Recommendation? How would I add a slot to a finished blade - nail nick???

RayseM

RayseM

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Feb 18, 2010
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Looking for help here please. I have a new folder that would be greatly enhanced and made more user friendly with the addition of some opening aid - a nail nick, spydie hole, or something.

Here is the knife -



You can see a nicely polished and deep blade but with the 6 or 7 pull required to open this thing it can be trouble without something other than the polished blade to hold on to.

A crescent shaped slot to follow the curve of the handle???



Here is a link with more info. - https://www.bladeforums.com/threads/this-just-in-from-españa.1618118/

I have a Foredom and a drill press and wonder if I might:

• bore some holes and create a slot as a finger pull
• add some stippling to the blade

How easy might any of that be with 440 steel?

OR - BEST PLAN - send the knife to one of you folks and see if you can add a conventional nail nick after the fact.

If the home made options - what bits or burrs or cutting wheel might I use AND any other words of caution or advice or encouragement.

If the send out option is best - Any Volunteers?? Payment included of course.

I could probably send it back to the maker but not really his problem and I'd rather not risk 2 more trips across the pond.

Thank you very much for any help you might be able to offer.

Ray
 
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They tell me here that I shouldn't recommend that the un anointed try this.
It is true I grew up with a Dremel in my hand.

I say practice until you can do it. Then DO IT on your knife.

Here are two that I did. One is the Opinel (not the Buck).
The other is the Case Trapper.
My Fordum some how spins the mandrel in the disc and cuts the head off the screw of the mandrel. I have never once had this happen on any of three Dremels that I have had.
Pisses me off but there it is.
Here are photos. I start with marking the blade . . . carbide scribe or wax pencil what ever you like.
IMG_3341.jpg
IMG_3340.jpg
IMG_5178.jpg

Plunge straight down in to the blade to get that crisp line then work the area where it ramps down to the bottom of the nick. If that makes sense.
Run it fast. Use a two handed grip on the Dremel. Clamp the knife down to the bench or in a vise. Use magnification. Move slow. Hold your breath while you grind.

Use two hands to grip. Note I am bracing off the vise with a finger reaching over to steady and move the grinder with control. This was a photo for another project but same dif.
IMG_5442.jpg
 
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You can cut a nail nick using a mounted grinding point with either a cylindrical or inverted-conical shape like A-31/32 or A-38/39 shown here:

GroupA2.jpg


A two-hand braced hold to keep it steady will be important for getting a clean result. One slip and you can bugger things up pretty quickly.
 
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I vote for the removable thumb stud.
It's very easy to screw up the nick trying to hand grind them. I'm pretty adept at using rotary tools, and I just screwed up a blade grinding a nick in.
 
Thanks all. This is exactly the type of info I was looking for - how - with what - and a safe option.

I've got the technology and the practical experience to do this kind of detail work. I know without a doubt the element of risk involved. Some practice runs, a steady knife and a steady hand(s) will make it possible now that I have an idea which tool to engage.

I certainly get how quickly I could ruin a perfect blade. The thumb stud idea is worth exploring though I think, would be the least successful visually.

STILL - I won't rush into this. The blade may loosen a bit with use and I will find my "need" resolved without my extra effort. At least now though, I have solid options.

Thanks again.
Ray
 
2 more questions, please -

1) How hard is 440 steel be to cut into? I know - need a high speed BUT could I also use cutting oil?

2) What about the idea of a through slot? Maybe a 3/4" to 1" long crescent x 3/32" or less. Is that crazy? :confused:
If not so crazy - what might I use as a cutter. Bore holes with a drill bit first then connect the dots with some fine files?

I'm good for the extra and tedious work if the results are winners.

Thanks again.

Ray
 
Looks like the blade already has one hole in it. Another would be overkill.
 
Because it is a polished blade and the pull is quite tense - a 6 or a 7 with an extra pull required at the end. Certainly manageable to open, when deliberate and with dry hands - very easy to slip with wet hands or if in a hurry OR if my old fingers start to get more arthritic.

As I wrote - this could ease up with more use but if not - I believe an open assist of some kind will be essential to avoid issues with this very sharp and slippery blade.

I'm not making it up :(

Ray
 
The easiest thing to do would be to use an electric engraving pencil to stipple a grasping area. It will probably look like hell.
 
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