HTM Gunhammer TI/Carbon & Kirby Lambert SNAP - Not good guys, not good

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Mar 12, 2014
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So I just got these two knives in, the HTM Darrel Ralph Titanium and Carbon Fiber Gunhammer, as well as the Kirby Lambert SNAP!

Full discosure here: I have not spoken to Darrel or HTM about this since getting it, so it is not a review on their customer service at all. Darrel was very decent and helpful when I spoke to him regarding the potential purchase of the Gunhammer.

First the Gunhammer: I was super excited to get this knife. I love the look of it, I love the way it feels even in my hand. It's a great looking and feeling knife. Unfortunately, all of that excitement ended as soon as I opened it. Let me go back a bit first though. Before ordering it, I did my research and found countless times where there were QC and other issues with HTM knives. They did appear to be, by and large, issues that were supposed to have been corrected. I actually spoke to Darrel himself about my potential purchase and was told that those issues were all in the past and that I would absolutely love my new knife, if I was to buy it. I decided to go for it and, after speaking with the vendor about it, thought I was in for a real treat. Back to me opening it.

I flipped the blade open, and it was nice and smooth, if not a little slow for a knife with a bearing pivot. No worries, I thought, it must just need to be broken in. So I played with it a little bit, got out my benchmade blue tool to adjust the pivot, and that's where the trouble started. I first loosened it off just a hair (probably about 1/16 of a turn) and the blade developed significant play. When closed, it would not center. So i tightened it up a little bit (about 1/8 of a turn) and it got better with respect to blade play, but still not as smooth of an opener as I would expect (comparing to my ZT0561, for example, or even the CRKT/Ken Onion collaboration w/ the IKBS system). I also noticed that, when I went to close the knife, it would not smoothly close all the way. The tip was about 1/4" - 3/8" away from being fully closed, yet the blade developed serious resistance to closing any further. After working it a few times, it did not get better in any appreciable way. Disappointed, I checked the edge itself. It was almost nonexistent near the hilt end, and near the front it was there, but certainly not capable of cutting hair off my arm. Not even close. Finally the lock-up. I took a quick look at the frame lock, and was honestly not sure it was even fully engaged. I tried to close the knife on itself, and it wouldn't do it easily, so I knew the lock must be catching, but I'd call it at less than 5% lock-up. Obviously I can't measure percentage exactly, which is why I'm not saying less, but my point here is that it literally looks like the edge/corner of the frame lock is lined up right against the edge/corner of the locking surface on the blade. Now I'm sure that would break in over time, but this is a $500.00 knife - there should be Zero issues with it when someone receives it. I personally would not carry it with the lock in this condition, even if all the other issues were not there, simply because I feel that it is unsafe and would be very likely to close at the worst possible time. I played with it for another two or three minutes, and decided to put it away before I scratched it (the dealer I got it from has a no hassle return policy, so I wanted to make sure I could return it if I decided I couldn't deal with or fix the issues).

Now on to the Kirby Lambert. Same idea with the feel of the knife. Feels great in my hand, really like the way it looks too. Has good weight but feels nice. Flip it open and it swings open fairly quickly. Not a bad assisted system, maybe not the best but definitely good. Would say that my ZT0350 is a little better though, but not by much. I look at the edge on this one, and it's honestly pathetic. I don't mean that in an insulting way to anyone, but this isn't even reasonable to send out the door. From about 1" from the tip, up to the tip, the edge is so dull I wouldn't call it an edge. The only way it's doing anything even to paper is if you push hard enough that the paper rips. The angle is about a 40 degree angle, on each side. I am just floored that this could go out the door of any knife company. Walmart sells cheap knives that come sharper than this! As you go down from the tip, it does get a *little* better, but certainly not amazing. Right near the pivot, it's good, but not remotely good enough for a knife costing upwards of $200. It will cut paper with that end of the blade though. I figured, maybe I'll keep this one, but I wanted to see how it felt in my pocket, as it is rather thick (not meaning this in a negative way, I just wanted to make sure it was comfortable). I went to slide it in and missed the pocket clip. Tried again and same thing, it just fell into my pocket. I pulled it out and looked at the clip, and it was so mis-shaped that it was under INCREDIBLE tension. I couldn't pull it up with my fingers enough to sneek my jeans under it. I am too scared to even pull the screws because, since it's an aluminum body, I'm worried that the screw threads will just pull out when I get them backed out some. The tip of the clip is literally 1/16" away from the body of the knife - I could barely get my t-shirt under it, but couldn't pull the shirt right under the whole clip because of how tight it was. The lock-up on this knife is good, but it's a liner lock, so that is expected. The liner is beefy, and is one of the few liner locks that I would likely trust my fingers and tendons to. As for blade play, there is definitely noticable blade play from side to side. When I tried to tighten this out, the assisted mechanism no longer functions. It seems that I have the choice of either a little blade play (not much, but I don't accept any blade play from a knife that's going to be in my EDC rotation - it just pisses me off) or no assisted mechanism. Obviously when it's tight enough to have hardly any blade play, but no assist, it is also so tough to get open that you can't flip it open either. It becomes a two handed affair.

Now, a few notes. First, I have NOT contacted HTM about this. I don't want to simply because I do not want the hassle of shipping these knives back to them, waiting a month or two for them to be fixed, and then having to hope they get across the border back to me. It is just extra costs to me, and far, far too much time for me to wait to enjoy over 700 dollars worth of knives. I do believe, based on what the dealer said, and based on what Darrel told me previously and told others in recent threads, that they would fix the issues or replace the knives completely with fully functioning and good quality ones. As I said though, I just cannot wait nor be bothered. I will likely be trying to get my hands on a hinderer or a CRK seb, as they appear to be of amazing quality and I haven't seen a single bad review of them. I knew the gut feeling I had about risking it might be worth listening to.

Another note. The dealer I dealt with is amazing. The guy obviously loves the hobby and cares about his customers. He answered his phone the moment I called to talk about it. Before I could say much more than "I'm not really happy with these knives" he told me we could do two things. One, one of us could send them off to HTM and have them fixed, or two, I could send them back and upon receiving a tracking number for the package, he would issue me a full refund, including my shipping costs. This floored me. I know that there are some other dealers out there who would do a similar thing, but I also know of MANY who would say "tough, send it to HTM and deal with them. not my problem." Not this guy. I do not want to post who it was though, as I don't want him getting any sort of bad reputation regarding the quality of these knives. They are not his, he does not make them, and he only sells them. I can only assume that he did not look them over carefully or at all before sending them out, which is understandable - he shouldn't have to!

Final thing - this is not at all meant to be an attack on HTM in any way. This is simply my honest views on what I have in my hands at this moment. These were purchased as new knives which were supposed to be of the highest quality. No attack meant, no acid viper venom being spit, just an honest review of two knives. Hope I'm not crapping in anyones corn flakes here, I just stated that I would post a review when I got them, and I'm holding myself to that, as much as part of me doesn't want to hit the submit button.:thumbdn:

No bearing race


Horrible bevel/grind job


Zero lock up (this was actually after i had pushed the lock bar rather hard to try to lock it up as far as it could go - when the knife was opened normally the lock up was even less than in this picture. no amount of graphite or anything other than sanding/filing down the locking surfaces would fix this problem)
[EDIT #2] I also noticed that this pic shows another issue i may not have mentioned. The bearings themselves on the carbon fiber side do not completely fill the area they are supposed to. It looks like there is a bearing missing and you can see the gap in this pic. Also you can see how nasty looking the bearings/bearing area looks, and there were actually bits of grit and metal flakes in them!


Blade would only close this far when the pivot was barely tight enough to remove most of the blade play (but not even all of it). At this point the action became very rough and felt like it was grinding somehow/somewhere, though there was zero contact between the blade and the frame of the knife at all, other than on the detent ball.


This is the better side - you can see that there is barely any bevel/edge on this side - the other side is far worse and, at the heal, nonexistant


This is the worse side - you can see the last quarter inch or so has literally ZERO bevel or edge, and from there is gets only marginally better


This is an attempt to show that the edge itself was flat on top and not pointed/sharp - hard to see but i figured i'd include it for completeness


This is the Kirby Lambert SNAP - this nick was on the knife right out of the package. it was more noticable than it looks in the picture, and was large enough that it rubbed on your hand when you felt it. uncomfortable and silly to let a quality knife go out the door with damage. this should have been kept and sold as a blem model, or refinished properly


This is the clip - it's hard to tell by looking at it, but denim or even regular dress pants cannot fit under the tip of the clip. This is how it looks after i gave it a hard push to try to bend it slightly and allow it to be clipped to my pocket. The only way i actually got it clipped was to physically lift on the clip with a pen as i pushed it over my pocket


This is the tip of the SNAP - this is the worst bevel I have ever seen on a knife. To me, this edge reminds me of what I can expect to see on a flat style punch from princess auto. Approximately 80-90 degrees total angle, and a flat spot on top. No amount of effort will let this edge cut anything. The only thing it would do is rip paper. It just felt smooth when rubbed on skin and would not cut in any way. The edge does get better as it goes down towards the pivot, however the actual angle the edge is bevelled at changes drastically throughout the cutting edge. Totally unacceptable.


Slightly better pic of the tip - you can somewhat see what i mean by the bad grind angles from this pic


This is the best pic of the tip - you can clearly see that the angle is maybe even MORE than 90 degrees. I hadn't looked at this pic until now, but this even surprised me by how bad of an angle it is. I knew it was bad, but this really shows it


This pic shows how uneven the bevel of the edge is. the belly is a nice big bevel, however at a bad angle and not sharpened to a point. the heel is smaller, but actually sharp, somewhat. then the tip has a small bevel but the angle is just ridiculous as mentioned a few times above.


Hope these pics show what i'm talking about a little better!
 
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Sorry to hear, but not surprised with HTM. After the forum knife debacle here my interest in them completely dissipated and seeing how despite all the promises nothing has changed I don't see it coming back. Hope they at least get it fixed for you.
 
thanks, but i'm not gonna get it fixed. sadly it's just too much money to have out for a knife i don't have with me. plus, if they let it out like this the first time, who's to say it's going to come back proper anyways... just not worth it to me.

i've got an XM-18 on the way, and that will more than satisfy my "awesome knife urge" for at least a little while :) also got a couple of esee blades coming so i'm gonna be fine, just fine. but it sure is sad that, after all the crap that they've gone through, and after all of the problems they've had, that they STILL can't figure out that it's not cool to ship out a $500 knife with any sort of problems at all.

Personally, if it was my product, I would be EMBARRASSED to know that it went out the way these knives did. Not just willing to fix it, but downright embarrased. People would be getting fired, and I would be personally inspecting every knife for quite some time. I'm just floored that someone who seems to take care and pride in their work would ever consider letting this stuff out of his front door...with his name on it.
 
I am surprised to hear about the Lambert. Ive handled a few at the show I went to and they were top notch all the way through. But I am referring to the high end customs. Freaking amazing.
The DDR knives were gorgeous but each knife on the table seemed to have a slightly different lock up as far as lock bar spring strength.
I did not ask Darrel about that and just asked mostly about how they are finished and how the finishes are achieved.
Of the DDR, Lamberts and XM knives that I handled. Maybe a dozen of each. The Lambert's were the most consistent.
Followed by the DDR and XM knives having way too early, less than 10% lock up. The XM knives had the weakest detents that I have ever felt and none would open without a wrist flick. Very nice quality though.
For the prices I expected better. Quality finish was all there. Function was all over the place.
 
thanks, but i'm not gonna get it fixed. sadly it's just too much money to have out for a knife i don't have with me. plus, if they let it out like this the first time, who's to say it's going to come back proper anyways... just not worth it to me.

i've got an XM-18 on the way, and that will more than satisfy my "awesome knife urge" for at least a little while :) also got a couple of esee blades coming so i'm gonna be fine, just fine. but it sure is sad that, after all the crap that they've gone through, and after all of the problems they've had, that they STILL can't figure out that it's not cool to ship out a $500 knife with any sort of problems at all.

Personally, if it was my product, I would be EMBARRASSED to know that it went out the way these knives did. Not just willing to fix it, but downright embarrased. People would be getting fired, and I would be personally inspecting every knife for quite some time. I'm just floored that someone who seems to take care and pride in their work would ever consider letting this stuff out of his front door...with his name on it.

Really great review man. Well said and to the point. I really thought the HTM team was going to be able to pick up their pieces with this framelock titanium gunhammer, but it seems to be the opposite.
 
One thing I would caution is that, at any kind of place where a large number of people are going to gather and handle knives, I would expect EVEN MORE for each knife to be checked well before it is put out.

But yea, the Lambert, I mean it was alright, but I also realized the reason for the blade play. The washers inside they use are tiny! Provably no more than 3/8" diameter, but look like less than that! Any knife is going to have play then! And regarding the edge, yea, I don't get it. Like I said, Wal-Mart's knives are sharper than these two on some parts, and no part of these knives was what I would consider better than just a Wal-Mart/quick medium grit run. Definitely brutal. Pictures below
 
Ok how the crap do I post pictures? Do I need an account that has other options? Does anyone want to post them for me, I'll email them to you? I don't get it maybe it's cuz I'm using my phone but that doesn't matter on other forums like the 4x4 forums I go on....
 
This is just sad. How does a maker lose all self-respect to continue to let such products into the market?
 
Ok how the crap do I post pictures? Do I need an account that has other options? Does anyone want to post them for me, I'll email them to you? I don't get it maybe it's cuz I'm using my phone but that doesn't matter on other forums like the 4x4 forums I go on....

Posting Pictures - Photobucket

Open a free account at www.photobucket.com (or some other free web-hosting site)

"Upload" pictures from your computer/device to your Photobucket account using Photobucket "browse" button.

In your Photobucket "library" locate a picture you want to post here, and left click on it.

A menu of links will appear to the lower right.

Clicking on the IMG link will do a "copy" of the link.

In a post to this thread, use "paste" to put the IMG link in the post. The picture will then appear to everyone.

Better pictures help get better info.
 
Posting Pictures - Photobucket

Open a free account at www.photobucket.com (or some other free web-hosting site)

"Upload" pictures from your computer/device to your Photobucket account using Photobucket "browse" button.

In your Photobucket "library" locate a picture you want to post here, and left click on it.

A menu of links will appear to the lower right.

Clicking on the IMG link will do a "copy" of the link.

In a post to this thread, use "paste" to put the IMG link in the post. The picture will then appear to everyone.

Better pictures help get better info.

Thanks. Will do that later when i have a few minutes.

Kevin
 
Nice review of both products. I had a Darrel Ralph custom flipper once that was a great knife.
I am grateful when someone actually gives such a report as yours. Hopefully, reports like this will inspire the "maker" to make improvements in his product. I usually buy off of the Exchange, and return requests are not always welcomed.
I hope that you tell us about the detent on that XM-18. My 3.5" spanto was horribly light and dangerously so...blade opened in my pocket.
It seems ridiculous to say so, but I've never had a "bad" $150-range Spyderco, although some have had a sticky lock. And my CRK's...at least twenty or thirty in the last two yrs, have always been smooth and FLAWLESS...and I would expect no less.
Good report, sir.
 
I have read many reviews like this and at some point I think there needs to be some reason interjected.
Problem #1. HTM F/F, you have a paper trail. You did the research. Why not take this up with e man that gave you a guarantee? Early lock up that you don't like? Is there a chance that the lock is sticky? Probably. Did you put a touch of graphite on the lock face? You tinkered with the pivot tension which obviously caused the alignment and play to develop. My suggestion is simple, don't tinker if you are not certain about what you are doing and absolutely don't blame the manufacturer for issues you could have created. Also follow through with Darrel.

Problem #2: what is sharp to you? I agree plenty of companies do sharp well and poorly. Microtech does great edges. Some ZTs come spoon sharp, but it's not edge geometry it's the actual polish on the cutting edge . This is a problem that most knife enthusiasts are happy to fix. All my knives are reprofiled to my specs.

Problem #3. Looking to devalue. Where is the value of a knife? Top quality materials with tight tolerances capable of completing a tremendous amount of work, and or art/design/aesthetic appeal. Maybe I don't get it, but a knife is a tool to me. If this was an investment then yes, I would look for anything to whine about at would impact my future return. Then again if this is investment drive then why not just search out that Tony Bose or Cook Lochsa?! What knifes have perfect flipping action? Boguszewski? That's a $1500-2000 knife. Why would a $500 knife be held to those standards? And for all the CRK fans out there. It's the best tight tolerance production model on the market. No one should be comparing non-CNC driven models against them. It's apples to oranges. All CRK is can for summed up in tight tolerances. The designs are not revolutionary, the materials are not revolutionary, and very little changes. CRK is without a doubt e best at what they do.
 
I'm going to respond to each of your problems down below. I don't mean this in any way to turn into a pissing match or some sort of drama. This is just my own personal experience with these two knives and with speaking to Darrel about the Gunhammer. Photos are being attached above so that you can see what exactly I'm talking about here.

I have read many reviews like this and at some point I think there needs to be some reason interjected.

Problem #1. HTM F/F, you have a paper trail. You did the research. Why not take this up with e man that gave you a guarantee? I explained above that I was not interested in waiting, at a minimum, a month or more to get the knives that I just paid about 600 dollars for. There is NO way that you can justify suggesting that I contact the manufacturer to sent it back when it is BRAND NEW. The point here is that products with total garbage quality should never make it out the front door - I'm quite sure that they would have fixed (or done their best to fix) the knives without question. The issue is that if I spend that kind of money on a knife, I want it in my pocket the day I get it, and I want to be able to enjoy it. I've read reports of people's knives taking upwards of 2-3 months to get back to them, and I've also read reports of people getting knives back from them in the same condition as when they sent them - no problems fixed. Not worth the risk to me, not at all. Early lock up that you don't like? Not early lock-up. Early lock up is maybe 10-25% lockup. This is the two corners of the lock/lock face barely touching. There is almost ZERO contact surface area. Depending on how hard I snap it open, and if I pushed on the lock bar to engage it further, I could sometimes actually just push the blade closed without touching the lock, and it didn't take more than a gentle push - certainly no spine wacking or anything crazy at all Is there a chance that the lock is sticky? Probably. probably not - see previous answer. Photos are attached to the original post, and i'll attach the relevant photos here too! No stickyness at all - not enough engagement to be sticky Did you put a touch of graphite on the lock face? i should not have to put anything on it - i expect a hundred dollar spyderco to need a little graphite, not a 500 dollar semi-custom (or hell, not even a 500 dollar production knife for god's sake! You tinkered with the pivot tension which obviously caused the alignment and play to develop. You're really going to go there? I'm not allowed to "tinker" (read: adjust) the pivot tension on my knife? please don't suggest i do not know what i'm doing - i've owned, modified, and "tinkered" with knives since I was about 8 or 9 years old. I've modified almost every knife I own for better action, smoother locking/unlocking, etc. i most definitely do know what i'm doing. and regardless - the alignment was off and the play was present when I opened the box - my "tinkering" had nothing to do with it. This suggestion of yours really strikes me as a post by someone with a vested interest in the company in question - no regular person would suggest that it's my fault that my 500 dollar knife came with all these issues because I adjusted the pivot tension. please read the sentence I just wrote and reply, telling me if you still think that it's a logical statement to make. also, if a knife cannot have it's pivot tension adjusted by the owner, there's something seriously wrong! it's a simply threaded clamp (read: screw and nut) and there's no reason that loosening it a little, then tightening it a little, would make it permanently ruined or cause permanent issues. it's just not possible unless the pivot is cranked down on so tight that things start to deform, and I was clear in my post by how much things were adjusted, so this is obviously not the case - although I will say that because of the bad design, with no bearing race, the chances of having issues develop due to overtightening by someone who may NOT know what they're doing is far more likely than on a knife like the ZT0561 My suggestion is simple, don't tinker if you are not certain about what you are doing and absolutely don't blame the manufacturer for issues you could have created. Also follow through with Darrel. thanks for the suggestion and if i were new to knives, i'd consider it. since i've been working with knives for over two thirds of my life, i think i'm good ;)

Yes, I did do the research. I found that it would be, at best, risky buying a knife from this company. But I was in love with the design of it and the looks, as well as the fact that quality materials appeared to be used. After speaking with the designer of the knife himself and being reassured that ALL QC issues have been resolved and he is positive I will be extremely happy and impressed by the knife if I decide to go for it, I did decide to go for it.

Problem #2: what is sharp to you? Sharp to me is able to cut paper while holding the edge of the paper with one hand and slicing downwards through the paper. nothing more, nothing less. i don't expect perfection, but even most of my spyderco/benchmade/crkt knives come from the factory with an edge that can almost, or can, shave hair. I agree plenty of companies do sharp well and poorly. Microtech does great edges. Some ZTs come spoon sharp, but it's not edge geometry it's the actual polish on the cutting edge . This is a problem that most knife enthusiasts are happy to fix. All my knives are reprofiled to my specs. so are my knives, but the reason it was an issue for me is that I was not willing to risk sharpening it and then ruining the possibility of being able to return it. if i was able to return it after sharpening it, then i would have done so and tried the knife for a couple of days and tried to either learn to deal with the issues, fix them myself, or maybe they just work themselves out - obviously not all of them can do this, but some certainly may have with enough use. The real point here is simply that on any knife that comes from a factory, i expect at least a certain amount of sharpness and I expect the profile of the edge to be at least relatively even. maybe not perfect, though on a knife of this supposed caliber, perfection is close to expected. i understand that people are human, and people don't always get things dead-on, but look at the photos and tell me if it's reasonable. one end of the GH does not even have an edge on it (near the pivot end of the blade, on only one side). you can actually see that literally no sharpening stone had touched the edge for the last half inch or so away from the pivot on that side. the other side isn't much better. this edge gradually grows to what I would consider to be acceptable, profile wise. the issue on the better part of the edge, however, is that there is still no actual point created by the two bevels. the cutting edge is still flat and does not come to a point like a proper knife should. If you look at the Kirby Lambert Snap photos, you will hopefully be able to see a similar issue on it. this time the tip end of the blade is the worst though. the angle that it was sharpened at changes significantly throughout the length of the edge. Near the tip, the angle is, at best, about a 70-90 degree total angle - this is crazy. it then gradually works it's way down to something that, right at the pivot end of the cutting edge, begins to resemble a proper edge. i would say that the angle becomes correct down at this end, and it was reasonably sharp. if i used only the half inch closest to the pivot, i could cut paper (but not shave) but as soon as i travel further towards the tip, the paper stops being cut, and if i push harder, it simply tears/rips

Problem #3. Looking to devalue. Where is the value of a knife? Top quality materials with tight tolerances capable of completing a tremendous amount of work, and or art/design/aesthetic appeal. Maybe I don't get it, but a knife is a tool to me. If this was an investment then yes, I would look for anything to whine about at would impact my future return. Then again if this is investment drive then why not just search out that Tony Bose or Cook Lochsa?! What knifes have perfect flipping action? Boguszewski? That's a $1500-2000 knife. Why would a $500 knife be held to those standards? And for all the CRK fans out there. It's the best tight tolerance production model on the market. No one should be comparing non-CNC driven models against them. It's apples to oranges. All CRK is can for summed up in tight tolerances. The designs are not revolutionary, the materials are not revolutionary, and very little changes. CRK is without a doubt e best at what they do.
The value of a knife, to me, is in how well it functions AND how well it looks AND how well it's made. I consider most of my Benchmade knives to be of a decent value, personally, simply because most of them are well made knives that function well. most of them look nice enough that i enjoy holding them and looking at them. they certainly aren't up to the level of many other knives, in the looks department, but they surpass many in the function and quality department. No I do not expect a 500 dollar Gunhammer to be of the quality of a 1500-2000 dollar custom knife. But i CERTAINLY do expect it to be of better quality than a 20 dollar Wal-Mart knife (honestly, i have a 20 dollar wal-mart knife that cut better and stayed locked better than this one, both out of the box. This statement is also very telling of the motivations behind this post, and strikes me as related to either vested interest in the company, or blind faith. To compare a 500 dollar Gunhammer to a 1500-2000 Tony Bose is ALSO apples to oranges. And to compare to CRK - sure, CRK may have tighter tolerances, but i certainly can expect similar functionality etc out of a knife of the same price range. If not, then HTM/DDR has ZERO justification in charging 500 dollars for their knife - if it doesn't compare to others in that price range/category then it is being misrepresented. And if you want to compare apples to apples, how about comparing to a ZT knife? i own three of them right now, and would suggest that even the ZT0350 is of higher fit and finish and build quality than the gunhammer. yes the GH has better materials, but if those materials aren't worked properly and to even half decent tolerance, then what's the point? Then when I compare my ZT0561 to the Gunhammer, it's not even close. The bearings in the ZT are captive, meaning i can disassemble it to clean and tune/lube it without having any issues getting things back together easily and quickly. The titanium on the ZT is finished better in my opinion, although they are both close here. The scale side, the Gunhammer has the win there with the carbon fiber, but the feeling of it was a little rough for my liking (not HTM/DDR's fault here - i can accept that this might be by design for better grip). The actual fit and finish of the ZT blows the GH out of the water. The lockup on the ZT is at about 30% out of the box and broke in to about 35-40%. The edge was hair cutting sharp and the bevels nice and even, right out of the box. Zero blade play, out of the box. Blade opened and closed fully and completely both ways, no issues, out of the box. The ZT actually needed nothing out of the box, although I did reprofile the blade very slightly to my liking. No other work was required or even desired. This is how a quality knife should be, and i expect nothing less when i spend 500 dollars!
 
I'm going to respond to each of your problems down below. I don't mean this in any way to turn into a pissing match or some sort of drama. This is just my own personal experience with these two knives and with speaking to Darrel about the Gunhammer. Photos are being attached above so that you can see what exactly I'm talking about here.

You are 100% justified. I would be fuming if I paid the worse half of a grand for these stinkers. The issues are ones I could expect on a $50 or less knife, but no self respecting maker would let these go out. I understand stinkers do slip past QC sometimes, but from what I have seen a large portion of HTM knives have poor F&F. I like the designs, but no bloody way I could buy one with all of the recent fiascos.

Sounds like HTM might need to do some serious employee adjustment before they get into the red.
 
Those pictures are insane. Knives in the $5 jar at a hardware store would have better fit and finish. Both manufacturers should be bending over backwards to make this right, and kick in a free t-shirt or two on top of completely new knives.
 
I'd love to get a knife out off this fiasco, but only if it were checked out by Darrel himself before going out. I don't think I'd consider paying for it at this point, but if the offer was made as a show of good faith to the community.... Lol, not holding out hope. I can't imagine that htm/ddr is very happy with me, but I needed to bring this to the attention to the forum. Based on previous threads, I can't imagine I'll be well received, but then you never know. If they hope to have any customers here who have also read this they may want to chime in at some point! An explanation as to how the hell these made it out the door maybe...I dunno
 
Maybe contact them and ask that they provide a prepaid shipping label to send it in for repair/replacement? That gives them a chance to back up their product and cost you no more cash.
 
Maybe contact them and ask that they provide a prepaid shipping label to send it in for repair/replacement? That gives them a chance to back up their product and cost you no more cash.
When Kershaw wronged me on a repair they sent me a prepaid label to ship my knives back. Any reputable company should pay for shipping if they completely screwed up.
 
Yea I sent it back to the dealer already. Like I've said, whether or not they would be willing to pay shipping to get it back to then and back to be is, really, a moot point. I don't go buy a five hundred dollar know to have to send it to the manufacturer the same day to make it work properly and be even a half decent knife. That's like going to Toyota and buying a brand new tundra, driving it off the lot, around the block, then having the engine blow and saying sure, just go ahead and fix it without any compensation etc. Sure a truck is a lot more money but the idea is the same. If I wanted to get something that would need some fixing I'd have bought a Chinese knockoff and worked it to my liking.

I guess I'm just really pissed the more I think about this crap. I like the look and feel of the gunhammer. I'd love to have one, especially the frame lock ti model, but there is no way I'm ok with paying that kind of money for a knife that I won't see for two months or more!
 
Yea I sent it back to the dealer already. Like I've said, whether or not they would be willing to pay shipping to get it back to then and back to be is, really, a moot point. I don't go buy a five hundred dollar know to have to send it to the manufacturer the same day to make it work properly and be even a half decent knife. That's like going to Toyota and buying a brand new tundra, driving it off the lot, around the block, then having the engine blow and saying sure, just go ahead and fix it without any compensation etc. Sure a truck is a lot more money but the idea is the same. If I wanted to get something that would need some fixing I'd have bought a Chinese knockoff and worked it to my liking.

I guess I'm just really pissed the more I think about this crap. I like the look and feel of the gunhammer. I'd love to have one, especially the frame lock ti model, but there is no way I'm ok with paying that kind of money for a knife that I won't see for two months or more!

I don't blame you one bit for being pissed off. I believe that when a company represents itself to be a maker of high quality products, they should deliver such. When an item reaches a price point that makes it more or less a luxury, then the craftsmanship should be there. Now days a lot of people have to work hard for what they get, and it sucks to get burned on a purchase. I have checked out the HTM knives numerous times, but I've stayed away from them because of experiences like yours.
 
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