HR vs. metal strapping?

tknife

tknife

Joined
Mar 18, 1999
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I have a friend in construction, who beats the hell out of his knives. Currently he uses an Emerson Commander for all sorts of things that he probably shouldn't. He trims sheet rock, cuts heavy wire and cable, and this one makes me cringe: slides it under metal strapping and twists it sideways to break it! He said he wanted to get a small sheath knife to use (ABUSE!) and I figured the Howling Rat or Bandi might fit the bill. Anybody use they're Swamp Rat's like this?
 
I've never used a SR like that, but if a EK Commander can do it, the Howler will laugh at it!! :D

Seriously, the HR sounds like a pretty ideal small utility/abuse blade for your friend.
 
I agree I think the HR would fill the bill quite nicely. I haven't used one for that exact purpose but I sure have beat the crap out of mine :D:D
 
Thanks guys. I figured that if they could chop thru cinder blocks, they'd be up for it! I have a HR coming myself, but I'm NOT letting him borrow it!
 
Most heavy wire and cable is made from softer metals as they can easily be cut with wire cutters, one of the Swamp Rats will not have a problem being used to chisel cut through it (just hit it on the back with a mallet). Twisting the blade to break the wire isn't going to do anything either as the metal strapping will go long before a 3/16" piece of hardened tool steel will. I would recommend that the edge be double beveled at 22 degrees (or something close) to enhance the durability and prevent micro chipping.

-Cliff
 
good info Cliffwhat process do you use to double bevel to 22 degrees? Remember reading your review on the HR, but seems the your 'over sharpened' your HR past what your were aiming for, bevel wise. Starting from the factory edge - what steps to take?
Most importantly how to keep both sides even?


thanks for the info

dave
 
All I would suggest is that if any durability problems do occur, which are going to be minor except for extreme cases (which would maul the above mentioned folder), then when sharpening just apply a 22 degree angle.

I picked that angle because it is both very common on jigs and such and it is trivial to estimate by eye. Draw a 90 degree angle and split in half twice to produce 22 degrees. So it is trivial to set a benchstone on a 22 degree angle and just draw down on it like you would on a Sharpmaker.

After many 22 degree sharpening you will want to redo the edge relief which consists of resharpening at ~15 degrees. This is going to be so infrequent that you may even consider sending it back for a touchup on a semi-yearly basis.

-Cliff
 
He's gone through a couple Leatherman's. There are obviously better tools for the job, but I think the HR will be always close at hand, he won't have to worry about opening it, and should stand up to the abuse. This is a person who could actually sharpen away the useable portion of most knives in less than a year. He's gone through several Buck 110's (these seem to be a favorite in his field of work) a couple other folders and multi tools too. He has said the Commander has been the stoutest he has used, but the pivot pin seems to be wearing. I suggested a small sheath knife, and Swamp Rat seemed to come to mind first. At that price point, even if it doesn't last any longer than the others (which I seriously doubt!) he won't be out much more money.
 
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