HT for "Wlelding" steel from Lowes?

tryppyr

tryppyr

Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Messages
3,911
Taking some advice offered by the fine people of this forum, I decided to do a little experimental blade development on some cheap steel from Lowes. I don't really intend to make these into fine knives... but now it occurs to me to wonder if that is even possible.

The first challenge is I don't know what type of steel this is. The only thing on the sticker that even looks close to a steel designation is the code H5. Otherwise, I'm basically clueless.

If the answer is that this steel isn't suitable, that's fine. As I said, I'm just practicing some skills here, and will probably make a few blanks from various unknown steels... I might even make handles for them, just because I enjoy doing that.

- Greg
 
Greg, the steel is most likely 1018. Just mild steel. It does not have enough carbon to harden. Great to practice on and also good for guards and hardware. Won't make a very usable blade but don't hesitate to practice grinds or anything else with it.
 
I practiced with it at first but then decided if I'm going to put hours into this I want something at least useable.
Anthony
 
John is right. the steel from the big box stores is usually A-36,what ever the smelter can put in it and will not harden.Not enough carbon.Get some 1070 or 1080 from Admiral,it's not much more expensive and will make a good blade if you get one you want to keep.
Stan
 
The problem with practicing on non usable steels is that you will not try as hard because its so cheap and easy to just throw away and start over.
 
Thanks for the information. Actually, my intent with this stuff was just to learn some skills. Last night for the first time I used my HF portaband to cut steel. Went very well.

I intentionally cut off a piece roughly the same size as a piece of damascus I'm thinking of buying. But truth be known, I'd rather buy damascus from one of the forum members.

Anyway, I kinda like where the shape of this blade is going, so I may want to transition the work to good steel when I'm done. And I'll do so with a bit more confidence in my ability to use the portband. ;)

- Greg
 
It actually takes a decent finish and looks OK when cold-blued or something similar, when used for guards and stuff. Doesn't resist corrosion worth a hoot, so you need to do something like that to protect it. Sometimes it has weird marks in it, kinda looks like they just heated a bunch of old nuts and bolts and smooshed them together. I have a good size bar you can have for the cost of shipping, it would be enough for a HECKuva lotta guards and practice and such.
 
If its anything like the "welding steel" I get from work (Tractor Supply Co.) its 4046, which, in my experience, can harden fairly well.

According to my "Machinery's Handbook", H5's primary alloy element is Chromium. "The predominant properties are, high hardenability, excellent toughness, and high ductility." Further reading shows that it's easy to work with, easy to shape, when soft, but hardens easily.
 
Greg,
This is what I did. Why?

1. The metal was available RIGHT NOW, and I wanted to start learning how to make a knife RIGHT NOW, so...

2. I didn't know where to get good steel.

3. Heck, I wasn't sure what "good" steel was.

4. I knew that anything I made I would think is the most wonderful and inspired piece of cutlery ever made but would in reality be crude and ugly and I would quickly not want anyone to see.

In retrospect I think the advice of getting some 1070/1080 is good if you know where to get it at a reasonable price. I didn't want to wait and had no illusions that I would be making anything but abominations at the start.

good luck and happy learning.

- Paul
 
Not being one to follow good advice (even my own), I went out yesterday and bought another piece of 1084/15N20 damascus. It's a 10" bar, and I'm planning on cutting two blades from it.... probably a 5.5" and a 4.5". I'll used the welding steel from Lowes as tangs for the two blades. I've already experimented with the welder and learned how to make solid through-and-through welds, so I think I'm ready to begin the project.

I'll wait a week or two to begin the project, and in the meantime fool around with the two blades I've already cut out of the welding steel. They probably will never get finished properly.

- Greg
 
This was printed in the April 1996 edition of PROJECTS IN METAL pg. 44.
It has to do with hardening mild steel. I have not tried it.
"To 5 gal. of water, add: 5lbs. of table salt, 32 oz. of Dawn brand diswashing liquid, and 8 oz of Shaklee Basic 1 cleaning concentrate.
It is claimed this quench will give mild steel a RC hardness of about 43. 43 RC is not as hard as carbon steel knives usually get, but it's harder than if it was left in it's mild steel state.
If you decide to try it, I hope you will post your results.
 
I'm a little curious, why would you spring for expensive pattern-welded steel for some knives, but then turn around and use Lowe's "cheap" steel for others?

Makes a whole lot more sense to just buy quality steel like 1080 that you can make a great knife out of and costs next to nothing, especially when compared to pattern-welded steel.

I understand that you just want to practice, but the fact is that if you end up making a nice practice blade and decide to finish it you aren't going to be able to make a good knife out of the "cheap" steel, ever. If you worked with a known steel it would be of a comparable price to the "cheap" steel at Lowes or Home Depot and you could finish it into a nice usable blade if you decide that you want to. Additionally, the only way you get better at making knives is by making knives, start to finish. That doesn't mean you shouldn't practice one particular part, just keep in mind that if one aspect of your knives looks exceptionally better than all the other aspects, it will stick out like a sore thumb.
 
Destraal,

The truth is that I find it hard to focus my attention on boring projects. Plain cheap steel does not inspire me. I don't mind practicing new skills (like welding and cutting with a portaband), but it's REALLY hard for me to get excited about making the sort of plain jane knives most people make as their first projects.

No offense, but when I see the things most people post as first knives, I just don't understand why they bothered. I just can't see myself using G10 for a handle... ever. I can't see myself making coffin handles... ever. I just won't waste my time making a boring knife, no matter how much it might impress someone else that I took the time to develop my skills and refine my technique... blah, blah, blah.

So, I acknowledge it is good advice... I just won't be following it no matter how many people (including myself) repeat it. I'll spend more money on damascus so I can stay focused and interested until the project is complete.

Call it adult onset ADD, if you like. That's just who I am. Sometimes it's best just to acknowledge my own faults, accept them, and do what it takes to reach a goal despite them.

- Greg
 
Actually 1018 WILL HARDEN when SuperQuenched... It will get to the low to mid 40's RC. Which is decent for a hawk, axe, ok sword, huge chopper...punches, hammers, etc etc. not to good for a slicer and it will need touched up more than one made from a proper blade steel.

Jason
 
I said absolutely nothing about making a boring knife and I certainly don't think you should make boring knives just to please other people. I never made a blade to impress anyone other than myself (and a couple to sell, but they weren't plain either).

So your argument is that pattern-welded steel holds your attention more, despite the fact that making the pattern show up is the last thing you do to the actual blade (obviously then you have the handle to deal with, but that's faster stuff and so I assume less boring)? So for the entire shaping of the blade, you can't tell much of a difference between pattern-welded steel and any other steel, other than some possible minor issues with regards to differing levels of machinability.

Your argument also doesn't explain why the "cheap" steel from Lowes or Home Depot is ok yet the similarly priced steel that is suitable for knives isn't ok for you.

Now I'll be first to admit that it rubs me the wrong way seeing someone new to the hobby using ungodly expensive materials. Why? Well many of us don't have money to burn on mistakes. Some of us do, but we choose to spend it more wisely.
However, that bias doesn't make my previous points any less valid.

I'll try to leave it be now, I don't want to come off like a jerk who's out to get you (although it might be too late for that now).
 
Destraal,

You needn't worry about coming off like a jerk. I'm probably coming off more like that than you are. Hey, I appreciate that you care enough to talk to me. Thanks for that. If I don't take your advice on these matters, don't take it personally. I'm just following my own muse. If it leads me astray, so be it. If I could have saved hundreds and gotten no further astray, I'm fine with that.

Suffice it to say I draw inspiration from the patterns in the steel that I don't draw from blank steel.

- Greg
 
Check junkyards for leaf springs. I just picked up 3 leaf springs with 4 leaves a piece for $30 at my local junk yard.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top