howler question

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proguide

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Mar 26, 2004
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I've had my CT for a year or two now, and it has proved its self to the point where I want another knife from the swamp. Does the Howler have the same differential heat treat as its big brother? I know its been beat to death but how does it handle as a hunting knife. I plan on giving it ALOT of use, from big game to small and everything in the middle.

Thanks
 
I would be interested in this answer also. I seem to recall reading that the smaller knives such as the Howler and Bandicoot are not differentially heat treated. Probably not necessary, given the intended uses.

I have just picked up a used Bandicoot, and can't believe how well designed this knife is. I thought perhaps the Howler would be better for general utility, but I'm re-thinking that. The width of the Bandy plus the finger choil really lets you neck up on it for fine tasks, like whittling, etc. I've heard the Howler's belly makes it a better skinner, but so far, this Bandy has really impressed me.

Anyone with a Howler care to comment? Thanks.
 
I remember Eric saying that the smaller blades are NOT differentially heat treated since the spine of these are not subjected to the same forces as the big choppers.
 
Endorsement to MHAWG. I also remember that statement. You may find the Howler more versatile if your intended use includes hunting chores. I have found the CT/HR the perfect combo for the past 3 years.
 
You guys are correct, the Howler is through hardened (no differential hardening) We have done this because there is really no need to differentially temper such a small knife and this also always us to keep costs down. It would look cool, but we are all about price and performance. This knife has both. :D:D
 
I just received my Howler a few weeks ago, and it is just what you are looking for. I wanted one for the same reasons as you, and I believe it will be perfect. I want a CT next. :D
 
Hi proguide,

As far as the Howler goes as a hunting knife/skinner I could not speak more highly of it. Its got it all, the perfect shape size and holds a great edge.

I haven’t used mine a great deal as yet but from my early observations they are about perfect. I will be using mine a lot more this winter and hope to post some pictures of it in use. So far I’ve skinned and boned out a couple of Kangaroos and couldn’t wish for a better knife to have out in the bush with me.

Here’s a recent picture of mine.

31741621-c3a4-02000182-.jpg


Ian. :D
 
I couldn't agree more! For a good-sized, wide hunting blade the HR rocks. But it's the grip on the Rats that I'm most enthusiastic about. Best damned handle design in the knife business. Not the prettiest, not the most exotic, not the most "tactical" looking... Just the best in-hand feel. What else, in the final analysis, is a handle about - if not the hand?
Still waitin' for that Bog Dog.. :D
 
Eric Isaacson said:
You guys are correct, the Howler is through hardened (no differential hardening) We have done this because there is really no need to differentially temper such a small knife and this also always us to keep costs down. It would look cool, but we are all about price and performance. This knife has both. :D:D
Click to expand...


Does that mean the HR isn't as strong, or can't take the same abuse? I just ordered one cause I want a hunter that size, tough as nails so that I have 1 knife wherever I go. Instead of having to carry different knives for different places. Like carrying my becker 10 and a folder at work, ect. Can it still be pryed with, ect?
 
You can absolutely still pry with it. In fact, if it were differentially tempered, it would not do quite as well with prying because the blade wouldn't be as stiff. Differential tempering makes the bigger knives highly resistant to shock, and less likely to break if bent way out of shape, but for typical prying (no truck leaf springs here--I'm talking about opening a paint can or busting wood apart) thru-hardening makes for a stiffer blade--especially in thinner bladestock.
 
I just look at your old posts and quote you without giving credit before you have time to respond, so it's easy for me too...

:D
 
t1mpani said:
You can absolutely still pry with it. In fact, if it were differentially tempered, it would not do quite as well with prying because the blade wouldn't be as stiff. Differential tempering makes the bigger knives highly resistant to shock, and less likely to break if bent way out of shape, but for typical prying (no truck leaf springs here--I'm talking about opening a paint can or busting wood apart) thru-hardening makes for a stiffer blade--especially in thinner bladestock.
Click to expand...

Ahh that explains it! Many swords are the same way, in tempering as they require to resist shock. Is the HR thin? Which brings up another question. Does thickness in the spine matter when it comes to a tough knife? Or average thickness with superior tempering make the tougher knife?
 
Angelus1781 said:
Is the HR thin?
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No, it is 3/16, but it is thinner than the 1/4" Battle Rat and Camp Tramp.

Angelus1781 said:
Does thickness in the spine matter when it comes to a tough knife? Or average thickness with superior tempering make the tougher knife?
Click to expand...

That's almost impossible to say one way or the other without writing a book. Heat treat is incredibly important, of course. You can have an incredibly thick spine, but if the knife is hollow ground then only the portion of the blade that is above the main grind is going to give you any real strength. You can have a full-height flat grind like the big Cold Steel knives, and all of the prying pressure goes on that very thickest part, which is 5/16" but also has very little surface area contacting the surfaces you're pushing on, putting a lot of pressure on less metal.

The Swamp Rats are thicker than average for their size, but try to keep proportions right to still have useable knives. With the extremely short lever arm you have with a 4.5" Howling Rat blade, I seriously doubt you could break it with your hand alone, especially without having the blade in a vise, or wedged under something that weighs a five hundred pounds. Since that extremely short lever arm also means that it would give you almost no aid in heavy prying anyway, I can't see why this would ever be an issue. You won't break it doing anything that you would ever try to do with the knife, short of putting a three foot pipe on the handle and deciding to break it.
 
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