, 0.45% manganese and 0.6% silicium. After a sophisticated hardening process at 1040°C and an annealing temperature of 160°C the blades achieve a hardness of RC 56.
Click to expand...

That should be tempering temperature, not annealing. Interesting information.

-Cliff
 
The nice thing about Swiss Army Knives is not that they hold a great edge(they don't). It's the fact that they are ground so thin, that they will push cut long after their razor edge is gone. No knife nut should be without at least one SAK, IMHO.
 
I own and use my soldier often I really like it. Its blade is bigger than the normal sak and feels very sturdy in the hand. That being said it wont take the place of my huntsman light which is my lil buddy on campin trips and hunting/fishin trips.
 
If you convex out a Soldier, it'll cut circles around many other knives, and sharpen very quickly. I convexed all three of mine, and they're excellent cutters.
 
Sword and Shield said:
If you convex out a Soldier, it'll cut circles around many other knives, and sharpen very quickly. I convexed all three of mine, and they're excellent cutters.
Click to expand...

One does not need to do a full convexed grind - although that is both attractive and functional.

The main thing is to knock off that hard shoulder between the edge bevel and the blade face.

I do this and make the transition between the blade face and final edge convex - this retains the flat ground and polished finish of the original blade - but puts a zero bevel convexed edge on the kinfe.

My EDC SAK out cuts most knives, and for cutting through things it is scary sharp...........

Please check out this thread with comments from other BFC members-

Convexed Edge

--
Vincent
http://UnknownVT2006.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT2005.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVT.cjb.net/
http://UnknownVincent.cjb.net/
 
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