HT, Quench, Health, Ambient Temps, Winter.....Random Concerns !!

[Battle Creek Knives]

This may be to much for some to bare but try to stay with me..Scattered topics but all related to each other in one way or another..

There are many questions dancing through my head with winter approaching and my shop getting colder, with radiant heat lets say It stays around 40+ degrees during winter, with that said....

1. How does this affect HT/Quench? Should shop be brought to room temp 70* before quench?
2. After turning HT off, is it better to leave door open or shut to help preserve element?
3. I have a separate tempering oven with kaowool around it, is this safe if left undisturbed?
4. Are Parks 50 specifications more eco friendly for a closed environment like say canola?

please understand even with canola I ventilate as best I can without lowering room temps to much.. but my most costly concern would be health, and secondly the heating elements in my kiln, my gut says to leave the door open to help heat the room I just ventilated, but I'm also worried they will cool to fast..

I have enough of a learning curve lately with HT, and would like to beat winter to the punch with any tips..

thanks for all your advice !!

 

[Wloch248]

I'll do my best with info that I have read in the past. Anyone else feel free to chime in and correct as needed.

1. As long as your HT oven temp is stable, your oil is heated to the right temp, and you don't take too long between removing the blade and quenching it you should be fine. I remember someone recently saying that the steel won't cool off enough in the 5 seconds between the oven and oil to make a difference. (assuming you aren't in -10 degree weather fully exposed outside in a blizzard, then you may worry)

2. Better to leavethe door shut, the elements will last much longer.

3. Are you asking if the kaowool around the oven is safe? Or that because it is better insulated it has a lower potential to light other stuff on fire? I'll assume the latter. Use common sense. If it is right next to alot of flamable stuff, no. If it is on a steel bench with nothing around it, maybe. Treat it like any other oven.

4. More eco friendly? Doubt it. Keep a fan blowing and the smoke/ fumes shouldn't be a huge issue. It sounds like you already try to ventilate the best you can, just keep doing it no matter the oil type.

Hope this helps. I had a few of the same concerns recently and that is what I remember.

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

Wloch,

I try to follow the 1 second rule and have my quench under my kiln..

and yes I'm wondering if leaving kaowool 'exposed' around my oven is safe, I've heard before its unsafe in a forge without being coated..

 

[jawilder]

I would say to wrap the kaowool in something. Maybe even Duct Tape? Those fibers can still get lose and get in the air.
Jason

 

[DanCo]

Coat that Koawool. It is my understanding that un-coated it provides a health concern.
Dan

 

[thegeek574]

Ever heard of Asbestos? In large amounts, the ceramic wool will do the same thing to your lungs. please coat it with something.

 

[Battle Creek Knives]

Ever heard of Asbestos? In large amounts, the ceramic wool will do the same thing to your lungs. please coat it with something.

had a friend from Quebec, his uncle worked in the asbestos mines for 50yrs, no respirator, protection, zip.. smoked too, matter of fact a had a big chunk of it in his fireplace cause he liked the way it glowed......

he lived to be over 90... died of natural causes

I guess everyone reacts differently to environment.....

I think I'm gonna toss the koawool in a plastic bag for future forge use... I have insulation board I'll rig up instead....

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

The quench tank is best places adjacent to the forge/kiln...not directly under or in front of it. The hot vapor/smoke cloud rising from the quench can occasionally burst into flame when it gets ignited by the forge/kiln. Not really a huge safety risk, but it can be un-nerving when it happens. It can singe your beard, though.

For the best safety and speed in quenching, the tank should be placed 90° from the forge/kiln. You should be able to remove the blade, rotate your body, and quench the blade in one fluid movement....all without moving your feet or taking any steps. This will also move your face and the vapors away from the heat of the forge/kiln. I always take a few practice moves before the actual quench, to make sure things are placed right. Also, any other needed items should be sitting within arms reach - Hot gloves, wooden mallet/swacker and striking ( warp removal) board, twisting/bending tools, quench plates, etc.