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How would you put on a microbevel?
- Thread starter rc3mil
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 30, 2008
- Messages
- 36,647
A micro bevel is a higher degree bevel than your original profile bevel. It makes for a stronger edge due to more metal being around the point. You are shaping the edge like a razor blade. I make my folders and slipjoints 25 degree inclusive bevel, and a micro bevel of about 30 to 35 inclusive bevel. I did not believe my edge would be sharper until I went through with it and saw awesome results for myself. It put an upward slope to my sharpening skills learning curve.
I had to overcome the question and how to inquiries, and just practice and figure it out on my own. I tend to over research sometimes. You may want to buy a junk knife at a thrift store, or something around the house first, get good results, and then do your good knives. Do not forget to have fun!
I had to overcome the question and how to inquiries, and just practice and figure it out on my own. I tend to over research sometimes. You may want to buy a junk knife at a thrift store, or something around the house first, get good results, and then do your good knives. Do not forget to have fun!
I know you have a dislike for the Sharpmaker, but this is where it really shines. Just grind the edge with a coarse stone at an angle lower than the desired Sharpmaker setting. It doesn't have to be precise, just less. For the 15 degree per side (backbevel) slots on the Sharpmaker, just use an angle between 10 and 14 degrees. For the 20 degree per side slots, use any angle lower than 20 degrees. Then, after the coarse stone, go to the Sharpmaker and follow the direction, but use only the flats of the triangles and don't let the tip slide off.
If you don't have a Sharpmaker, then after your coarse stone, raise the angle a few degrees. Again, exact angle is not that critical, just find one that's repeatable. Alternate strokes until you remove the burr, or get the edge you want if you don't have a burr. If you have a bench stone, raise one end of it a couple of inches off the table for the coarse sharpening, then raise it another half an inch and alternate strokes for the final edge. Hold the knife horizontal and sharpen against the angled stone. For 8 inch bench stones, raise one end about 3 inches for ~20 degree per side angles, then add 1/2 inch for your microbevel, which will be ~23 degrees per side. For 6 inch stones, raise it 2 inches, followed by 1/2 inch increase. Use a magic marker to color the edge and see where you're removing metal from the edge. After doing this for a while, and understanding what's happening, you can skip the raising of the stone part and just lay it flat. FYI, this also works with the Sharpmaker with the stones on the back or front in the bench stone slots.
If you don't have a Sharpmaker, then after your coarse stone, raise the angle a few degrees. Again, exact angle is not that critical, just find one that's repeatable. Alternate strokes until you remove the burr, or get the edge you want if you don't have a burr. If you have a bench stone, raise one end of it a couple of inches off the table for the coarse sharpening, then raise it another half an inch and alternate strokes for the final edge. Hold the knife horizontal and sharpen against the angled stone. For 8 inch bench stones, raise one end about 3 inches for ~20 degree per side angles, then add 1/2 inch for your microbevel, which will be ~23 degrees per side. For 6 inch stones, raise it 2 inches, followed by 1/2 inch increase. Use a magic marker to color the edge and see where you're removing metal from the edge. After doing this for a while, and understanding what's happening, you can skip the raising of the stone part and just lay it flat. FYI, this also works with the Sharpmaker with the stones on the back or front in the bench stone slots.
Jason B.
Knifemaker / Craftsman / Service Provider
- Joined
- Jun 13, 2007
- Messages
- 11,196
You could also just use the EP, use your finest stone and do 1 stroke per side. Then use your polish tapes to further refine it, this should only take a few passes per side. Remember they are microbevels, if their width becomes bigger than say a thick piece of hair its probably to big. When I do micros 99% of the time you can only see them at 100x.